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“My Man, Let Me Pull Your Coat to Something”: Malcolm X

Carol Tulloch

Source: The Birth of Cool. Style Narratives of the African Diaspora, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

[P]eople are always speculating—why am I as I am? To understand that of any person, his whole life, from birth must be reviewed. All of our experiences fuse into our personality. Everything that ever happened to us is an ingredient.

How Muslim Women Dress in Israel

Oz Almog

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Islamic/Muslim dressIn order to understand fully Muslim female dress in Israel, some basic concepts will be clarified here. Islam, like most other religions, regulates the behavior of its believers.Linda B. Arthur ed., “Introduction,” Religion, Dress and the Body, Oxford and NY: Berg, 1999, p. 1. Like other faiths, its legal code lays down rules regarding the related fields of clothing and sexuality.Steele, Valerie, Fashion and Eroticism, Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Ja

Fashion and Feminism

Henriette Dahan-Kalev and Shoshana-Rose Marzel

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

civil rightsgenderDuring the French Revolution, dress became an important issue: one of the ways in which revolutionaries’ values were to be obtained and symbolized was through the adoption of class-less styles of clothing, which expressed the ideals of Fraternity, Liberty, and Equality.

Islamic Style

Magdalena Crăciun

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Fashion designers have found inspiration in past and present sartorial repertoires. Islamically appropriate forms of covered dress have aesthetically been drawn upon as well. Consequently, headscarves, face veils and head-to-toe outerwear have occasionally appeared on the catwalk. Fashion commentators have pointed out that such creations and assemblages referenced ethic, traditional, historical, exotic or oriental dress, and only rarely labelled their source of inspiration as Islamic style. The n

Moroccan Fashion as Tradition

M. Angela Jansen

Source: Moroccan Fashion. Design, tradition and modernity, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Throughout the twentieth and twenty-first centuries, there have been a number of political events that have had an important impact on the development of Moroccan fashion. Under the French FrenchProtectorateProtectorate, for example, it was decided to separate the new European city centres from the indigenousindigenous Arab city centres. This resulted in a cultural buffer against French cultural influences, allowing the continuity of a Moroccan lifestylelifestyle. Over time, this led to two more

Fashion and the Law: The Muslim Headscarf and The Modern Woman

Barbara Vinken

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present, 2013, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Iranian Fashion in the Twenty-First Century

William O. Beeman

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Central and Southwest Asia, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Fashion in the twenty-first century in Iran has become highly inventive, surprisingly innovative, and undoubtedly glamorous. This is a surprise to some in the West who are accustomed to seeing images of large public gatherings of men and women in drab clothing engaged in religious or political activities that seem to be decidedly lacking in any elements that could be called “fashionable.” Women in particular are portrayed in the all-enveloping chador, usually solid black, which has become a Weste

Harari Dress

Peri M. Klemm

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Africa, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

In the early twenty-first century, Muslim Harari women dress in sumptuous embroidered silk dresses and headscarves in purple, pink, and scarlet for special occasions. One particular dress can be worn inside out if in mourning or attending a funeral. Underneath the dresses, women wear ge ganafi, fitted leggings with attractive embroidery at the ankle and coarse fabric at the top. These pants relate to times when foreigners (Egyptians, Cubans, and Italians) invaded the city state of Harar and girls

Oromo Dress

Peri M. Klemm

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Africa, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

This focus on the dress of Oromo women and men from the early 1800s to the early twenty-first century includes changes in clothing from leather to cotton to an array of new textiles and symbols. It also touches on the most common jewelry types, hairstyles, and scarification/tattooing practices among the Arsi, Afran Qallo, Wallo, and Karrayuu Oromo.

Turbans and Veils: Gender and Islamic Identity in Nigeria

Elisha P. Renne

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Africa, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Turbans have long been associated with an Islamic identity in the part of West Africa now known as Nigeria. Beginning in the early nineteenth century, increasing numbers of Muslim men wore turbans, which reflected the teachings of Shehu ‘Uthmān dan Fodio, who established the Sokoto caliphate (1809–1903) which extended across much of northern Nigeria. Yet men from royal families in the different Hausa-Fulani emirates sought to distinguish themselves through unique styles of turban tying. For emirs

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