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The Basic Bodice

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Shoulder/waistline dart bodiceFitted waist seam bodiceShoulder/waist dart bodiceDart bodiceBodice sloper, basic;When a manufacturer develops a new clothing line, one of the first requirements is a set of foundation patterns (blocks or slopers). These foundation patterns should match the proportion, size, and fit of the target customer. They also provide the designer and manufacturer with a consistent fit, silhouette, ease allowance, armhole size, waistline measurement, and desired length.

The Basic Fitted Skirt

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

A basic fitted two-dart straight skirt is a fitted skirt with side seams parallel to the center of the skirt. The center front and center back are on perfect grain and the hip-level lines are on perfect crossgrain, allowing the area below the hip line to hang straight up and down. This skirt has a fitted waist area in which the excess fabric above the hip line is controlled by waistline darts. This skirt is considered the most important of all skirt drapes because of its versatility in creating m

Torso/Blouse Sloper and Basic Shift Silhouettes

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Torso/blouse sloperThe torso/blouse sloper and basic shift silhouettes have a bust-fitting dart and no waistline seam. The waist area can be slightly fitted with one or two fisheye darts, belted, or drawn in with elastic. The side seams hang slightly away from the body and are parallel to center front. By using the torso/blouse sloper, it can be lengthened to make a shift design. Many styles of pockets, plackets, yokes, necklines, collars, and/or sleeves can be used to create the individual style

Bodice and Blouse Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesBodice and blouse designsThe bodice and blouse designs in this group are kept simple and natural while the fabric is draped with the correct amount of ease and proportion. Projects explore how to release and manipulate the fabric into a design. Each design defines the style and silhouette over the bust, hip, and waist by emphasizing the use of folds, darts, pleats, fullness, empire seams, and halters, and at the same time, not overworking the fabric.

Princess Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesPrincess designsvariations onPrincess designsA princess design has vertical seams that divide the bodice into separate panels. When these seams are sewn together, they take on the same shape as the bodice or blouse, but with vertical seams. Typically, a princess bodice has a close-fitting waist with an unbroken styleline that usually extends from the shoulder or armhole to the waistline. This style almost always crosses over the midpoint of the bustline (apex) a

Dartless Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Dartless designsblouse and shirt silhouettesBodice and blouse designsdartless blouseThe silhouettes within this chapter offer timeless, simple silhouettes that are used in designing blouses, vests, or dresses that do not require the use of a bust-fitting dart. These silhouette shapes can be made short or extended to the length desired, depending upon the design. Various styles may use details such as numerous neckline shapes, collars, yokes, stylelines, tucks, added fullness, and different sleeve

Kimono and Raglan Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The following sleeve variations are used within the different armhole openings for garment designs—the raglan sleeve and the Kimono sleevekimono sleeve. The kimono sleeve is developed in conjunction with the dartless shirt, whereas the raglan sleeve is developed in conjunction with the torso/blouse. These sleeves are used to create a variety of sleeve designs for dresses, blouses, and shirts.

Skirt Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesSkirt designsA skirt is a separate item of clothing starting above, below, or at the natural waistline. Skirt designs vary from basic tailor-made to extreme. The designer may change a skirt style by draping the design close to the body, or by draping in various fullness, gathers, flares, pleats, gores, or godets. The shape, the sweep of the skirt (the amount of width at the hemline), and the appearance at the hem length will depend upon the design, the customer,

Pants

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesPantsbasic two-dart draftTwo-dart pantsPantsAs requested by many professors, the following pages are directions for drafting the most commonly used pant in lieu of draping. This draft is the industry standard and is the easiest method to create correctly fitting pants and use as a guide in creating various designs and pant drapes. The basic pants for woven fabrics are the basic two-dart pant and the jeans pant. From these basics, many other designs can be create

Knit Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesKnit designsThere is a free-spirit attitude in knitwear, which exhibits an effortless fusion of relaxed casual sportswear with modern sophistication. Fashioning knits allows the designer to create looks that offer super-feminine, whimsical design, an element of nostalgia, or a buoyant sporty look.

Jacket Silhouettes and Collar/Lapel Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Lapel designs, jacketsCollar and neckline designsThe jacket is an item of clothing that is worn over other clothing. The focus for jackets is on alternating lengths and volumes, combining with comfortable lines and collars. Some are made in double-breasted or single-breasted manner, while others have no closing and some are closed with a zipper or buttons.

Cowl Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Cowl designsA cowl features deliciously draped necklines or underarm areas that have falling, soft folds. Cowls are draped on the bias, usually in lighter, finer fabrics to enhance a soft, harmonious look. A Bodice and blouse designscowl blousecowl blouse or dress design can be draped subtly or to add imaginative zing to an otherwise low-key garment. When draping a cowl design, the drape should be done in the same fabric weight as the finished design.

Casual Dress Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesCasual dress designsDresses come in many shapes and lengths with a variety of seams, necklines, sleeves, and collars. They are worn for work or play, for day or night, for any occasion, and all year round.

