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Challenges and Propositions: Alternative Approaches to Design and Engagement

Hélène Day Fraser

Source: Sustainable Fashion What’s Next?. A Conversation about Issues, Practices and Possibilities, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

HÉLÈNE DAY FRASER is an Associate Professor at Emily Carr University of Art and Design, Canada. She isa founding member of theECUMaterial Matters research cluster, a member of the Emily Carr DESIS Lab, the International Local Wisdom research network, and Creatives with Intent (an Emily Carr based sustainability initiative).She is the Lead Investigator on the cloTHING(s) as conversation research project and co-investigator and a Research Fellow with the Brooklyn Fashion and Design Accelerator. Hél

Best Practices The Filippa K Story

Kerli Kant Hvass

Source: Sustainable Fashion What’s Next?. A Conversation about Issues, Practices and Possibilities, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

According to their sustainability manager, one of the biggest impacts the business has is in the consumer phase, and therefore they are trying to implement practices to help consumers make more conscious choices when it comes to consumption, use, and reuse. In pursuing this, and to encourage a longer life for their products, they opened their first Filippa K Second Hand store in Stockholm in 2008. This was done in collaboration with a local entrepreneur who had successfully run another female con

Introduction: Fashion and Cultural Memory

Heike Jenss

Source: Fashioning Memory. Vintage Style and Youth Culture, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

It is only through our ability to remember that we experience “being/becoming (in time)being” or “becoming” in time, experiences through which we develop a sense of selfsense of self in time and place and in relation to others (see Olick, Vinitzky-Seroussi and Levi 2011: 37). Or in other words, the activating, sharing and shaping of memories together with others is crucial to the formation of identities, the generation of social relations/social relationshipssocial relationships and our experienc

Vintage: Fashioning Time

Heike Jenss

Source: Fashioning Memory. Vintage Style and Youth Culture, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

vintage clothesAn early usage of the word vintage in the context of clothing can be found in American Vogue (magazine)Vogue. In the rubric “Smart Fashions for Limited Incomes” in the September 1913 issue, the writer offers “Several Ruses for Disguising the Vintage of Last Year’s Wardrobe,” to make an up-to-date appearance with clothes that survive from past seasons. This includes hands-on advice on updating the “tailoringtailor suit of last year’s vintage” with a “new, upsloping belt” so the suit

Investing (in) Time: Collecting and Consuming the Past

Heike Jenss

Source: Fashioning Memory. Vintage Style and Youth Culture, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In Germany, markets for used goods, including clothes, have a long history, yet their patronage from consumers who do not rely on them out of economic necessity emerges, as in other European countries, more widely in the 1970s. Volker Fischer, VolkerFischer’s 1980 book on the “nostalgia market” in Germany provides a comprehensive overview of the development of the trade, and the shift in value of old things in the context of the 1970s, when there is surplussurplus in goods and also (compared to t

Red or Dead

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Home Front Clothing Initiatives

Geraldine Howell

Source: Wartime Fashion. From Haute Couture to Homemade, 1939–1945, 2012, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Polish Urban Dress in Transition from Socialism to Post-Socialism

Bogna Dowgiałło and Agnieszka Burska

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Material poverty and dramatically changed social structures influenced most Polish dress in the immediate postwar period. Because ethnic minorities had been either deported or exterminated and because both the Nazis and the Soviets had taken steps to eliminate the prewar elite, Polish society had become nearly homogenous.

Secondhand Clothing

Karen Tranberg Hansen

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Secondhand clothing constitutes a global market of commerce and consumption that has a long but changing history with complex links to garment production, tailoring, and couture. In Europe and North America, secondhand clothing was an important source of clothing well into the nineteenth century, until mass production and growing prosperity enabled more and more people to purchase brand-new rather than previously worn garments. During Europe’s imperial expansion, the trade in secondhand clothing

Ecological Issues in Dress

Jana M. Hawley

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Ecological concerns relating to dress arise at various points in the processes used to manufacture textiles and apparel and also as a result of the use of those products. These concerns are similar in both the United States and Canada, and the solutions to these problems are much the same in both countries.

Secondhand Clothing

Heike Jenss

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The term secondhand clothing connotes garments that enter a second or new circle of use after they have been worn or used by a previous owner. The handing down, sale, and reuse of previously worn garments have been common practices throughout the history of dress. Even into the twentieth century, garments were expensive goods and often a family investment that was passed on to the next generation or traded and exchanged for other goods. With the wider accessibility of fashion and the acceleration

Dress and the Art Trade

Stephanie Lake

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

In the late 1990s, an elite secondary market for twentieth-century clothing burst onto the fashion and art collecting scenes. Vintage clothing began to be regarded as an important art and expression of individuality, and collecting it was endorsed by celebrity tastemakers wearing everything from couture gowns to vintage concert T-shirts. Reaching far beyond historical dress and celebrity memorabilia and even beyond provenance, a cult of vintage fashion became big business. The most storied auctio

Vintage Dress

Maria Mackinney-Valentin

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The term vintage generally refers to the revived use of certain secondhand clothes, shoes, and accessories primarily originating from the twentieth century. From being a subcultural phenomenon in the mid-1990s, vintage became a mainstream trend in Euro-American markets around the beginning of the twenty-first century. Vintage can be seen as a paradoxical fashion phenomenon in the sense that it assumes durable qualities similar to those of vintage cars and wine, while fashion is often defined by t

