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Introduction

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

vintagerecyclingconsumerculture/societySubcultures have long played a significant role in the development logosof bandsof popular visual signifiers, which are often the catalyst for mainstream styles. self-identified punkPunk is one of the most influential and highly visible of modern subcultures, alongside other formerly underground scenes such as hip-hop, gothgoth, and electronic dance music. Many elements of punk dress have become iconic in popular culture, and yet some of their implications h

Punk Style Past and Present

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

leatherbeltshooded sweatshirt (hoodie)craftreconfiguredcolorblackapparelself-identified punkWhat is punk dress and how did it get that way? For some punk style is an obvious reference to green mohawkmohawk hair, a leather jacket, plaid plaidpantspants, and bootscombat bootscombat bootsboots. For others it is an oversized hooded sweatshirt and jeans, clean white shoes, and a wallet accessorychainchain. Some say it is a current caricaturecaricature logosof bandsof a dead movement while others say i

Punk Style Motivations and Explanations

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

There is no simple way to answer the question “why does someone dress in a punk style?” Motivations cannot be entirely quantified, however there are dominant themes that drive many to make stylistic choices toward a punk look. Punk style is a way to express individual identity, as it addresses internal emotions as well as lifestyle choices and position within society. The individual choosing punk dress may be expressing internal feelings as well as trying to find external recognition for his or h

Punk Style and Society

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Dress products presenting punk imagery have become commercialized and widely distributed, although that does not necessarily strip them of all punk value. The design symbolism in punk style is affected by culture, consumptionfashionfashion consumption, and diffusionproduct diffusionproduct diffusion. Judy Attfield (2000) clarifies that the entirety of an object is more than its tactile and visible features, and also more than the social themes and ideas represented in the look of its design. The

Summary of Punk Style

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Original punk looks were solidified in the eyes of outsiders and the media, and became cues for insiders and for following generations. However, the look is not as much of a uniform as observers would come to stereotype. While punk style has simultaneously maintained some of its original subcultural intent, it has also developed mass appeal, perhaps in an adulterated or appropriated form. This mass image then cyclically helps solidify the stereotypical vision of punk style including such images a

John Galliano, Spring/Summer 1990

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The unexpected success of John Galliano’s graduate collection for Saint Martin’s School of Art in 1984 led to an account with the London department store Browns and opportunities for financial backing. Galliano immersed himself in the creative process, with little concern for business matters. In 1987 he was announced as British Designer of the Year; he would receive the award again in 1994, 1995, and 1997. Galliano had been active in the London club scene during his time at Saint Martin’s. This

Sid Vicious and the Sex Pistols

José Blanco F.

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The British band Sex Pistols are the quintessential London punk band: they defined British punk better than any other artist did. Although punk rock was heralded as antiestablishment and promoting anarchy, Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood carefully orchestrated the appearance and styling of the Sex Pistols. Sid Vicious joined the band in 1977 to replace Glen Matlock. As guitarist and vocalist, Vicious became a de facto leading man for the band. Along with bandmate Johnny Rotten (John Lydon),

Adam Ant

José Blanco F.

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

In the early 1980s, pop musicians embraced historicism in their performance attire. Adam and the Ants, a new wave band based in London, donned clothing inspired by historic military outfits, nineteenth-century dandies, and pirates. They were among the recognized leaders of the New Romantics movement, a London youth subculture known for its taste for eccentric fashion. The band was formed in 1977 and achieved fame with a streak of successful albums, particularly Kings of the Wild Frontier (1980) a

Siouxsie Sioux

Fiona Corbridge

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The Medusa-like Siouxsie Sioux, who fronted her own band, Siouxsie and the Banshees, is closely identified with 1970s British punk and the post-punk era. Gleefully subverting convention and with an inescapably dark aesthetic, forbidden worlds of sex and fetishism were crossed with theatrical display in a wardrobe that was crowned by the graphic beauty of a pale face with exaggerated kohl eyes, red lips, and savage spikes of dark hair. Fashion has continued to embrace the theme of subversion and m

Stephen Sprouse, Fall/Winter 1988

Lorynn Divita

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Stephen Sprouse was a pioneer in merging street style and high fashion. During his early career at Halston, he was drawn to the downtown New York punk scene. Working with Keith Haring, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Andy Warhol, his fall/winter collection of 1988 had all of the hallmarks of a Sprouse collection, with Day-Glo fabrics, sheath dresses, and bold graffiti prints. It was also Sprouse’s last collection for a decade. Stephen’s career flourished again at the end of his life thanks to his famou

Debbie Harry

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The veritable godmother of new wave music, Debbie Harry’s impact on the world of fashion is perhaps tantamount to her musical legacy. The lead singer of pioneering band Blondie, Harry brought a unique sense of glamour and sophistication to New York’s punk scene that emerged within the city’s seedy Bowery neighborhood in the 1970s. A female performer immersed in the primarily male environment of the legendary rock venue CBGB, Harry’s trailblazing musical persona was a paradoxical combination of el

Anna Sui

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Raf Simons

Michelle Labrague

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

“Safety-Pin Dress,” Versace Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 1994

Julia Petrov

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Now synonymous with the actress who wore it, the “Liz Hurley” dress has become entrenched in popular culture. Originally an elite couture object that played with sartorial codes of high and low fashion, the dress was later referenced and imitated countless times. Remarkable for its deconstructed tailoring, which revealed as much as it concealed, this gown married a punk sensibility with red carpet style.

Vivienne Westwood

Aimee Scott

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Punk

Monica Sklar

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Punk is one of the most influential and highly visible of modern subcultures around the globe. While maintaining its original cachet with subcultural wearers, the aesthetic is also seen on high-fashion runways, in mainstream mall stores, and in every ideation imaginable on the street. Many elements of punk dress, such as combat boots, studded belts, and vibrantly dyed hair, have become iconic in popular culture, yet symbolism and meanings have changed over time. Today’s punk dress is primarily ro

Bibliographic guide

Western subcultural style uses the dressed body as a place of social critique and artistic expression that does not follow the conventions of mainstream style. Subcultural dress can also demonstrate lifestyle and community participation, as well as individual experiences that pertain to the subcultural interests. Scholarship on the dress practices of punk, goth, hip-hop, hippie, and other underground lifestyles has shown that subcultural dress can be a catalyst for change in the mainstream fashio, Berg Fashion Library

Cultural, Economic, and Political Dimensions of Social Responsibility

Marsha A. Dickson, Suzzana Loker and Molly Eckman

Source: Social Responsibility in the Global Apparel Industry, 2009, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

… what is considered normal practice in one nation may be considered unethical in others. Because they work for an institution that transcends national borders and cultures, managers in a multinational firm need to be particularly sensitive to these differences and able to choose the ethical action in those circumstances where variation across societies creates the potential for ethical problems.Hill, C. W. L. (2006). (p. 131).

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