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Costume and Costuming: A Brief View

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Joanne B Eicher, Regents Professor Emerita, University of Minnesota, USA

Introduction
Unit Outline
Further Reading
Enrichment Materials

INTRODUCTION

What is this unit about?
This unit focuses on “costume” as a word that means what is worn to act in theater, film, or dance productions or to dress for special events such as Halloween, Mardi Gras, other masquerades, and fancy dress parties. In each of these situations, the costumed individuals project the identity of fictional or fantasy characters. In addition, a costume designer has a specialized profession related to the art and design of costuming.

What will students learn from this unit?
The study of costume has a long history in theater and dance across many cultures for people dressing to perform for an audience as well as dressing for masquerades or other events as an imaginary character. The first lesson concentrates on what distinguishes the three words, clothing, costume, and dress, because this lesson plan separates the use of the word costume from the others. The second lesson focuses on the idea of various types of costume and the third on the profession of being a costumer.

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COURSE OUTLINE

This unit of three lessons is intended for students at first year undergraduate level and above. Assigned readings and discussion questions are included to provide an understanding of the ideas to be discussed in class.

Lesson 1

Core texts to be read before the lesson:

Eicher, Joanne. 2005. "Clothing, Costume, and Dress", A–Z of Fashion, the Berg Fashion Library online, 2005. 

Evenson, Sandra, "Dress as Costume in the Theater and Performing Arts", Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: Volume 10 – Global Perspectives, Eicher, Joanne B. (ed) Berg, 2010.
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/BEWDF/EDch10018 

Blauson, Whitney, "Theatrical Costume", A-Z of Fashion, Berg Fashion Library online, 2005.

Discussion Questions:

  • Why do some scholars want to separate costume from dress and clothing? What are the advantages of this argument? What are the disadvantages?
  • What are the similarities among the three words? What are the differences?
  • Discuss the points of view of the article by Evenson and that by Blauson relating to costuming. How are they similar and different?

Homework:

Select a current TV show or a movie and describe the costuming of two characters in it and how it highlights the identity of each character. How much of the costume is clothing? In addition to clothing, what distinguishes one character from another?

Lesson 2

Core texts to be read before the lesson:

Hecht, Thomas, "Dance Costume", A–Z of Fashion, the Berg Fashion Library online, 2005.

Bethe, Monica, "Performance Dress in Japan", Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Volume 6 – East Asia, Vollmer, John (ed), Berg, 2010. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/BEWDF/EDch6064

Sciama, Lidia, "Snapshot: Carnival", Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Volume 8 – West Europe, Skov, Lise (ed), Berg, 2010. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/BEWDF/EDch8083  

Bruzzi, Stella, "Film and Fashion", A–Z of Fashion, Berg Fashion Library online, 2005.

Discussion Questions:

  • Is there a distinguishing characteristic for dance costume that differs for costume for Carnival in Italy, Japanese performances or costuming for a film?
  • What are some of the reasons that costuming in a film or for the theater can influence fashion? What role does the costumer play in this influence?

Homework:

Select a current film or attend a theater production for a play or dance event. Write a two or three page summary of what you think the costumer intended to convey with the costuming for one of the major actors/dancers and contrast with one of the minor actors/dancers in the performance.

Lesson 3

Core texts to be read before the lesson:

Blausen, Whitney, "Costume Designer", A–Z of Fashion, the Berg Fashion Library online, 2005.

Marion, Jonathan, Ballroom: Culture and Costume in Competitive Dance, Berg, 2008.
DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/9781847887115

Discussion Questions:

  • In the Costume Designer article, the author states that costume design is a twentieth century profession. Discuss what you think happens in costuming characters in other cultures across the world, China and India, for example or some African cultures. Also consider earlier times, costumes in Shakespeare’s plays, for example.
  • Skim through Ballroom by Marion. Discuss whether you think what the dancers wear should qualify as “dress” or “costume.” Why or why not? Discuss why you think that the way ballroom dancers, as skating dancers, also emphasizes gender differences in their outfits?

Homework:

If you were assigned to be a costumer/costumier for a play, how would you go about deciding how to figure out the costumes for the actors or dancers? Would this be a different process for performances that were Western or non-Western? How would you go about deciding how to dress ballroom dancers?

Attend a local play or dance performance, either professional or amateur, and analyze the costuming. Ask to interview the costumer/costumier about his or her ideas for the costuming and write a summary for class discussion.

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FURTHER READING

EBooks in the Berg Fashion Library:

Haynes, Michaele Thurgood, Dressing Up Debutantes: Pageantry and Glitz in Texas, Berg, 1998. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/9780857854063 

Articles in the Berg Fashion Library:

Hecht, Thomas, "Ballet Costume", A–Z of Fashion, the Berg Fashion Library online, 2005.

Glasscock, Jessica, "Striptease", A–Z of Fashion, the Berg Fashion Library online, 2005.

Jarvis, Anthea, "Fancy Dress", A–Z of Fashion, the Berg Fashion Library online, 2005.

Cole, Herbert. (n.d.), "Masquerade, Theater, Dance Costumes", Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: Volume 1 – Africa, Eicher, Joanne B. and Ross, Doran (eds), Berg, 2010. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/BEWDF/EDch1018 

Tselos, Susan, "Creolized Costumes for Rara, Haiti", Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Volume 2 – Latin America and the Caribbean, Scherill, Margot Blum (ed), Berg, 2010. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/BEWDF/EDch2039

Bonds, Alexandra, Chang, Dongshin, Johnson, Elizabeth, "Performance Dress in China and Taiwan", Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Volume 6 – East Asia, Vollmer, John (ed), Berg, 2010.  DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/BEWDF/EDch6025 

Lunning, Frenchy, "Cosplay", Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, Volume 10 – Global Perspectives, Eicher, Joanne B. (ed), Berg, 2010. DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/BEWDF/EDch10024 

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ENRICHMENT MATERIALS

(not available in Berg Fashion Library)

Books

  • Bush, Michael, The King of Style: Dressing Michael Jackson, Insight Editions, 2012.
  • Hansford, Andrew, and Homer, Karen, Dressing Marilyn: How a Hollywood Icon Was Styled by William Travilla, Goodman Books, 2012.
  • Landis, Deborah Nadoolman. Costume Design, Focal Press, 2003.
  • Landis, Deborah Nadoolman. Dressed: a Century of Hollywood Costume Design, Harper Design, 2007.
  • Schweitzer, Marlis, When Broadway was the Runway: Theater, Fashion and American Culture, University of Pennsylvania Press, 2011.


Films and DVDs

  • Warm Bodies, 2013
  • Les Miserables, 2012
  • Anna Karenina, 2012
  • Twilight, 2008, New Moon, 2009, or Breaking Dawn I or II, 2011, 2012
  • Night at the Museum, 2006
  • Pride and Prejudice, 2005
  • Titanic, 1997
  • Edward Scissorhands, 1990
  • Star Wars, 1977
  • To Catch a Thief, 1955
  • Rear Window, 1954
  • Diamonds are a Girls Best Friend, 1953


TV

  • Downton Abbey, 2012-2013
  • Friends, 1994-2004
  • Keeping Up Appearances, 1990-1995
  • East Enders, 1985
  • Cheers, 1982-1983
  • Mary Tyler Moore, 1970-1977
  • I Love Lucy, 1951-1957
  • MTV examples – Madonna, Michael Jackson, Lady Gaga, etc

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