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Dartless Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Dartless designsblouse and shirt silhouettesBodice and blouse designsdartless blouseThe silhouettes within this chapter offer timeless, simple silhouettes that are used in designing blouses, vests, or dresses that do not require the use of a bust-fitting dart. These silhouette shapes can be made short or extended to the length desired, depending upon the design. Various styles may use details such as numerous neckline shapes, collars, yokes, stylelines, tucks, added fullness, and different sleeve

Image Consulting

Shannon Burns-Tran and Jenny B. Davis

Source: Style Wise. A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Image consultingImage consultantIn this chapter you will learn:

Innerwear, Bodywear, Legwear

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

In the past, the manufacturing and marketing of men's and children's underwear was driven by considerations of practical functionality, but lately, these segments of the apparel industry have also felt the impact of fashion. Through mergers and acquisitions, producers of men's and children's underwear have become divisions of more diversified apparel firms. This trend is discussed later in this chapter.

Global Women's Apparel

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Children's apparel,history of,For thousands of years, people made their own clothes, often even producing the raw materials and converting them into textiles with which they could sew. Until the mass manufacturing of clothing began, sewing was considered women's work, except for the clothing of the wealthy man, who wore “bespoke” handmade garments from a male tailor who specialized in men's high-fashion apparel.

Defining the Customer

Linda Tain

Source: Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers. Fourth Edition, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The importance of focusing on a specific market and customer is directly linked to the job search process. Each clothing company has a reputation for a particular kind of clothing. This is not to say a company cannot make more than one product. Those that have divisions or licensees offer a variety of merchandise. Some companies have diffusion or secondary lines that capture “the look” the designer is known for while serving a different price point and category. For example, Ralph LaurenRalph Lau

The Birth of Paris Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Le travail des modes est un art: art chéri, triomphant, qui dans ce siècle, a reçu des honneurs, des distinctions. Cet art entre dans le palais des Rois, [et] y reçoit un accueil flatteur.

Liberty of Dress

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Nulle personne de l’un ou de l’autre sexe ne pourra contraindre aucun citoyen ni citoyenne à se vêtir d’une manière particulière, chacun étant libre de porter tel vêtement et ajustement de son sexe que bon lui semblera, sous peine d’être considéré et traité comme suspect, et poursuivi comme perturbateur du repos public.

Fashion in Balzac’s Paris

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

La toilette est l’expression de la société.

Fashioning the Parisienne

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

J’ai sous les yeux une série de gravures de mode. Ces costumes presentent un charme d’une nature double, artistique et historique.

The Theater of Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Nous savons donc beaucoup de gré à mademoiselle Nathalie des sacrifices qu’elle fait pour ses costumes; de beaux habits sur de jolies femmes, rien n’est plus charmant.

The Private Life of Paris

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Dans ces sphères élevés le role de la femme est tout de charme et de seduction. Elle n’a d’autres devoirs à remplir que ceux qui lui sont imposés sous le nom des devoirs de société.

La Mode Retrouvée

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Chacune de ses robes m’apparaissait comme une ambiance naturelle, nécessaire, comme la projection d’un aspect particulier de son âme.

Chanel and Her Rivals

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Sandwiched between two world wars, between Poiret’s harem and Dior’s New Look, two women dominated the field of haute couture—Schiaparelli and Chanel.

Fashion under the Occupation

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The house of Jacques Heim is no longer a Jewish house.

Ups and Downs of Paris Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Nous sortions d’une époque de guerre, d’uniformes, de femmessoldats aux carrures de boxeurs. Je dessinai des femmes-fleurs, épaules douces, bustes épanouis, tailles fines comme lianes et jupes larges comme corolles.ChristianDior, Christian Dior et moi (Paris: Amiot-Domont, 1956), p. 35. Translation in text by Valerie Steele.

Twelve: Cobranding Fashion for the Masses: Topshop/Topman

Joseph H. Hancock

Source: Brand Story. Cases and Explorations in Fashion Branding, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Celebrity collaborations are global and far-reaching. Great Britain’s version of UNIQLO and H&M is Topshop/Topman. But Topshop/ Topman has done things a little differently by taking the discount model and giving it a little more panache and style. This retailer has branded itself as the complete one-stop shop for one’s entire wardrobe, hair, makeup, and even eyebrows.

Dolce and Gabbana

Rio Ali

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Victor Victoria

Katy Conover

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Capes and Cloaks

Emma Davenport

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

A cape or cloak is a layer of fabric that wraps around the body for warmth and protection and is with or without sleeves. While men have historically worn both as a military garment, they became popular as womenswear in the late 1800s. By the early 1900s, they had fallen out of fashion, replaced by a wider range of coat styles. On the catwalk, both are associated with adventure and intrigue, making them more of a romantic accessory than a daily necessity. While designers like Yves Saint Laurent a

Women’s Blazers and Jackets of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s

Tracy Jennings

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Women’s blazer and jacket styling in the West went through a number of iterations during the latter decades of the twentieth century. These fashion changes were often a result of prevailing economic, social, and technological conditions. The 1970s gave rise to disco. A booming 1980s economy was reflected in the exaggerated shoulders of the power suit. The grunge movement countered this fashion excess. An individualistic philosophy took hold in the mid-1990s, with consumers no longer feeling compe

Yves Saint Laurent

Casey Mackenzie Johnson

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Tomasz Starzewski

Nanna Marie Lund

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Jazz Style on the Catwalk, 1970s–2000s

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

From 1970 to 2000, the influence of jazz culture on the women’s catwalk is pinpointed by the confluence of masculine and feminine details. Designers, during the three decades, interpreted the tuxedo and double-breasted suit that were standardized uniforms of early jazz musicians. Particularly for African American performers, these formal garments bolstered access to mainstream culture, social and economic equality, celebrity, and musical distinction. These utilities are paramount to its exhibitio

Hanae Mori

Shari Sims

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Céline

Laura Snelgrove

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

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