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Sneakers as A Subculture: Emerging From Underground to Upperground

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

It [subculture] has come to signify the twentieth-century category for youth groups who possess some sort of marked style and shared affiliations. Whereas sociologists use the term to describe an infinitely wider array of groups—sport fishermen, West Texas Baptists, or toy train hobbyists—“subculture” is more popularly used to characterize groups of young people. (Clark 2003: 223, footnote 2)

Sneakers as a Symbol of Manhood: Wearing Masculinity on Their Feet

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

There is a consensus among dress and fashion scholars that human footwear was not always gendered, but there are different accounts as to when footwear became gender-specific. The distinction between ladies’ shoemakers and men’s shoemakers in the eighteenth century clearly indicates that footwear was gendered.

Sneakers as Fashion: Reclaiming Masculine Adornment

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Fashion is considered as a complex social practicepractice in which challenges to reform male appearances are sometimes made by figures with the powerpower to expect obedience. Men have also used their appearance as a strategy of refusal or disinterest in the dominant culture that surrounds them. Others have been reformers who tried to convince the populace that their model of dress would lead to better social relationships. (McNeil 2009: 15)

Introduction: Placing Sneakers within Sociology

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Footwear is a garment characterized by a long history. In prehistoric times, it was a simple piece of wood or leather and was used to protect the foot. Today shoes are more than functional objects. They convey a wide range of meanings associated with fashion, style, personality, sexualitysexuality, gender, and classclass. (Riello 2006: 1)

The Sneaker Subculture From Durkheimian Perspectives

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

practicetheory andWhat is the purpose of explaining a subculture from a theoretical viewpoint, such as Durkheim’s? There is no sociologysociology without a theory. A social phenomenon without a theory would be a simple description of what goes on around us. As Mills, C. WrightMills (1959) argues, if theory is not connected to practical research, it remains abstract without any concrete evidence and is therefore meaningless. It has to be able to represent people’s ways of living. Similarly, resear

Hip-Hop

Shayla Corinne Black

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Hip-hop is a multifaceted genre of twentieth-century music, whose influence has expanded from the streets to the runway. It is a global phenomenon embraced by millions. Hip-hop began in the Bronx, New York and was forged by black youth as a form of artistic expression. Groups like Run-D.M.C. were iconic with their trademarks: Adidas sneakers, tracksuits, bucket hats, and gold rope chains. The fashion world avidly participated by appropriating the bright colors, athletic wear, loose-fitting garmen

Shoes and Shoemaking

Elizabeth Semmelhack

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Shoemaking in North America dates back to the establishment of the very first colonies. It was one of the trades that the Virginia Company hoped to establish in Jamestown, and one of the early investors in the Virginia Company was the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, the shoemakers’ guild in London. The first mention of shoemakers, or cordwainers as they were known (a term derived from their work with Cordova leather) dates to 1610. Archaeological evidence from Jamestown suggests that the Engli

Sneakers

Susan L. Sokolowski

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

According to some historians, King Henry VIII of England expressed ideas related to an athletic sneaker-type construction in the 1500s. According to folklore, the king was getting a bit overweight, and he decided playing tennis would be a good way to get in shape. But he was not happy with the shoes he had. He ordered his servant to get “syxe paire of shooys with feltys, to pleye in at tennis” (six pairs of shoes with felt bottoms to play tennis in), from the local cobbler (Paquin 1990). Although

Nine: Sportswear

Bradley Quinn

Source: Techno Fashion, 2002, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

For more than a decade, Nike led the industry in both technological innovation and style. The tailored details of Nike sportswear influenced the sportswear collections of established fashion labels and cutting edge designers. Nike pioneered a streamlined, modern look usually associated with minimal fashion, that appealed to fashion-conscious urban dwellers whether they were gym devotees or not. Advanced technology gives Nike garments and shoes ventilation, water repellency and stretchability, mak

Sneakerboy

Rachel Matthews

Source: Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases

Level: Intermediate

Business case

In the creation of his luxury sneaker store, Sneakerboy, Chris Kyvetos has leveraged global distribution channels to upgrade and update the conventional business models for operating a physical retail store. This case study describes the competitive advantage created by Sneakerboy through its innovative combination of digital interactive technologies with physical retail space. It explores the strategic integration of digital technology into a luxury fashion retail sector that is focused on desig

Shoes of Prey—Design Custom-Made Shoes

Caroline Swee Lin Tan

Source: Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases

Level: Introductory

Business case

This case study focuses on Shoes of Prey, a fast-growth online retailer that disrupted the footwear industry in 2009. By 2014, the company reported sales growth rates of approximately 250 percent. The case describes how Shoes of Prey started their fully customizable shoe venture and follows the entrepreneur’s start-up and growth process. The business expanded into the brick-and-mortar environment by establishing a physical presence in an upmarket department store in Australia in 2014 and the Unit

Turning Ocean Plastics into Sustainable Product Innovations

Nina Bürklin

Source: Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases

Level: Intermediate

Business case

The leading sportswear company Adidas and the environmental initiative Parley for the Oceans joined forces in 2014 to tackle the problem of increasing marine pollution caused by plastic waste. The goal of their strategic collaboration was to foster environmental sustainability by raising awareness for the cause and initiating specific activities within their stakeholder network. As part of its corporate social responsibility strategy, Adidas has partnered with the New York-based not-for-profit or

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