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The Black Prince of Elegance

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Eternelle superiorité du Dandy.

John Galliano, Fall/Winter 1994–1995

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

In 1990, John Galliano moved from London to Paris. His early years in Paris are described as an ebb and flow, mostly determined by financial backing or the lack thereof. Cycles of decline and regrowth have since characterized the public perception of Galliano. After forgoing the previous season due to lack of funds, Galliano’s spring/summer 1994 collection was presented in the Louvre’s Cour Carrée to critical acclaim. In March 1994, pieces from the collection were celebrated in a Vogue editorial

Valentino

Lauren Bowes

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Black

Emma Davenport

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Historically associated with cultural symbols of sorrow, experience, drama, and abstinence, the color black has frequently been worn since the fourteenth century to mark out the wearer from others in a variety of social and economic ways. On the catwalk, black has been used by a variety of designers including John Rocha, Yves Saint Laurent, Rei Kawakubo, and Romeo Gigli. Since the 1970s, black has often been worn in the Western world to challenge and subvert cultural values. Yet, by the end of th

Sonja Nuttall

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Versace, Fall/Winter 1997 Couture

Tessa Maffucci

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

In July 1997, Gianni Versace presented his final couture collection at the Ritz Hotel in Paris just days before he was murdered. The theme of his final show seemed eerily prescient. Many of the models were dressed in black and several of the pieces were adorned with the motif of a Byzantine cross. Even a wedding look, worn by Naomi Campbell, hinted at feelings of the occult. Yet this final haute couture collection was a continuation of the subjects and details he had explored throughout his entir

Sonia Rykiel, Spring/Summer 1983

Emily M. Orr

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Sonia Rykiel’s collection of spring/summer 1983 expressed great flamboyance and fun in a range of body-conscious silhouettes. Pastel colors, soft ties along necklines, floral prints, and white pantyhose and gloves set tones of soft femininity. “Pure Sonia Rykiel” was best shown off through “long knitted cardigans with flounced ruffle knit skirts,” along with a number of separates in signature primary colored stripes. Theatricality reigned as models danced down the runway, wore life preservers, an

Coco Chanel

Aimee Scott

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Yohji Yamamoto

Vanessa Semmens

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

High-End Rendering Techniques

Bina Abling

Source: Fashion Sketchbook, 6th Edition, 2012, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Ruffles are sewn in a strip or band of fabric gathered into a bunch of folds that are held in place by a seam. The opposite side is the hemline of the ruffle. It rolls, curls, and pops with the drape of the ruffle depending on its direction—up, down, or sideways. The difference between a ruffle and a flounce is that a flounce does not have gathers.

Yohji Yamamoto

Bonnie English

Source: Japanese Fashion Designers. The Work and Influence of Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Yamamoto and Kawakubo brought the beauty of poverty to the most glamorous stage of the world—the catwalks of Paris. In their 1981 joint collection, they paraded garments which symbolized neediness, destitution and hardship—clothing that appeared to have been picked up from rag-bags. They were entirely black in colour and irregular in shape, with oddly positioned pockets and fastenings. Their size appeared voluminous, as if the space between the external garment and the body had been exaggerated,

The Black Leather Jacket

Marilyn DeLong, Kelly Gage, Juyeon Park and Monica Sklar

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

In the United States, the black leather jacket has been worn throughout much of the twentieth century. During World Wars I and II it was worn mostly for its functional and protective properties, for example, by pilots, who wore the leather bomber jacket. When the leather jacket became the choice of heroic wartime figures such as General Patton in World War II, the details of the jacket were not yet strictly defined.

Little Black Dress

Liz Gessner

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The little black dress has long been a star of page and screen, its ability to convey meaning a powerful tool. Edith Wharton’s Ellen Olenska in The Age of Innocence wore black and shocked New York’s high society when she decided to get a divorce. Majorie Morningstar, the eponymous heroine of Herman Wouk’s novel, wore black, as did Mrs. Danvers of Rebecca. Jeanne Moreau was an image of perfection in her Chanel little black dress, chignon, and pearls in Louis Malle’s The Lovers. But in The Bride Wo

Black and New Zealand Dress

Bronwyn Labrum

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The color black features in New Zealand dress in distinctive ways that are the product of the nation’s particular history and culture. It is frequently evoked as New Zealand’s national color, primarily because of its lengthy association with the game of rugby union and the uniform of other key sporting codes. More recently, the supposed affinity between this hue and the work of leading fashion designers has cemented the association. The color black has connections across other groups within New Z

Cyberpunk

Sandra J. Ley

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

“Cyberpunk” refers to a subgenre of postmodern science-fiction literature set in a dystopian near-future in which alienated countercultural antiheroes struggle to survive and reclaim power in a society dominated by technology and mega-corporations. The term originated from the title of a story written in 1982 by Bruce Bethke, who combined the term “cybernetics,” the science of replacing human functions with computerized ones, and “punk,” the nihilistic counterculture youth movement that originate

Dressing the Body in Bariai

Naomi M. McPherson

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The name Bariai defines a linguistic and cultural group of about three thousand people (in 2005) who live in a dozen villages along a part of the north coast of West New Britain Province, Papua New Guinea. Concepts of the body and ceremonial body wear, in particular interrelated ceremonies for the firstborn child and for mourning, are crucial to understanding how Bariai communicate culturally meaningful messages about self, status, and the cycle of life and death that describes their worldview. T

Subcultural Dress

David Muggleton and Dunja Brill

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

A subculture can be defined as a group with particular shared cultural features that distinguish it clearly from other subcultures and both the specific milieu (parent culture) and wider society (dominant culture) from which it emerges. The definition of culture on which this notion of a subculture is based is borrowed from anthropology and is taken to mean a whole way of life of a society or particular section thereof, depending on the level of analysis. A subculture can therefore be seen as a d

Mourning Dress

Lou Taylor

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

At royal funerals, the hearse was accompanied for burial by a vast procession of representatives of the nation’s power: the bereaved family, the aristocracy, military, church, and merchants—their mourning dress carefully coded to indicate their gender and social rank. The highest in the land, both men and women, wore the longest mourning trains and hoods in expensive dull black wool, with black or white crape or linen trimmings. Lengths of mourning and details of the requisite dress followed stri

Wearing Black

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body, 2004, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Categories of Unconventional

Samantha Holland

Source: Alternative Femininities. Body, Age and Identity, 2004, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

I have always felt that I was different, you know. I never ever fitted into those patterns, the proper girl pattern … it’s like a paper pattern, I see it in my mind, there are particular lines you have to stay in, and you end up making just this very particular outfit … maybe there are three choices in the packet but they’re all dead similar

Peeking Under the Black Shirt: Italian Fascism’s Disembodied Bodies

Simonetta Falasca–Zamponi

Source: Fashioning the Body Politic. Dress, Gender, Citizenship, 2002, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In 1914 Giacomo Balla, one of the central participants of the Futurist artistic movement, proposed the creation of a Futurist suit. Described as anti-neutral in a manifesto issued on 11 September the suit, with the colours of the Italian flag – red, white and green – was supposed to counter the notorious lassitude of Italians and instead incite them to an active life of high energy.For the manifesto, see Crispolti (1987). The Futurist suit represented a sign of the new, a solicitation to fantasy

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