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Tradition and Innovation, 1981–2014

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Hardill, IreneHardill’s study shows that woolen manufacturing in Yorkshire wool textiles industryYorkshire, which was still by far the largest center of that industry in the UK had suffered major contraction by 1981.IreneHardill, The Regional Implications of Restructuring (Aldershot: Gower Publishing Company Limited, 1987), pp. 193–4. Research for this book has identified that by 2014, the few firms trading from Yorkshire that made tweeds and other woolen cloths, included Abraham Moon & SonsAbrah

Fashion law for a global industry

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

This text will analyze the legal framework governing this global industry, as well as the parties to whom the law applies. Through an examination of the breadth of participants and laws, one can begin to understand the complexity of both the fashion business and the laws governing its operations as multiple legal obligations imposed by different government administrative agenciesadministrative agenciesimporting(which are governmental bodies with the authority to implement and administer particula

Intellectual property: Protection, enforcement and hidden issues

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

While the lengths to which IP protection should extend over the fashion industry may be left to the courts to answer, it can be said that there are several facets of the industry as a whole that are in need of protection. They range from a product design or functionality standpoint, to issues involving the manufacture of counterfeit goods, which have been linked to child and slave labor, as well as that such sales have been connected to the funding of terrorist activities.

Importing fashion merchandise

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

importingglobal systemIf you look around the average American household today you will quickly discover that most of the articles there are from other countries. You would find the same result when examining the labels on your wearing apparel and may even realize that 100 percent of your clothes have been imported with much of it from China, as the 2015 dollar value in apparel imports from China alone totaled $30,540,941,000.http://otexa.trade.gov/msrcty/v5700.htm (viewed on August 23, 2016).

Exporting for the fashion industry

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

A rise in an awareness of the importance of reshoring has been especially noticeable in the fashion industry, and particularly so within cities which had enjoyed historical economic prominence thanks to the industry. One such example is that of New York CityNew York City, where several notable facilities have opened up to support local garment manufacturing and fashion innovation such as the Brooklyn Design + Fashion Accelerator of Pratt College, and Manufacture NY.

Locating Sources in Foreign Markets

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Making the decision to import purchases from foreign sources requires that you prepare yourself for entering the global marketplace. Learn as much as you can about the people,brands generics,merchandise,merchandise quality of,global marketplace choosing the right sources,identifying reasons to buy from,buying,benefits of foreign sources,the culture, and the retailing practices of any country that you are considering as a foreign source. Possibly even learn a new language or at least a few key phr

Constructing Fashionable Dress and Identity in Bhutan

Emma Dick

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The relationship between ‘western style’ tailoring education and the construction of street-style fashion in Bhutan is the focus of the chapter by Emma Dick. She argues that there has been a unique interplay between exposure to international fashions and the projection of national dress in the emergence of a distinct language of street-style and associated identity in Bhutan. Central to the development of a fashion-conscious Bhutanese identity has been the blend of traditional media and new socia

Introduction

M. Angela Jansen and Jennifer Craik

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

fashiondiscourselegacyAbby Lillethun, Linda Welters, and Joanne Eicher (2012: 76) argue in their article (Re)Defining Fashion that socialSocial socialDarwinismDarwinism, in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, is at the origin of the embedding of perceived ownershipownership of fashion in Western Europeancultureurbanculturewesterncultureculture. Social Darwinism’s paradigm, they argue, included a hierarchical construct of human typologies shaped by Westerners, which, therefore, positione

The BRIC Countries and Trends

Jenny Lantz

Source: The Trendmakers. Behind the Scenes of the Global Fashion Industry, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Vogue India’s Trend Report appendix for May 2012: The predominately European fashions are sorted into the categories “Loud and Proud,” “Sugar Rush” and “Citrus Punsch.” One startling article features the kurta, a typically Indian garment like a long shirt or tunic, worn by both women and men: “The Indian classic has gone global. International runways showed various versions of the kurta, a must-have for all shapes.” The pictures from Céline, Anna Sui, Junya Watanabe, Louis Vuitton and Dries van N

On ‘The Street’: A Conceptual History of Street Style Photography

Brent Luvaas

Source: Street Style. An Ethnography of Fashion Blogging, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

‘On street style photographydescription ofthe Street’ is the title of photographer Bill Cunningham, BillCunningham’s long-running weekly column (and now web video series) in the Sunday style section of the New York Times. It was also the title of Amy Arbus’ photo column in the Village Voice throughout the 1980s and 1990s. Midway through the first decade of the new millennium, Scott Schuman began using it as a heading for his posts on The Sartorialist, TheSartorialist website, followed by a ‘…’, t

Introduction: Anthropology, Street Style

Brent Luvaas

Source: Street Style. An Ethnography of Fashion Blogging, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

It was Monday, 26 March 2012, a windy and unseasonably cold afternoon in Center City, Philadelphia. I was standing on the corner of Walnut and 18th Street, a backpack swung over my shoulders, a Panasonic Lumix GF-1 micro-four thirds camera dangling from my neck. My head ached. My teeth were grinding with caffeine. And my eyes were dry and strained from overuse, darting continually back and forth, as I assessed the outfit of every person passing by. I remember being self-conscious about what I was

