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Menswear Retail and Trends

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Retailtrend services by Retail – referring to the broader concept of the commercial activity of selling and buying – is one of the largest sectors to use trend services. Trend data and information can be used in numerous ways and in various sectors of menswear retail. For example, it can be used in the design of the actual product, if the retailer has its own brand, or it can be used in buying as an investment guide for the next season. Merchandisers work closely with buyers and with designers in

Buying for Different Types of Stores

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

buying,different types of products,buying,at different retail formats,Almost all the duties that are described in the last chapter are performed by a buyer at any type of retail store—no matter what products are sold. As you start to plan your career in retail buying, one of your first decisions should be to determine the types of merchandise that would interest you the most. Are you more interested insoft lines,soft lines orhard lines,hard lines? Soft lines are typically the apparel and accessor

Designs, Brands and Trends—To Leave a Mark

Jenny Lantz

Source: The Trendmakers. Behind the Scenes of the Global Fashion Industry, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The 1990s and 2000s were characterized by the emergence of “fast fashion.” With more efficient buying and distribution processes, mass-market fashion chainsmass-market fashion chains, such as the pioneering Spanish firm Zara, could get their clothes into their stores much more quickly than ever before. Fast-fashion chains broke with the seasonal model that had earlier dominated the industry, offering new goods every week. By transferring production to low-cost countries, primarily in Asia, where

Financialization and Trends—Trends as Fashion Risk

Jenny Lantz

Source: The Trendmakers. Behind the Scenes of the Global Fashion Industry, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

I’m completely ignorant. I’m a stock market analyst. I have been to two fashion shows, Burberry and Hugo Boss, and I have no clue if they are going to work, if it’s good or not. People around me looked like they were enjoying what they were seeing. No, as an analyst you always look at other things.

Retailing in Developing and Emerging Markets

Brenda Sternquist and Elizabeth B. Goldsmith

Source: International Retailing, 3rd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

After studying this chapter, you should be able to:

Retailing in Multinational Markets

Brenda Sternquist and Elizabeth B. Goldsmith

Source: International Retailing, 3rd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

After studying this chapter, you should be able to:

Defining the Customer

Linda Tain

Source: Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers. Fourth Edition, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The importance of focusing on a specific market and customer is directly linked to the job search process. Each clothing company has a reputation for a particular kind of clothing. This is not to say a company cannot make more than one product. Those that have divisions or licensees offer a variety of merchandise. Some companies have diffusion or secondary lines that capture “the look” the designer is known for while serving a different price point and category. For example, Ralph LaurenRalph Lau

The Fashion Buyer

David Shaw and Dimitri Koumbis

Source: Fashion Buying. From Trend Forecasting to Shop Floor, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

A fashion buyer is the individual or group of individuals (the buying team) whose primary role is to purchase merchandise for a retail organization. They work diligently in researching trends; sourcing materials and/or product; creating seasonal buying plans; and working with outside vendors and designers to produce a range that will be distributed through various retail channels such as brick-and-mortar locations, online stores, and/or catalogs.

The Fashion Show: from Couturier to Catwalk

Jon Cope and Dennis Maloney

Source: Fashion Promotion in Practice, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

This chapter examines types of fashion shows and their essential components. We discuss the evolution of the show, and how online technologies and social media have accelerated promotion before, during, and after the event. Finally, we look to the future and ask whether a wider audience reach means the end of the front row.

Cargo Pants

Joseph H. Hancock

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

During the twentieth century, cargo pants have gone from being a traditional military uniform to a popular casual pant worn by many consumers in the global consumer market. Since the late 1960s, when hippies wore army surplus vintage styles as a sign of protest against the Vietnam War, cargo pants have undergone a considerable transformation, changing in both fabrication and form. They have penetrated popular culture through intermediaries such as the military, subcultural style, film, media, ret

Max Mara

Emily M. Orr

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Brands And Private Labels

John Donnellan

Source: Merchandise Buying and Management, 4th Edition, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Branded merchandise, or brand-name merchandise, is identified by a name and/or symbol associated with certain product characteristics. Lucky Brand, Wrangler, Louis Vuitton, Levi’s, Ralph Lauren, and Escada are brands. Certain product characteristics are associated with each brand: Lucky Brand (high price), Wrangler (moderate price), Levi’s (fit), Louis Vuitton (durability), Ralph Lauren (styling), and Escada (prestige). Most brand names imply multiple product characteristics. Louis Vuitton is kno

New Markets and Expansion: 1880s–1900

Joy Spanabel Emery

Source: A History of the Paper Pattern Industry. The Home Dressmaking Fashion Revolution, 2014, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

By 1880, the six major U.S. pattern companies—Demorest, Butterick, McCall, Harper’s Bazar, Taylor, and Domestic—had positioned themselves in the market. Each published a magazine advertising their patterns for the latest fashions for women, a full complement of children’s clothing, undergarments for all, and shirts, trousers, and various other men’s non-tailored garments.