Globalization and Dress

Margaret Maynard

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The trading of articles of dress, cloth, body adornments, precious stones, oils, and perfumes across wide areas of the globe, whether by sea, river, or overland routes, has taken place for centuries. All manner of cultural transfers and modifications of dress have eventuated because of migrations, diasporic movements, and subjugation of peoples. Something very different, though, is the globalization of dress, the increasing dominance of mass-produced standardized clothing across the world, which

Used Clothing in the Philippines

B. Lynne Milgram

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. South Asia and Southeast Asia, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Traders and consumers in the Philippines use the increasing imports of secondhand clothing to fashion new forms of identity and new options in work. Global exports of secondhand clothing from North America and Europe to countries in Asia and Africa have expanded rapidly since the 1990s, with surpluses of clothing growing in Northern Hemisphere countries, and with the liberalization of Southern Hemisphere economies that gave people more access to Western goods generally. In the Philippines, such u

Subcultural Dress

David Muggleton and Dunja Brill

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

A subculture can be defined as a group with particular shared cultural features that distinguish it clearly from other subcultures and both the specific milieu (parent culture) and wider society (dominant culture) from which it emerges. The definition of culture on which this notion of a subculture is based is borrowed from anthropology and is taken to mean a whole way of life of a society or particular section thereof, depending on the level of analysis. A subculture can therefore be seen as a d

Burkina Faso

Christopher D. Roy

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Africa, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Burkina Faso is located at the crossroads of several important trade routes that cross West Africa from the Sahara to the old Gold Coast, and from the Inland Delta of the Niger to the former Slave Coast. The peoples of Burkina have always participated actively in the long-distance trade in salt, kola nuts, cotton cloth, and gold. The Mossi and other people in central Burkina speak Voltaic languages that are very closely related to the languages of northern Ghana. The clothing of Voltaic peoples i

Dressing the Body in the Western Desert, Australia

Diana Young

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The accounts of Aboriginal people themselves and other historical documentation suggest that from the time indigenous people came into contact with European clothes and other textiles such as blankets and woolen yarns, they were highly desirous of them. That period of contact was later in Central Australia than elsewhere (except perhaps eastern Arnhem Land). In the Western Desert, the area south and west of what came to be called Alice Springs on Arrernte country, it was as late as the 1950s and

Other People's Clothes? The International Secondhand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia

Karen Tranberg Hansen

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion, 2nd Edition, 2009, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In much of the West today, second-hand clothing makes up fringe, or niche, markets. Income distribution, purchasing power, affordable mass-produced garments and apparel, and concerns with fashion have reduced the need for large segments of the population to purchase used clothing. But well into the nineteenth century, used clothing constituted the effective market for much of the population except the very rich. Still in many countries in the Third World today, where the cost factor is enormously

Developing Consumerism and the Ready-made Clothing Trade in Britain, 1750–1800

Beverly Lemire

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion, 2nd Edition, 2009, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The Stationers' Company had obtained a monopoly for the publication of women's almanacs in 1704 and they produced The Ladies' Diary or The Women's Almanack. In 1750, a black and white engraving of a fashionable gown was included at the front of this volume, in response to the interest in fashions evinced by their readers. Pictures of this sort were included in all subsequent editions, depicting styles of full dress, undress, head coverings, bonnets, and accessories. In 1770 the monopoly was succe

Second Hand Fashion, Culture and Identity in Hong Kong

Hazel Clark

Source: Old Clothes, New Looks. Second Hand Fashion, 2005, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Settled by the British in 1841 and established as a colony with a 99-year lease in 1898, Hong Kong was ‘handed back’ to mainland China in 1997, with the ground work for that change having been laid in the early 1990s, politically, socially, economically, and culturally. What was being returned to China was not the ‘barren rock’ first ceded to the British, but an affluent and fashionable city and an international center of business, banking and trade.

The Florentine ‘Rigattieri’: Second Hand Clothing Dealers and the Circulation of Goods in the Renaissance

Carole Collier Frick

Source: Old Clothes, New Looks. Second Hand Fashion, 2005, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In the economy of Renaissance Florence, the textile and garment industry dominated the urban marketplace for consumer goods. In addition to the 909 household heads Franceschi found who listed some aspect of the woolen cloth business as their occupation at the turn of the fifteenth century, Herlihy and Klapisch-Zuber counted 866 clothiers in 1427 that identified themselves by some aspect of the clothing trade within the city.For the wool-workers see (Franceschi, 1993: tab. 20: 143). For other clot

Used Clothing

Mélissa Gauthier

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Latin America and the Caribbean, 2005, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Although not new, the global circulation of secondhand clothing from the West to the Third World has expanded rapidly over the past two decades. The United States is the world’s largest exporter of used clothing, American exports having grown significantly since the late twentieth century. Different countries subject imported American secondhand clothing to various trade policies, from liberalization to protectionist. A recent review by the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (

Crafting Appearances: The Second Hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia

Karen Tranberg Hansen

Source: Old Clothes, New Looks. Second Hand Fashion, 2005, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In much of the West today, shopping for second hand clothes has become a pastime rather than a need. Fashion conscious shoppers, both young and old, female and male, turn to the used clothing racks for vintage or retro looks. Charity shops offer a retail space for experimentation with the unknown, the imagined (Gregson, Brooks & Crewe, 2000). Across North America and Europe, second hand clothing makes up niche or fringe markets for consumers who are on the lookout for very specific garments. Ther

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Sixties Dress Only! The Consumption of the Past in a Retro Scene

Heike Jenß

Source: Old Clothes, New Looks. Second Hand Fashion, 2005, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

It is reasonably easy and affordable to recreate a nice 60s look 30 years later. A well stocked wardrobe should have a mix of current items and retro items that can be worn together. For a proper 60s look, vintage dresses are the best …

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