Formal Dress Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Formal dress designsobjectives inFormal dress designsBustier designsEvening dresses are gorgeous in fluid dress-weight fabrics that are beautifully draped and seductive with their perpetual movement. Arrangements of flounces, sunray pleats, layered ruches, bias cuts, and gathers make dresses dance. Designers should be able to incorporate many draping techniques from this chapter for a special evening look for many clients.

Fashion Lexicon: Terms, Icons, History, and Inspiration

Shannon Burns-Tran and Jenny B. Davis

Source: Style Wise. A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Fashioncommunication inIn this chapter you will learn:

Flammability testing and issues specific to children’s products

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The law as a means to prevent flammable wearing apparel dates back to 1953 when the Flammable Fabrics ActFlammable Fabrics Act (FFA) was enacted. This law, together with its rules and regulations, provides the framework within which this prevention effort continues today and is commonly referred to as the Flammability Standard, theFlammability Standard.See, Standard for the Flammability of Textiles (16 CFR Part 1610). Its purpose is twofold. The first is to prevent individuals from wearing clothi

Pattern Fundamentals

Pat Parish

Source: Pattern Cutting. The Architecture of Fashion, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Darts,Blocks,skirt,Blocks,Measurements from the body are used to create flat 2D templates called blocks. These represent the body shape in its simplest form. These blocks are referred to as basic blocks because more developed shapes created by designers and manufacturers can be created over time, and successful shapes can become blocks from which seasonal collections can be developed.

Trousers

Pat Parish

Source: Pattern Cutting. The Architecture of Fashion, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Collar Eton,fundamentals,The idea that women were once ‘not allowed’ to wear trousers seems ridiculous now. Although women began to wear trousers early on in the twentieth century, it was really Yves Saint Laurent who made trousers chic and highly fashionable, along with his reworking of ‘the smoking jacket’. Trousers were the domain of male attire as much as skirts were the domain of female attire. In particular, this gendering of clothing was somewhat erased when jeans were adopted by men and w

Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

A fiber—an extremely fine, hairlike strand almost invisible to the eye—is the smallest element of a fabric. It is also the starting point of a fabric. Fibers can be spun or twisted into continuous threads called yarn, and yarns can be knitted, woven, or bonded into fabrics. Though small and fine, fibers have enormous influence on fashion. They are what give a fabric its color, weight, texture, and durability.

Innerwear, Bodywear, Legwear

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

In the past, the manufacturing and marketing of men's and children's underwear was driven by considerations of practical functionality, but lately, these segments of the apparel industry have also felt the impact of fashion. Through mergers and acquisitions, producers of men's and children's underwear have become divisions of more diversified apparel firms. This trend is discussed later in this chapter.

How Muslim Women Dress in Israel

Oz Almog

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Islamic/Muslim dressIn order to understand fully Muslim female dress in Israel, some basic concepts will be clarified here. Islam, like most other religions, regulates the behavior of its believers.Linda B. Arthur ed., “Introduction,” Religion, Dress and the Body, Oxford and NY: Berg, 1999, p. 1. Like other faiths, its legal code lays down rules regarding the related fields of clothing and sexuality.Steele, Valerie, Fashion and Eroticism, Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Ja

Strategic Marketing in the Digital Age

Wendy K. Bendoni

Source: Social Media For Fashion Marketing. Storytelling in a Digital World, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In this chapter, we will take a closer look at social media marketing’s role in integrated marketing communication strategies, social influence marketing, and affiliate alliances. Through interviews with digital and marketing industry leaders, we will learn the steps involved in the planning stages of a digital strategy and the growth of influencer power. We will also evaluate how brands and retailers approach strategy development, execution, and assessment of their marketing efforts across multi

Fashion and Feminism

Henriette Dahan-Kalev and Shoshana-Rose Marzel

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

civil rightsgenderDuring the French Revolution, dress became an important issue: one of the ways in which revolutionaries’ values were to be obtained and symbolized was through the adoption of class-less styles of clothing, which expressed the ideals of Fraternity, Liberty, and Equality.

Stitch Fundamentals

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The loop is the basic structure of knitting. When a loop is formed and used in a sequence, a knit fabric is created. When a yarn is carried horizontally to create a series of loops, the method of knitting is known as weft knitting (see Chapter 1). Weft structures may be made by hand or by machine. This is the most common method of knitting used for fabric and clothing (Figure 3.1, left). Warp knitting is the method of carrying a yarn in a sequence that requires a vertical movement (Figure 3.1, ri

Sample Development

Lisa Donofrio-Ferrezza and Marilyn Hefferen

Source: Designing a Knitwear Collection. From Inspiration to Finished Garments, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The experience of knitting a sample on a hand-flat knitting machine is an invaluable process for designers to come to understand the principles of sweater construction. The method of hand-knitting on a machine includes increasing and decreasing to shape a garment and partial knitting to shape the shoulder and neckline. Through this experience, designers gain insight and an understanding of how a sweater's structure, styling, and finishing can affect the design. After knitting and constructing a b

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