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Garment Styling

Sandra Keiser, Deborah Vandermar and Myrna B. Garner

Source: Beyond Design. The Synergy of Apparel Product Development, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

“I wish I had invented blue jeans. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity—all I hope for in my clothes.”

Skirts

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

We have come a long way since skirt hems swept the ground and women were not allowed to show an ankle. Until the 1960s, skirt lengths were dictated by a handful of major designers, and women followed their lead. Long, to the knees, or as short as the law would allow, until recently the length of a woman's skirt has always been a major fashion issue.

Skirt Slopers and Patterns

Julie Cole

Source: Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

In this chapter, you create a set of skirt slopers from the two-way stretch hip foundations that were drafted in Chapter 5. Refer to Table 2.1 on p. 16 to see how the hip foundation transforms into a skirt sloper. The “Skirt Sloper” is part of the knit family of slopers in Table 2.2 on p. 17.

Skirts and Pants

Sharon Czachor

Source: Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The following techniques are stitched in both skirts and pants and are organized for sample making and application to garments that follow these directions. Stitching directions for the knit skirt, pants, and stretch woven fabric are included under each category.

Skirts and Pants

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

This section presents measurement, fitting, and alte\ration procedures on the lower torso, legs, skirts, and pants. Use this section as a ready-reference to fitting problems occurring in skirts and pants.

Knit Tops

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Knit skirts have become very popular over the last several years, in part due to increasing production costs and customer acceptance of elastic waistbands. Because styling is usually basic, knit skirts are one of the easiest garments to spec. However, there may be times when more than one method of measurement can be used for a measurement point (see Figure 5.1). As the technician, it is up to you to decide which measurement points are best suited to your garment style.

Woven Skirts

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

A-line, kick-pleat, straight, and wrap are just a few of the types of woven skirt that can be evaluated using the woven skirt spec sheet. Just like measuring a top, there are times when more than one method of measurement can be used for a measurement point. For example, most skirts are measured at both the high and low hip points. If you are measuring a granny skirt with a large amount of shirring at the waist (see Figure 10.1), the high point measurement will be difficult to obtain accurately.

The Art of Skirts

Zoya Nudelman

Source: The Art of Couture Sewing, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In the past, during the large petticoat and long train years, a skirt was draped on a woman ordering a dress. The skirt was made to fit over her hips, and the maker checked the customer’s walking ability while wearing the toile sample. This helped save time and added perfection to the pattern as well as customer satisfaction and comfort.

Linings

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: A Guide to Fashion Sewing, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

By studying the information in this chapter, the designer will be able to:

Men in Skirts

Fruzsina Bekefi

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The male skirt has evolved throughout fashion history. From a traditional form of dress worn in Ancient Greece and Rome, non-bifurcated garments worn by men came to be perceived as a challenge to conventional gender norms in the West. Designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood have used male skirts to interpret masculinity through their designs in the latter half of the twentieth century. In the early twenty-first century, male skirts are gaining traction again.

Véronique Branquinho

Alessandro Esculapio

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Icons of Modernity: Sixties Fashion and Youth Culture

Heike Jenss

Source: Fashioning Memory. Vintage Style and Youth Culture, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

One of the first media reports on mods, under the headline “Faces without Shadows” and published in Town Magazine in September 1962, provides insight into the consumer practices of these youths (see partial reprint in Rawlings 2000: 42–7). The article revolves around the fifteen-year-old Feld, MarkMark Feld (later, Marc Bolan of the band T-Rex) and his twenty-year-old friends Sugar, PeterPeter Sugar and Simmonds, MichaelMichael Simmonds living in the London neighborhood Stoke Newington. They desc

Wendy Dagworthy

Michelle Labrague

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Donna Karan

Sandra J. Ley

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Zandra Rhodes, Spring/Summer 1984