Afterword: Fashion’s Fallacy

Sandra Niessen

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Employing a play on the term ‘Orientalism’, Sandra Niessen argues that fashion studies have been knee-capped by the lack of a sanguine theoretical lens that can dispassionately interrogate the fashion impulse. Instead, she argues, fashion theory has been co-opted by the assumptions and ideologies that underpin the phenomenon of fashion. Niessen argues that the dichotomy between fashion (= Western) and non-fashion (= Non-Western) is a ‘mystification’ and a ‘buy-in’. Rather, analysts should underst

Brief history of contemporary fashion

Chelsea Rousso and Nancy Kaplan Ostroff

Source: Fashion Forward. A Guide to Fashion Forecasting, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The “spirit of the times,” or zeitgeistzeitgeist, refers to the current state of culture: the expression of the present. The mode of an era is determined by a complex mixture of historical, social, psychological, and aesthetic factors. During each era, creative artists and designers are inspired by current influences that they interpret into innovative ideas and products. It is not surprising that there are commonalities that influence an era. New aesthetics, newaesthetics can often be found in v

Social and cultural influences

Chelsea Rousso and Nancy Kaplan Ostroff

Source: Fashion Forward. A Guide to Fashion Forecasting, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

long--term forecastingFashion forecasters project long-term social and cultural shifts, population trends, technological advances, demographicsdemographic movement, and developments in consumer behaviorconsumer behavior in long-term forecasting, future studies, or macro trendsmacro trends. A macro trend is a large-scale, continuous shift in consumer interest.

History, Art, and Plastic Bags: Viewing South Africa Through Fashion

Victoria L. Rovine

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Victoria Rovine develops a fascinating reflection as to how a prosaic global commodity, namely, the ubiquitous plastic bag, has become a fashion icon in South Africa. Labelled as ‘China bags’ (reflecting their country of manufacture), Rovine explores the collections of two South African fashion designers who base their work around the potential of these plastic containers. They have transformed the global bag into a distinctively local fashion icon as a symbol of the mixed messages of postmoderni

Summary of Punk Style

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Original punk looks were solidified in the eyes of outsiders and the media, and became cues for insiders and for following generations. However, the look is not as much of a uniform as observers would come to stereotype. While punk style has simultaneously maintained some of its original subcultural intent, it has also developed mass appeal, perhaps in an adulterated or appropriated form. This mass image then cyclically helps solidify the stereotypical vision of punk style including such images a

Strategic Retail Expansion

Brenda Sternquist and Elizabeth B. Goldsmith

Source: International Retailing, 3rd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Omaninternational retailerstop 50 global retailersAfter studying this chapter, you should be able to:

Prognosis for the Future

Brenda Sternquist and Elizabeth B. Goldsmith

Source: International Retailing, 3rd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

After studying this chapter, you should be able to:

Textiles: Fibers and Fabrics

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

A fiber—an extremely fine, hairlike strand almost invisible to the eye—is the smallest element of a fabric. It is also the starting point of a fabric. Fibers can be spun or twisted into continuous threads called yarn, and yarns can be knitted, woven, or bonded into fabrics. Though small and fine, fibers have enormous influence on fashion. They are what give a fabric its color, weight, texture, and durability.

Product Development

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Product development,merchandiser role in,Product development,designer role in,Knock-offs,Anchors,American Apparel and Footwear Association,Product lines of apparel are created and styled for wholesale presentation several times, or seasons, per year. In the fashion industries, a product line is simply called a line. A line encompasses not only the individual item of apparel or accessories but the entire season's production from that manufacturer as well. The term line is used for moderate- and po

Global Women's Apparel

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Children's apparel,history of,For thousands of years, people made their own clothes, often even producing the raw materials and converting them into textiles with which they could sew. Until the mass manufacturing of clothing began, sewing was considered women's work, except for the clothing of the wealthy man, who wore “bespoke” handmade garments from a male tailor who specialized in men's high-fashion apparel.

Global Fashion Business

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Buying merchandise for a retailer has become a global enterprise, involving planning, organization, and hard work, as well as extensive knowledge of the world's global fashion markets and related trade, import, and export agreements. Our discussion of global marketing and its buyers and sellers begins with understanding how the world's market centers developed and operate. We then discuss how importing, product development, and trade agreements work between the United States and its trading partn

Home Fashions

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The types of furnishings and household accessories in contemporary American homes are based primarily on models and ideas that the early European immigrants brought with them. Most of our beds and eating utensils, for example, are Western. But many of the fabrics and other material, the decorative patterns, and the objects themselves originated in the East and came to America through rather than from Europe. The Crusaders imported the rugs that covered the floors in medieval European castles, and

Being Fashionable in the Globalization Era in India: Holy Writing on Garments

Janaki Turaga

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Using a case study of ‘holy fashion’ in India, Janaki Turaga explores why this has become so popular in a nation that is grappling with rapid modernization and globalization amid the retention of the traditions and heritage of ancient India. Indicatively, fashion-conscious Indians have embraced a diverse range of ‘secularised sacred’ fashion garments that were previously reserved for believers in culturally prescribed sacred contexts in order to demonstrate fashion and lifestyle statements. Garme

Footwear Design, Construction, and Production

Fiona Armstrong-Gibbs and Tamsin McLaren

Source: Marketing Fashion Footwear. The Business of Shoes, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Footwear production is costly and time consuming. Historically, shoes would have been made in the country where they were destined to be sold to the end consumer, where footwear “brands” were signs of good quality and durability rather than style statements. However, in recent times the inevitable and unstoppable development of offshore production, speed of change in fashion, and consumer requirements have meant that the location of footwear production has changed dramatically.

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