Visualizing the Customer

Evelyn L. Brannon

Source: Designer’s Guide to Fashion Apparel, 2011, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

“My idea is ‘woman’ in general, and a collection must fit all types.”

Mass-Market Fashion Brands

Kaled K. Hameide

Source: Fashion Branding. Unraveled, 2011, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

MASS-MARKET brands are ones that are mass produced. They range in price from low-priced budget brands to high-priced premium brands with mid-priced consumer brands in between. Mass-market fashion brands are generally fashion followers and not trendsetters. They may suffer from sameness, indistinguishable differences, or lack of creativity compared to luxury brands; thus, they are rarely positioned on creativity but on values derived from price, and convenience. Accordingly, these brands’ values u

The Jeans that Don’t Fit: Marketing Cheap Jeans in Brazil

Rosana Pinheiro-Machado

Source: Global Denim, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In the Denim Manifesto anthropologists are challenged to study denim – something that is commonplace in our everyday lives but notably absent from ethnographic analyses. As a manifesto, the authors refute the ontological philosophical logic that an element, such as clothing, that is located on the surface of bodies is intrinsically a superficial problem. Instead they consider the philosophical implications of the use of jeans – a clothing resource that resolves the anxiety and the contradictions

IT in the Clothing Industry

Céline Abecassis-Moedas

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Information technology (IT) in the clothing industry is one of the elements that allows the latest fashion trends from the catwalks to be transformed into mass-market products within days. In clothing manufacturing, it is important to distinguish between preassembly of garments (design, marker-making, or putting the patterns on the fabric, spreading the fabric, cutting, and bundling operations) and garment assembly. Most of the innovations in production and information technologies are taking pla

North American Influences on West European Dress

Rebecca Arnold

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

North America’s effect on West European fashion is often viewed only in relation to Hollywood and celebrity. However, its influence has been far more diverse, from technological inventions to leisure wear and the professionalization of the industry.

Ethical Fashion and Ecofashion

Sandy Black

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Although the fashion industry is fast-moving and often dismissed as frivolous, it represents one of the major global economic players. Fashion is one of the few remaining craft-based industries, relying on skilled manual labour for manufacturing across its wide spectrum of levels, which raises particular issues for production. There is an urgent need to reconcile ethical, environmental, social, and personal agendas through future product development and manufacturing cycles in the fashion industr

Size and Fit in Industrially Produced Clothes

Karen Borregaard

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The defining characteristic of ready-to-wear clothes, which differentiates them from made-to-measure clothes, is that they are produced in standard sizes to fit individuals whose exact body dimensions are not known by producers. The aim of standard sizes is to fit as many in a target group as possible. Size refers to both a garment’s measurements and the way size is communicated to customers. In addition, each ready-to-wear style is produced in a range of sizes, known as a sizing system. The numb

Fashion Cities

Christopher Breward

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The history of Western fashion is closely related to the history of urban life. As cultural geographer David Gilbert has claimed, this complex relationship underpins contemporary understandings of global fashion as a system orchestrated around a shifting network of world cities, particularly Paris, New York, London, Milan, and Tokyo but also incorporating (at various times) Moscow, Vienna, Berlin, São Paulo, Kuwait City, Cape Town, Barcelona, Antwerp, Delhi, Melbourne, Sydney, Shanghai, Hong Kong

The Art, Craft, and Business of Tailoring

Milva Fiorella Di Lorenzo

Source: Tailoring Techniques for Fashion, 2010, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

After you have read this chapter, you should be able to discuss:

Global Positioning of Australian Fashion

Robyn Healy

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Over the years Australia has found it difficult to establish a presence in the fashion centers of Europe and the United States. Yet when Sydney fashion designer Collette Dinnigan staged a full-scale parade in the 1995 official Paris ready-to-wear calendar, it changed forever the perception of Australian fashion as being somewhat out of touch. This defining moment sparked debate and extensive media coverage about a new wave of emerging designers and was crucial in the development of the local indu

Copying French Couture for American Consumers

Sara Idacavage

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Throughout the first half of the twentieth century, it was common practice for American dress manufacturers and designers to directly copy clothing styles designed by Parisian couturiers, or to adapt them slightly to better meet the tastes of female American consumers. Twice a year, retail buyers, independent designers, manufacturers, publicists, and journalists from the United States traveled to Paris to view the latest couture collections. As the French couture industry was not able to cater to

The Fashion Industry

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The origin of garment making is traceable to when humans started covering their bodies. Western clothes changed from the unconstructed dress of the ancient Mediterranean world to the more structured garments of the late Middle Ages. Western apparel became more intricate, requiring increasingly specialized skills for its construction. Before the Industrial Revolution that began in England in the latter half of the eighteenth century, making clothes was an arduous task, and quality garments were an

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