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Trend Details for Business

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

VetementsMacy’sClose-to-selling-seasonCamouflageanalysisBurberry In this chapter we will explore what information should be gathered from catwalks, street styling and trade shows. These three areas form the basis for a wellrounded trend analysis, which can serve as a starting point for a longer-term trend forecast. Catwalks are usually considered near-season analysis, which is used by companies that want to understand the current state of the menswear business.

How to Research Trends

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In trend forecasting we are not initially researching one particular area of interest, but gathering information on as many areas as possible. Even in fashion, one needs to be aware of what is happening in areas as diverse as politics and the economy. These areas are intertwined and ultimately influence fashion. Politics directly influences society and economics, which will ultimately influence spending. At times of economic uncertainty, spending goes down and also becomes more concentrated on es

Introduction to fashion forecasting

Chelsea Rousso and Nancy Kaplan Ostroff

Source: Fashion Forward. A Guide to Fashion Forecasting, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Morrison, RoseanneRoseanne Morrison, discordant fashionFashion Director of Womenswear and Ready-to-Wear, Doneger Creative Services

Brief history of contemporary fashion

Chelsea Rousso and Nancy Kaplan Ostroff

Source: Fashion Forward. A Guide to Fashion Forecasting, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The “spirit of the times,” or zeitgeistzeitgeist, refers to the current state of culture: the expression of the present. The mode of an era is determined by a complex mixture of historical, social, psychological, and aesthetic factors. During each era, creative artists and designers are inspired by current influences that they interpret into innovative ideas and products. It is not surprising that there are commonalities that influence an era. New aesthetics, newaesthetics can often be found in v

Digital Disruption of the Fashion Industry

Wendy K. Bendoni

Source: Social Media For Fashion Marketing. Storytelling in a Digital World, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The business of fashion has undergone a revolution in the digital age of social media. It has democratized, disrupted, and even shifted the business model of the traditional fashion system. Most fashion industry veterans barely recognize the industry from a decade ago and continue to adapt to the emergence of new technologies and their influence on the new fashion consumer. This transition is not limited to marketing and management, but permeates to the core of design itself. While blogs and soci

Design Research and Inspiration

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

You can say that designing is quite easy; the difficulty lies in finding a new way to explore beauty.

Eight: The Retro-Branding of American Heritage: Levi Strauss & Co.

Joseph H. Hancock

Source: Brand Story. Cases and Explorations in Fashion Branding, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There is a common mistaken notion that Levi Strauss invented denim jeans while working in a gold mine in California. Actually, Levi Strauss was born of German Jewish immigrants in 1829. At the age of eighteen, he and his two sisters moved to the United States to join his two brothers, who had started a wholesale dry goods business in New York City called J. Strauss Brothers & Co. Later Levi Strauss moved to Louisville, Kentucky, to sell his brothers’ dry goods.

Camouflage on the Catwalk

Ariel Beaujot

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The camouflage pattern that is so ubiquitous in Western clothing styles was developed to hide machinery during World War I; it only became a pattern for clothing for troops in World War II. “Camo” is key for war because it helps items blend into the background and it disrupts the shape of forms. Largely because of Army Surplus Stores, camo became a pattern used in street fashion in the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. The meaning of camo in this period varied from antiwar protest to a reconnection with n

The Look: Design Concepts And Style Directions

Evelyn L. Brannon and Lorynn Divita

Source: Fashion Forecasting, 4th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

In fashion you are supposed to hate what you have loved before. I cannot do that.

Stephen Sprouse, Fall/Winter 1988

Lorynn Divita

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Stephen Sprouse was a pioneer in merging street style and high fashion. During his early career at Halston, he was drawn to the downtown New York punk scene. Working with Keith Haring, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Andy Warhol, his fall/winter collection of 1988 had all of the hallmarks of a Sprouse collection, with Day-Glo fabrics, sheath dresses, and bold graffiti prints. It was also Sprouse’s last collection for a decade. Stephen’s career flourished again at the end of his life thanks to his famou

Red or Dead

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Anna Sui

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Marithé + François Girbaud (house)

Sandra J. Ley

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Photographing Street Style: Bill Cunningham and Beyond

Brent Luvaas

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Whether started by New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham, or extending much further back, street-style photography has become an increasingly influential medium within the global fashion industry, with hundreds of bloggers now documenting the real-time trends of “real people” throughout the globe. But as the breadth and influence of street style grew between the 1970s and the mid-2000s, its practitioners stuck steadfastly to a set of common photographic conventions, investing street style w

