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Sneakers as Fashion: Reclaiming Masculine Adornment

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Fashion is considered as a complex social practicepractice in which challenges to reform male appearances are sometimes made by figures with the powerpower to expect obedience. Men have also used their appearance as a strategy of refusal or disinterest in the dominant culture that surrounds them. Others have been reformers who tried to convince the populace that their model of dress would lead to better social relationships. (McNeil 2009: 15)

Sneakers as a Symbol of Manhood: Wearing Masculinity on Their Feet

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

There is a consensus among dress and fashion scholars that human footwear was not always gendered, but there are different accounts as to when footwear became gender-specific. The distinction between ladies’ shoemakers and men’s shoemakers in the eighteenth century clearly indicates that footwear was gendered.

Sneakers as A Subculture: Emerging From Underground to Upperground

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

It [subculture] has come to signify the twentieth-century category for youth groups who possess some sort of marked style and shared affiliations. Whereas sociologists use the term to describe an infinitely wider array of groups—sport fishermen, West Texas Baptists, or toy train hobbyists—“subculture” is more popularly used to characterize groups of young people. (Clark 2003: 223, footnote 2)

Academic Research on Footwear

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Human beings have been covering their feet and wearing some form of footwear for centuries. While there are countless accounts on who created the first shoes or why/where they were first made, the primary common reason for wearing shoes was to protect feet from an unpleasant or dangerous natural environment. For instance, an American sailor’s shoe in the nineteenth century was made out of hemp cord because it provided traction even when it was wet, and double rubber-walled insulated boots were ma

Introduction: Placing Sneakers within Sociology

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Footwear is a garment characterized by a long history. In prehistoric times, it was a simple piece of wood or leather and was used to protect the foot. Today shoes are more than functional objects. They convey a wide range of meanings associated with fashion, style, personality, sexualitysexuality, gender, and classclass. (Riello 2006: 1)

Conclusion: Future Directions And Possibilities in Footwear Studies

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

I initially came to Japan as a teacher. I wanted to be here because there are great sneakers in Japan. Then friends back home started asking me to buy some pairs that are found only in Japan. I started getting so many orders, and I became so busy that I had to quit my teaching job. I now buy and sell sneakers full-time in Tokyo.

The Sneaker Subculture From Durkheimian Perspectives

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

practicetheory andWhat is the purpose of explaining a subculture from a theoretical viewpoint, such as Durkheim’s? There is no sociologysociology without a theory. A social phenomenon without a theory would be a simple description of what goes on around us. As Mills, C. WrightMills (1959) argues, if theory is not connected to practical research, it remains abstract without any concrete evidence and is therefore meaningless. It has to be able to represent people’s ways of living. Similarly, resear

Fashion Accessory Display

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

settingOne way to show fashion accessories is to make them part of the total look. This provides the shopper with a setting, or background, for those accessories, creating a sense of time, place, and occasion—and a distinctive and memorable style. The difference between a dress or suit carefully fitted on a form and the display of that same garment accessorized with a scarf, jewelry, and a bag slung over the shoulder, along with the right style and color of shoes, is the difference between “just

Punk Style Past and Present

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

leatherbeltshooded sweatshirt (hoodie)craftreconfiguredcolorblackapparelself-identified punkWhat is punk dress and how did it get that way? For some punk style is an obvious reference to green mohawkmohawk hair, a leather jacket, plaid plaidpantspants, and bootscombat bootscombat bootsboots. For others it is an oversized hooded sweatshirt and jeans, clean white shoes, and a wallet accessorychainchain. Some say it is a current caricaturecaricature logosof bandsof a dead movement while others say i

Punk Style Motivations and Explanations

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

There is no simple way to answer the question “why does someone dress in a punk style?” Motivations cannot be entirely quantified, however there are dominant themes that drive many to make stylistic choices toward a punk look. Punk style is a way to express individual identity, as it addresses internal emotions as well as lifestyle choices and position within society. The individual choosing punk dress may be expressing internal feelings as well as trying to find external recognition for his or h

Accessories

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Footwear has always had a place in history and literature. From childhood, we read about gallant heroes in seven-league boots, princesses in glass slippers, Mercury with winged feet, and, of course, the magic ruby slippers that took Dorothy from the Land of Oz back home to Kansas.

“All of Me”: Billie Holiday

Carol Tulloch

Source: The Birth of Cool. Style Narratives of the African Diaspora, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Music is our witness, and our ally. The beat is the confession which recognises changes and conquers time. Then, history becomes a garment we can wear and share, and not a cloak in which to hide; and time becomes a friend.

