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The Movement of Fashion

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: In Fashion, 3rd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Fashion is, in many ways, like a river. A river is always in motion, continuously flowing—sometimes it is slow and gentle; other times it is rushed and turbulent. It is exciting and never the same. It affects those who ride its currents and those who rest on its shores. Its movements depend on the environment.

Real-life superheroes

Barbara Brownie and Danny Graydon

Source: The Superhero Costume. Identity and disguise in fact and fiction, 2016, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The appropriation of the superhero costume often comes in conjunction with the performance of a superhero lifestyle. Masked vigilantes patrol the streets of cities including Seattle, Atlanta, New York, Toronto, MexicoMexico City, and London, and congregate in cyberspace via the World Superhero RegistryWorld Superhero Registry. Though they are too numerous to list here, those real-life superheroes that have been the subject of academic study include Phoenix Jones, PhoenixJones, who patrols the str

The Celebrity Role: From Royalty to the Rap Game

Jon Cope and Dennis Maloney

Source: Fashion Promotion in Practice, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Following definitions and a brief history of celebrity involvement in fashion promotion, this chapter probes existing research into the practice, shedding light on its effectiveness, and offering insight into how it works, with recent examples and commentary on the importance of social media in enhancing celebrity impact.

Dsquared2

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Seeing in the light—“sun”glasses, modern glamor, cool, and celebrity (1920s–present)

Vanessa Brown

Source: Cool Shades. The History and Meaning of Sunglasses, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Today, a more general sense that sunglasses protect our eyes from sunlight dominates. After all, the name finally settled on for all kinds of motor goggles, protective spectacles, autoglasses, and so on was (and is) sunglasses, conjuring up countless images of those bikini-clad women and casual, white linen-clad men basking in the glow of their own attractiveness, their sunglasses bouncing back that gold-colored light of happiness and success. Smiling or not, these men and women are embodiments o

Seeing in the “eclipse”—sunglasses, cool, and the absence of meaning (late 1950s–present)

Vanessa Brown

Source: Cool Shades. The History and Meaning of Sunglasses, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Warhol, Andyglamorempty (or hollow) glamorThe light is artificial and mirrors are provided, but not windows, because the characters must be protected from bleak, bruising reality.

Sunglasses

Vanessa Brown

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

By the late 1960s, sunglasses were a well-established fashion accessory, having accumulated numerous valuable meanings within Western visual culture: speed, technology, military power, celebrity, travel, glamour, and the outsider cool of black American jazzmen, beatniks, rap artists, cinematic gangsters, and femmes fatales. Subsequently, sunglasses became increasingly significant to fashion, providing lucrative licensing opportunities as well as creative potential to nuance clothes with desirable

Bianca Jagger

Jessica Draper

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The 1970s was a highly creative period in fashion, and one in which designers’ celebrity muses were prominent. Model and actress Bianca Jagger was a very fashionable friend to designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Roy Halston, and became a particularly memorable icon of the 1970s, embodying the eclectic style that came to define the decade. Jagger referenced themes of exoticism, menswear, and the 1940s in her attention-grabbing wardrobe, which became a subject of particular press interest afte

Michiko Koshino

Alessandro Esculapio

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Monique Lhuillier

Stephanie Edith Herold

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Chanel Haute Couture, Karl Lagerfeld, Spring/Summer 1994

Michelle Honig

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

This collection was shown in Paris beneath the Louvre in the newly renovated Carrousel underground complex, the first time a fashion show had been organized underground. The collection attracted controversy because of three dresses printed with Arabic writing. When clerics in Indonesia protested, Lagerfeld apologized, destroyed the dresses, and asked journalists and photographers not to publish photos of them. The mannequins in this show were not just top models, but celebrities and actresses. Th

Andrew Groves

Shonagh Marshall

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Antonio Berardi

Shonagh Marshall

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Beyond The Gardenia: Billie Holiday

