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Introduction

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Exploring contemporary fashion imagery shows that the mythical or stereotypical connotations of tweeds form a useful starting point for a deeper investigation into their history. For example, an advertisementsadvertisement in Vogue magazinesVogue for Lauren, RalphRalph Lauren’s autumn/winter 2012 womenswear collection featured outfits that were strongly influenced by British country house partiescountry clothing and 1920s fashion, including fitted jackets and jodhpurs in tweed, worn with “mannish

Menswear Retail and Trends

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Retailtrend services by Retail – referring to the broader concept of the commercial activity of selling and buying – is one of the largest sectors to use trend services. Trend data and information can be used in numerous ways and in various sectors of menswear retail. For example, it can be used in the design of the actual product, if the retailer has its own brand, or it can be used in buying as an investment guide for the next season. Merchandisers work closely with buyers and with designers in

Working with logistics and transportation providers

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Reliable transportation is important not only for the protection of goods in transit but also to protect the “bottom line” of wholesalers and importers. This is because some retailers impose severe penalties on a seller who delivers late or otherwise causes a shipment to be considered a misdelivery. This can occur for several reasons, such as that a delivery was made to the wrong store location, or that the merchandise received was in the wrong color, style, size, or was otherwise nonconforming.

Today’s Buying Environment

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Retailing consists of all the business activities involved in the selling of goods and services to the ultimate consumers. Retailing, however, does not always require a store. Catalog sales, vending machines, e-commerce, and mall kiosks all fit within the scope of retailing. No matter where retailing occurs, however, someone must perform the buying function. Buying is the business activity that involves selecting and purchasing products to satisfy the wants and needs of consumers. Buying involves

Buying for Different Types of Stores

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

buying,different types of products,buying,at different retail formats,Almost all the duties that are described in the last chapter are performed by a buyer at any type of retail store—no matter what products are sold. As you start to plan your career in retail buying, one of your first decisions should be to determine the types of merchandise that would interest you the most. Are you more interested insoft lines,soft lines orhard lines,hard lines? Soft lines are typically the apparel and accessor

Developing Assortment Plans

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Buyers want to have enough products to meet customer demand without having to take markdowns because of having excess inventory. Maintaining such a balanced inventory requires skill and experience and takes considerable planning. As a buyer, you must prepare a detailed assortment plan for each item that you will be purchasing. You must also work within the framework established by your merchandise plan because quantity purchases for all items of merchandise must not exceed your dollar plan. Compr

Introduction

M. Angela Jansen and Jennifer Craik

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

fashiondiscourselegacyAbby Lillethun, Linda Welters, and Joanne Eicher (2012: 76) argue in their article (Re)Defining Fashion that socialSocial socialDarwinismDarwinism, in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, is at the origin of the embedding of perceived ownershipownership of fashion in Western Europeancultureurbanculturewesterncultureculture. Social Darwinism’s paradigm, they argue, included a hierarchical construct of human typologies shaped by Westerners, which, therefore, positione

Tastemakers—Hunt for the Incipient Taste

Jenny Lantz

Source: The Trendmakers. Behind the Scenes of the Global Fashion Industry, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The discussion about trends has been sinking to a lower, very public level. Sofi Fahrman’sFahrman is a Swedish fashion journalist who writes about fashion in the Swedish tabloid Aftonbladet. fashion magazine writes about trends. I would never humiliate myself and write about stuff like trends. Fashion intellectuals don’t do trends. I only work with trends when I have advertising clients.

Afterword: Fashion’s Fallacy

Sandra Niessen

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Employing a play on the term ‘Orientalism’, Sandra Niessen argues that fashion studies have been knee-capped by the lack of a sanguine theoretical lens that can dispassionately interrogate the fashion impulse. Instead, she argues, fashion theory has been co-opted by the assumptions and ideologies that underpin the phenomenon of fashion. Niessen argues that the dichotomy between fashion (= Western) and non-fashion (= Non-Western) is a ‘mystification’ and a ‘buy-in’. Rather, analysts should underst

Why Do We Display?

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

It is an exciting time to be part of the visual merchandising and display industry! More thought, energy, and imagination goes into designing retail spaces than ever before. The consumer no longer comes to the store to shop but rather is on a quest for new experiences, sparking the growth of what is termed “experience design.” Shoppers empowered by technology and smartphones have changed the retail landscape. They are making up the rules, and retailers are listening—providing customers with the p

Line and Composition

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

balancedefinedLine is a direction. It is a major part display amusingtypes ofof composition, and second only to color in creating a response to the merchandise in a display. Lines can be lineverticalvertical, linehorizontalhorizontal, linecurvedcurved, or diagonal. The way in which these lines are utilized and combined determines the effectiveness of the merchandise presentation. Each line suggests something else and, like letters combined to form words, lines are arranged to make selling “pictur

Light and Lighting

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

natural day lightLED (Light-Emitting Diode)HID (high-intensity discharge)colorusing to promote colorbouncing of lightfixturesimportance oflight/lightingbouncing ofincandescent lightfluorescent lightartificial lightinglight/lightingretailLighting is an important aspect in every area of a retail operation. It begins outside where the customer arrives in the parking lot and stretches into the aisles and perimeters of the retail selling space. It illuminates the window displays, display cases, shelve

The Exterior of the Store

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

signas signaturebalancedefinedfoodexteriorsignsThe store’s sign, on the outside of the building, makes the first impression on the shopper. It sets the look and image of the store. How the sign is designed—the materials used, the style of the typography and imagery, and the color—conveys information about the store’s brand. The exterior signage should be legible from a distance and illuminated properly for nighttime visibility. Its size and scale, in proportion to the store’s façade, the size of

Display Window Construction

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

reflectionclosed-back windows bank of windowsreflectionbalancedefinedclosed-back windows bank of windowsdisplay windowclosed-back windowsclosed-back windowsA closed-back window is the typical display window, with a full back wall, sides, and a large plate glass window facing the pedestrian or street traffic. It is also known as an enclosed windowenclosed window.