The Fashion Footwear Consumer

Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs and Tamsin McLaren

Source: Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Business of Shoes, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Consumer behavior is the study of how individuals make decisions about how to spend their available resources, time, money, and effort when purchasing products. This chapter will cover the key concepts underpinning the behavior consumers display when searching for, purchasing, wearing, evaluating, and disposing of footwear. It is important to make the distinction between the customer who is the purchaser of shoes—either an individual or a retailer buyer—and the consumer who is the end user or wea

Footwear Design, Construction, and Production

Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs and Tamsin McLaren

Source: Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Business of Shoes, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Footwear production is costly and time consuming. Historically, shoes would have been made in the country where they were destined to be sold to the end consumer, where footwear “brands” were signs of good quality and durability rather than style statements. However, in recent times the inevitable and unstoppable development of offshore production, speed of change in fashion, and consumer requirements have meant that the location of footwear production has changed dramatically.

The Global Footwear Trade

Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs and Tamsin McLaren

Source: Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Business of Shoes, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Over the past twenty years, the developed world has rapidly increased its consumption of footwear. In order to fulfill Western appetites for more fashion at a cheaper price, this demand led to sourcing further afield to countries in the developing world. Footwear is not a straightforward product to make; it is labor intensive, and where there are large pools of willing workers, its production will thrive. Today’s sourcing strategies coupled with the rapid growth of consumerism through the retail

The Retail and E-Tail Landscape

Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs and Tamsin McLaren

Source: Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Business of Shoes, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In this chapter, key retailers are explored in some of the most significant marketplaces for fashion footwear, identified by the largest numbers of pairs purchased per capita. These markets have been identified as the United States and the UK, as both markets have the highest number of pairs purchased per head (via The World Footwear Yearbook, http://www.worldfootwear.com). Case studies demonstrating the changing face of retail and e-tail are examined, within different product sectors and at diff

Brand Identity and Protection

Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs and Tamsin McLaren

Source: Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Business of Shoes, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Fashion footwear is a complex industry where many variables converge to present brands with challenges that test their ability to become, and remain, credible. It is this credibility that is crucial for brands to survive, not just short term, but long term. And it is this credibility, in the eyes of the consumer, that allows brands to charge far in excess of production costs and overheads, and therefore yield greater profit.

Brand Management

Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs and Tamsin McLaren

Source: Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Business of Shoes, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Successful fashion footwear brands are not born overnight but rather evolve over time as a result of unique product, in-depth consumer research, carefully planned strategies and in many cases by capturing the spirit of the time, often by chance. This chapter explores how brands morph from “fad” brands into truly iconic brands by appealing to many different consumer types simultaneously.

Marketing Communications

Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs and Tamsin McLaren

Source: Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Business of Shoes, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Establishing and maintaining a fashion footwear business, brand, or service requires consideration of various marketing activities and how to blend them together. Although awareness of the customer, the product, pricing, and where the product is sold is essential, it is also important to know how to communicate and promote the brand.

Management Strategies for Retail Growth

Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs and Tamsin McLaren

Source: Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Business of Shoes, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Retailing footwear is a diverse activity that encompasses a variety of elements in addition to selling tangible products. Fashion styles and trends move quickly, and there are fluctuations in consumers’ preferences. The technology to design and deliver product to stores is constantly evolving, and the means of display, communication, and promotion of footwear is now highly sophisticated. In recent years there has been rapid development of online retailing. Previously seen as an option or strategi

Visual Merchandising and Design Concepts for Retail, E-Tail and Wholesale

Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs and Tamsin McLaren

Source: Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Business of Shoes, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Through the exploration of key visual merchandising and design principles, this chapter discusses some of the challenges that are specific to footwear and how these obstacles are overcome through the use of innovative and practical solutions in wholesale, retail, and now e-tail.

La Mode Retrouvée

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Chacune de ses robes m’apparaissait comme une ambiance naturelle, nécessaire, comme la projection d’un aspect particulier de son âme.

Accessories

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

A hat is the accessory worn on top of the head. A hat may fit the head, be pulled down over the eyes, or almost look as if it were just sitting on the top.

Accessories

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: In Fashion, 3rd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The manufacturers of accessories must constantly forecast the changes in cycles of fashion so that their accessories are perfect for new fashions. This includes not only the changes in silhouette but also fabrications and color. The marketing of accessories gained an enormous boost with the entrance of well-known designers’ names into the business. Today, the fame of the accessories designer is as important as the fame of the clothing designer; in many cases, it is the same famous name.

Specialist collections

Elinor Renfrew and Colin Renfrew

Source: Developing a Fashion Collection, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Trends within the area of children’s fashion are subtle, but color, shape, and thematic influences combine to create a niche fashion movement that often reflects mainstream design in fashion and beyond. This is a continually growing market, with the current tendency for consumers to buy new rather than hand-me-down, although the sustainability agenda may change this.

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