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Exotic Narratives in Fashion: The Impact of Motifs of Exotica on Fashion Design and Fashionable Identities

Jennifer Craik

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In the context of exploring the prevalence of exotica in fashion, Jennifer Craik investigates the use of Indigenous Aboriginal motifs in Australian fashion and textiles. Furthermore, she argues that this occurs in a cyclical process of acclamation followed by renunciation coinciding with periodic displays of, and debates about, national identity. Increasingly, nationalism is being defined through the sophisticated blending of indigenous and ‘Australiana’ inspirations in colourful textiles, fashio

Introduction

M. Angela Jansen and Jennifer Craik

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

fashiondiscourselegacyAbby Lillethun, Linda Welters, and Joanne Eicher (2012: 76) argue in their article (Re)Defining Fashion that socialSocial socialDarwinismDarwinism, in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, is at the origin of the embedding of perceived ownershipownership of fashion in Western Europeancultureurbanculturewesterncultureculture. Social Darwinism’s paradigm, they argue, included a hierarchical construct of human typologies shaped by Westerners, which, therefore, positione

Conclusion: Future Directions And Possibilities in Footwear Studies

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

I initially came to Japan as a teacher. I wanted to be here because there are great sneakers in Japan. Then friends back home started asking me to buy some pairs that are found only in Japan. I started getting so many orders, and I became so busy that I had to quit my teaching job. I now buy and sell sneakers full-time in Tokyo.

Academic Research on Footwear

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Human beings have been covering their feet and wearing some form of footwear for centuries. While there are countless accounts on who created the first shoes or why/where they were first made, the primary common reason for wearing shoes was to protect feet from an unpleasant or dangerous natural environment. For instance, an American sailor’s shoe in the nineteenth century was made out of hemp cord because it provided traction even when it was wet, and double rubber-walled insulated boots were ma

Afterword: Fashion’s Fallacy

Sandra Niessen

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Employing a play on the term ‘Orientalism’, Sandra Niessen argues that fashion studies have been knee-capped by the lack of a sanguine theoretical lens that can dispassionately interrogate the fashion impulse. Instead, she argues, fashion theory has been co-opted by the assumptions and ideologies that underpin the phenomenon of fashion. Niessen argues that the dichotomy between fashion (= Western) and non-fashion (= Non-Western) is a ‘mystification’ and a ‘buy-in’. Rather, analysts should underst

“Fashion” in the Chinese Context

Christine Tsui

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Christine Tsui adopts a textual analysis framework to explore the history of the concept of fashion in China. Undertaking a detailed and comprehensive analysis of dictionaries and other linguistic sources, Tsui argues that the adoption of an expression to refer to fashion dynamics in China long predated cultural interactions with Europe. Whereas the concept of fashion was not used in Europe until the sixteenth-century, several words were used in Chinese as early as the eighth century. By the elev

Zoomorphic Brooches in Roman Britain: Decoration or Religious Ideology?

Lindsay Allason-Jones

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Secular Fashion In Israel

Oz Almog

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

national dress/costumeSabraIsrael, twentieth centuryIn national images depicting the early years of the State of Israel, the word “fashion” is deliberately associated with the unkempt pioneering sabra look: khakikhaki shorts and blue shirts characteristic of the socialist youth movements, pinafores and rubashka shirts influenced by Eastern European style, Bedouin kaffiyahkaffiyahs, biblical sandals, and dome-shaped caps known as kova tembel. To a large extent, this look became Israel’s national m

How Muslim Women Dress in Israel

Oz Almog

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Islamic/Muslim dressIn order to understand fully Muslim female dress in Israel, some basic concepts will be clarified here. Islam, like most other religions, regulates the behavior of its believers.Linda B. Arthur ed., “Introduction,” Religion, Dress and the Body, Oxford and NY: Berg, 1999, p. 1. Like other faiths, its legal code lays down rules regarding the related fields of clothing and sexuality.Steele, Valerie, Fashion and Eroticism, Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the Victorian Era to the Ja

Feminist Ideologies in Postmodern Japanese Fashion: Rei Kawakubo Meets Marie Antoinette in Downtown Tokyo

Ory Bartal

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In the 1970s, the modernistic social paradigm collapsed in many post-industrial countries. In Japan, it resulted in the falling apart of the homogeneous culture that hailed collectivism. Various groups began to form. In 1970s Tokyo, the Karasu-Zoku (raven tribe) emerged as a parallel to the British Punk movement. Alongside the karasu-zoku was the an-non-zoku, a young and fashionable “tribe” consisting of women who enjoyed reading the mass communicationmagazinesmagazines an-an and non-no. The idea

Visual Merchandising Careers

Judy Bell and Kate Ternus

Source: Silent Selling. Best Practices and Effective Strategies in Visual Merchandising, 5th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Do what you love. As you begin to think about your professional career, consider that you want your work to bring you a psychological reward as well as a paycheck. If you are going to spend forty or more hours each week in the workplace, why not spend it in a career that is engaging and fun? Why not get involved in something that you have a passion for, and enjoy?