Store Interiors

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

focal pointsIn planning traffic patterns and store layout, architects, store planners, and visual merchandisers will often speak oflight/lightingfor island displaysiPadeditorial style merchandising story onbalancedefinededitorial style merchandising story on island displayslocating feature areas, hotspots, or focal points. The focal point is a generic term that refers to any place in the retail setting where emphasis has been placed to attract the shopper. Focal points are strategically positione

Mannequins and Alternatives

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

There are some exciting new trends taking place in the mannequin industry. Manufacturers are consulting with visual merchandisers about their needs, and their response has influenced the design and customization of mannequins. Some companies are offering mannequins with arms that detach magnetically instead of using the traditional interlocking hardware.

Dressing the Three-Dimensional Form

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

wigsdressing mannequinswigsdressing mannequinsassembling mannequins andmannequindressingdressing mannequinsTo dress a mannequin, it must first be taken apart and then carefully reassembled as the various items or merchandise are put on the figure. After dressing a mannequin for some time, the visual merchandiser will develop his or her own technique for handling the mannequin and assembling mannequinsassembling the parts. For the beginner, the following steps will serve as a convenient way to sta

Fixtures

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

standsfixturesstandsThe stand is a very widely used, basic fixture. It comes with an assortment of tops that may be slipped interchangeably into an adjustable rod set on a weighted base. The base sits securely on the floor (or on a platformplatform, elevation, counter, or ledge), and the rod may be adjusted to the desired height for presenting the merchandise.

Visual Merchandising and Dressing Fixtures

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

balancedefinedvisual merchandisingvisual presentationVisual merchandising takes place where the shopper and the product come together in a real, hands-on situation: It is the presentation visual merchandisingobjectives ofof the stock on the selling floor. Visual merchandising is not quite a science, nor is it solely an art. Although it is possible to draw up plans, draft diagrams, make schedules, and turn the merchandising techniques into a series of graphs and charts, visual merchandising is mor

Modular Fixtures and Systems in Store Planning

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

balancedefinedmodulesas building blocksH&Mbuilding blocks, modules asgraphicson modulesmoduleson floorsfloorgraphics onmodular fixturesfixturesconstruction ofAs you travel across the country and visit malls and shopping centers in the different cities, you discover that many store brands are designed with consistency. A ZaraZara is always a Zara, an H&M is always an H&M, and StarbucksStarbucks in a different city somehow looks just like the one back home. When a chain-store operation calls upon a

Furniture as Merchandisers and Props

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

furniture armoireschairschairsA chair can be the essence of a whole room, an entire period or style or time, or a culture. A simple, single, easily obtainable director’s chair of colored canvas and wood can imply the glamour and excitement of Hollywood, of stars and famous names, and all of that in the confines of the display area. It doesn’t take a whole sleek steamship to suggest “The Cruise”—a slatted chairsdeckdeck chairdeck chair, a bit of railing with a lifesaver attached (or in vinyl on th

Fashion Accessory Display

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

settingOne way to show fashion accessories is to make them part of the total look. This provides the shopper with a setting, or background, for those accessories, creating a sense of time, place, and occasion—and a distinctive and memorable style. The difference between a dress or suit carefully fitted on a form and the display of that same garment accessorized with a scarf, jewelry, and a bag slung over the shoulder, along with the right style and color of shoes, is the difference between “just

Home Fashions, Hard Goods, and Food Displays

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Every year, the International Housewares Association (IHA) sponsors a giant expo at the McCormick PlaceMcCormick Place exhibit space in Chicago, and literally thousands of manufacturers and vendors from around the world present their newest designs and wares to the thousands of merchants and global retailers that are involved in the home fashions business.

Point-of-Purchase Display

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

plywoodimpulse shopping andbalancedefinedplywoodas displayersplywoodas displaysplywoodas fixturesPoint of purchase (POP) has been around since long before the cigar store Indian sculpted out of wood, clutching a handful of tobacco leaves, and garishly painted in green, red, and gold. It stood outside cigar stores and tobacco shops announcing to one and all on the street that tobacco products were sold just inside. Point-of-purchase signage probably goes back even further than the Middle Ages, whe

Visual Merchandise Planning

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

visual merchandising planningstore planner andVisual merchvisual merchandising planningcolors andandise planning can mean different things to different people working in retail. visual merchandising planningdirectives forvisual merchandising planningplanograms forFor buyers, merchants, and store management, visual merchandising directivemerchandising is about metricsvisual merchandising planningmetrics ofmetrics or the average revenue a retailer generates for every square foot of sales space. ROI

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