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion and Jazz. Dress, identity and subcultural improvisation, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Holiday, Billieinfluence of Hollywoodstyleof Billie HolidayHoliday, Billiedress/style ofOn April 7, 1915, Eleanora Fagan, who would later become known as Billie Holiday, was born in Philadelphia to Sadie, a single mother. This simple event did not foreshadow the star that would suddenly shine bright and burn out within a few decades. In Baltimore, Fagan’s Holiday, Billieearly yearsearly years included a laboring mother, an absent father, truancy, rape by a neighbor and time at an institution for

Aesthetics of The Jazz Dandy

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion and Jazz. Dress, identity and subcultural improvisation, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Adding to his narrative, Michel Fontanes, a former executive, author and jazz musician, articulated the French impression of African American male instrumentalists that expatriated to the country. “They were considered in France as Gods. All black musicians not the white musicians.” Regarding his trip to Paris in 1949, Miles Davis offered consensus. “It was the freedom of being in France and being treated like a human being, like someone important. Even the band and the music we played sounded be

Philadelphia Nightlife, Nostalgia and Popular Culture

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion and Jazz. Dress, identity and subcultural improvisation, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

vaudeville entertainmentsminstrel entertainmentAlthough New Orleans, New York and Chicago flourished with neighborhoods of jazz including Storyville, Harlem and the South Side correspondingly, Philadelphia, jazz cityPhiladelphia is a setting where innovators and establishments shaped a noteworthy history. The documentation of entertainment outlets was evidenced at the end of the first decade. From 1910 to 1919, society, political and religious groups promoted balls, dances and concerts via the Ph

Carolina Herrera

Emily M. Orr

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Cher

Amanda M. B. Pajak

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Cher, born Cherilyn Sarkisian on 20 May 1946, is a singer-performer and actress active since the mid-1960s. Her career started as one-half of the folk-rock duo Sonny & Cher with her then husband, Sonny Bono (1935–1998). After gaining commercial success with their songs—the most impactful being “I Got You Babe” (1965)—the duo embraced the television media format with The Sonny & Cher Comedy Hour, which existed in multiple incarnations throughout the decade. It was during the airing of this televis

Social Media as a Tool for Social Change

Domenica Peterson

Source: Sustainable Fashion What’s Next?. A Conversation about Issues, Practices and Possibilities, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

DOMENICA PETERSON is a garment industry executive whose positions have concentrated on building coalitions within the sustainable fashion industry as well as educating companies and consumers about the opportunities available for a more sustainable world through better practices in apparel production and consumption. In 2010 she cofounded the non-profit Global Action Through Fashion (GATF) with the vision to create a more equitable and sustainable world through fashion, and in 2014 Domenica launc

Gucci

Vanessa Semmens

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Costume National

Shari Sims

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Mugler

Laura Snelgrove

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Naomi Campbell

Stephanie Talbot

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Naomi Campbell is a leading British model. She became a cover girl before she was sixteen and was soon being hired by the biggest names in fashion. Campbell appeared on an iconic monochrome cover of British Vogue with Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, and Tatjana Patitz in January 1990. This collective had reached the rank of “supermodel,” cementing their pulling power and defining a fashion history moment. Famously, Campbell, who is of African-Jamaican descent, has been the

Shalom Harlow

Stephanie Talbot

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Shalom Harlow is a leading model and actress, born in Canada. She started modeling straight out of high school with local bookings, then relocated to Paris and began to accrue high-profile assignments. Her timing was good as she was said to have the era’s “new look,” and quite suddenly her career progressed meteorically. She is known in the industry for her dark hair, flawless skin, and self-assured deportment and became a favorite of design houses Dior, Valentino haute couture, Alberta Ferretti,

Cindy Crawford

Stephanie Talbot

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Cindy Crawford is a leading American model, actress, television host, entrepreneur, and businesswoman. She began modeling at sixteen, and in 1986 signed with the main New York agency of Elite Model Management, thus catapulting her career. Crawford’s thirty-year reign as a supermodel and a household name has been varied, extensive, and illustrious. She is the epitome of fashion powerhouse turned empire, a model who seized business opportunities and simultaneously turned herself into a brand.

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