Digital Disruption of the Fashion Industry

Wendy K. Bendoni

Source: Social Media For Fashion Marketing. Storytelling in a Digital World, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The business of fashion has undergone a revolution in the digital age of social media. It has democratized, disrupted, and even shifted the business model of the traditional fashion system. Most fashion industry veterans barely recognize the industry from a decade ago and continue to adapt to the emergence of new technologies and their influence on the new fashion consumer. This transition is not limited to marketing and management, but permeates to the core of design itself. While blogs and soci

Introduction to the Digital Landscape

Wendy K. Bendoni

Source: Social Media For Fashion Marketing. Storytelling in a Digital World, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The evolution of the Internet over the past two decades has paved the way for social media networks to capitalize on today’s hyper-connected world. Social media is all about capturing and sharing the in-the-moment updates, and delivering the message of “real time” (live stories). Digital innovation continues to influence the expectations of marketers, managers, and consumers alike. In the previous chapter, we explored how the digital landscape disrupted the traditional fashion industry and forged

The Rise of the Hyperconnected Consumer

Wendy K. Bendoni

Source: Social Media For Fashion Marketing. Storytelling in a Digital World, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

With over three billion Internet users and two billion social media users, it is no wonder that there is a shift in the behavior of consumers with the connected world around them (Kemp, 2015). Consumers continue to embrace these connections at accelerated rates through the adoption of mobile applications, social media communities, and the Internet itself. In this chapter, we will investigate these new connected consumers to see how they have adopted digital/social networks as part of their everyd

Digital Storytelling

Wendy K. Bendoni

Source: Social Media For Fashion Marketing. Storytelling in a Digital World, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In order for a brand to efficiently engage with their audience on social media they must be able to curate, share and convey their story. To show measureable results in real-time social space, marketers (social media strategists) must first develop and convey a strong media story about a brand. Storytelling is critical; it enables the consumer to experience different elements of that brand. In this chapter, we will explore a changing of the narrative, from brands being the storytellers to consume

Strategic Marketing in the Digital Age

Wendy K. Bendoni

Source: Social Media For Fashion Marketing. Storytelling in a Digital World, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In this chapter, we will take a closer look at social media marketing’s role in integrated marketing communication strategies, social influence marketing, and affiliate alliances. Through interviews with digital and marketing industry leaders, we will learn the steps involved in the planning stages of a digital strategy and the growth of influencer power. We will also evaluate how brands and retailers approach strategy development, execution, and assessment of their marketing efforts across multi

The Evolving Measurable Impact of Social Media

Wendy K. Bendoni

Source: Social Media For Fashion Marketing. Storytelling in a Digital World, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Throughout this textbook, we have explored the theory and practice of digital and social media marketing. In this chapter we turn to experts working in the industry to give us further insight into the fields of search engine optimization (SEO), search engine marketing (SEM), and data contextualization. This chapter will evaluate how the industry is challenging new technologies, developing stronger data set algorithms, and changing the way brands market to consumers as a whole. We will also examin

Fashion and Feminism

Henriette Dahan-Kalev and Shoshana-Rose Marzel

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

civil rightsgenderDuring the French Revolution, dress became an important issue: one of the ways in which revolutionaries’ values were to be obtained and symbolized was through the adoption of class-less styles of clothing, which expressed the ideals of Fraternity, Liberty, and Equality.

Sartorial Boundaries on the Chinese Frontier

Antonia Finnane

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

I return home and see my kin …

Haute Couture and Tailoring

Anette Fischer and Kiran Gobin

Source: Construction for Fashion Design, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Translated literally from French into English, the phrase “haute couture” means “sewing at a high level.” Couturiers use only the finest and most luxurious fabrics. Sometimes these have been custom made. A couture garment is meant to fit flawlessly as a result of many fittings and will include perfectly designed proportions for the individual client. Adjustments are made on garments to balance the body shape of the customer. These can include changes to the collar, the proportions of the pockets

Fashion and online marketing

Clare Harris

Source: The Fundamentals of Digital Fashion Marketing, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

While the simplicity of Facebook makes it accessible for a range of fashion practitioners, a website is probably still the most important piece of a fashion marketer’s online toolkit and how it is built will have an impact on its usability and search engine optimization (SEO).

Menswear Through the Ages

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

It is only the modern that ever becomes old-fashioned.

Design Research and Inspiration

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

You can say that designing is quite easy; the difficulty lies in finding a new way to explore beauty.

Sportswear, Knit, and Print

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Men's fashions all start as sports clothes and progress to the great occasions of state. The tail coat, which started out as a hunting coat, is just finishing such a journey. The tracksuit is just beginning one.

Design Development for Menswear

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

A man should look as if he’s bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and forgotten all about them.

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