Veronica Maldonado

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Rhodes’s spring/summer 1984 collection made its debut in London’s Ritz Carlton hotel. Having studied textiles before designing fashion, Rhodes’s garments utilize fabric with a high degree of detail and craftsmanship. This collection was no exception, with dresses made of embroidered chiffon, metallic sequined ensembles, and dresses encrusted with hanging pearls and crystals, all in pastel color schemes accented with blazes of magenta and deep cerulean. While a few typical 1980s body-conscious, sh

Grading the Basic Pattern Blocks

Kathy K. Mullet

Source: Concepts of Pattern Grading. Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading, 3rd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

How to grade the basic block patterns is the most important skill in pattern grading. Because flat patternmaking is based on the use and manipulation of the basic sloper to create other apparel designs, learning to grade the basic block patterns will enable the designer to grade any other design that he or she creates. Learning where the grade is distributed in the basic pattern is imperative to grading other designs. The principles and concepts learned in this chapter will be applied in all of t

Design Variations and Effects of Grading on Garment Style

Kathy K. Mullet

Source: Concepts of Pattern Grading. Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading, 3rd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

By this point the reader should be familiar with the grade rules necessary to grade basic garment designs and how a grade is distributed through a pattern. A solid foundation in patternmaking is essential for a pattern grader. It is possible: if a patternmaker can grade a basic sloper, then he or she would be able to develop a garment pattern of any size by using a sloper of the selected size. This is the basic principle by which a patternmaker can use a computer-assisted drawing (CAD) system to

Grading with multiple x,y Axes

Kathy K. Mullet

Source: Concepts of Pattern Grading. Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading, 3rd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Grading manually or by computer requires the movement of cardinal points in x and y directions on a Cartesian graph. The Cartesian graph was introduced in Chapter 3, where a single set of x,y axes was discussed. The procedure for moving the pattern along the axes is illustrated in Chapter 3, and grading examples of the basic blocks and other basic styles are given in Chapters 5, 6, and 7.

Grading from Garment Specifications

Kathy K. Mullet

Source: Concepts of Pattern Grading. Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading, 3rd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

As explained in the Business of Fashion (Burns, Mullet, & Bryant, 2011), an apparel line can be created and produced in many different ways. Many retailers design their own private labels and store brands but hire a contractor to manufacture the goods. The retailers have product development teams who create the apparel line for their target customers and develop garment specifications. The garment specifications are then provided to the contractor, who sources the goods, develops the pattern, gra

Pierre Balmain

Daphne Stylianou

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

The Sixties and Seventies: Style Tribes Emerge 1960–1980

Phyllis G. Tortora and Sara B. Marcketti

Source: Survey of Historic Costume, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The years that encompassed the Vietnam conflict were marked by social upheaval and turmoil in the United States. Opposition to the war among the young, continuing efforts to right the wrongs of segregation and racial discrimination, the rise of feminism, and the budding environmental movement all contributed to a period of tumult that was clearly reflected in the fashions of the period.

The Sixties and Seventies: Style Tribes Emerge, 1960–1980

Phyllis G. Tortora and Sara B. Marcketti

Source: Survey of Historic Costume. Student Study Guide, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

After studying this chapter, you will be able to:

Harriet Selling

Tory Turk

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Givenchy Couture, Fall/Winter 1988

Aimee Williams

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The year 1988 marked major events for Givenchy. In June, French conglomerate Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessey (LVMH) acquired Givenchy’s couture line. Hubert de Givenchy received his Lifetime Achievement award in October. The fall/winter collection’s focal points were texture and color. Rich greens, purples, and crimson saturated fluid fabrics like satin, velvet, and silk, with matching dyed mink, beaver, and fox coats and stoles. Large dyed feathers made an impact in evening wear, affixed to floor-l

Basic Dress Foundation

Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Source: Draping for Apparel Design, 3rd Edition, 2013, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The dress is draped to fit the dimensions of the dress form or model, and bridges hollow areas between the bust, buttocks, and shoulder blades. Ease is added for comfortable movement without the appearance of stress. The sleeve's center grain should hang slightly forward of the front side seam, and in perfect alignment with a model's stance. The skirt hangs straight from the widest part of the hip and the hem is parallel to the floor. A number of darts control the fit of the garment by taking up

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