Street Style: A Brief History

Brent Luvaas

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Over the last couple of decades, the meaning of the term “street style,” both within and outside of the fashion industry, has shifted profoundly from a description of the urban subcultural styles that emerged out of “the street” to those ordinary—but still stylish—forms of dress worn by “real people” in their everyday lives, to, finally, just another genre of fashion photography that captures the looks of fashion insiders outside runway shows. This article provides a brief history of the concept

Marc Jacobs, Spring/Summer 1995

Hayley-Jane Mazières

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

When the American designer Marc Jacobs appeared on New York’s fashion scene, in 1986, after graduating from the Parsons School of Design, he promptly attracted the attention of the fashion press, which praised his playful yet sophisticated streetwear. During his appointment as Perry Ellis’s creative director from 1988, he dared to launch a groundbreaking grunge collection in 1992—the press loved it; Perry Ellis executives loathed it—and he was publicly suspended from his assignment. Nonetheless,

Contemporary Fashion Practice in Urban India

Arti Sandhu

Source: Indian Fashion. Tradition, Innovation, Style, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

economic liberalization, India’semergence of new public spaces in urban IndiaLast Sunday I visited a nearby water theme park with my family and a family in the neighbourhood. We thoroughly enjoyed the day playing in water and going on scary rides… But always I am confused what dress I should wear in such places. My husband told me to put on a cotton three-fourth pants and tee shirt. I felt very comfortable in the water in that dress... Some orthodox Muslim women were in Burqa and I was wondering

Reel to Real Life: Re-Fashioning India from Bollywood to Street

Arti Sandhu

Source: Indian Fashion. Tradition, Innovation, Style, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Cinema in India is an extremely influential cultural medium. India has the world’s largest film industry with over 1,000 films produced every year in more than 20 languagesIbid. and over 14 million Indians go to the movies on a daily basis.In 2008 the industry was valued at approximately US$2.2 billion, and expected to grow by 9 percent p.a. till 2015 (Deloitte 2011 report: “Media & Entertainment in India Digital Road Ahead.” www.deloitte.com/in [accessed June 4, 2013]) Many more watch them at ho

Desi-Chic: The Image and Ideals of Fashion in Indian Magazines

Arti Sandhu

Source: Indian Fashion. Tradition, Innovation, Style, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The evolution of a distinctive visual identity within the local fashion design industry that responds to Indian tastes, traditions and crafts, along with the presence of international fashion brands in India have not only led to a shift in the sartorial landscape, they have also had an impact on the image and representation of fashion. This was evident in the discussion over the previous chapter with regard to film, television and emerging spheres of fashion blogging, and is also mirrored in prin

Skinheads

Else Skjold

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The skinhead style emerged in the 1960s in London as a fusion between “rude boy” style and “mod” style, and is as such a subgenre of the working-class street style that emerged after World War II. The name of the style refers to the characteristic shaved hairdo, which is often associated with racism and violence. But actually, the style is a characteristic example of the bridging between black and white cultures that goes back decades, even hundreds of years, in Western menswear. Stylistically, i

Ray Petri

Rebecca Straub

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

An influential stylist before the term was coined, Ray Petri (born 1948, Scotland) created images of youth culture at a moment when street style first entered the realm of commercialization and mass consumption. Working for publications like The Face and i-D, he cast a diverse group of teens rather than trained models to usher in a new age of fashion imagery. Pouty boys painted orange appear in button-down denim and ski caps—one of his many subversive takes on sportswear—to create a new look cut

1970s Style: Key Themes and Trends

Jo Turney

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The 1970s established fashion as performance, an element of cultures of display in which the street became catwalk (and vice versa), fusing fashion with media such as music, dance, film, and art. It was a decade of imagination and individuality, resulting from newfound social and personal freedoms (Tom Wolfe dubbed it the “Me” decade) which combined with a sartorial knowingness created a new confidence in the presentation of the self—anything was possible and the only limits were of one’s imagina

Bibliographic guide

Western subcultural style uses the dressed body as a place of social critique and artistic expression that does not follow the conventions of mainstream style. Subcultural dress can also demonstrate lifestyle and community participation, as well as individual experiences that pertain to the subcultural interests. Scholarship on the dress practices of punk, goth, hip-hop, hippie, and other underground lifestyles has shown that subcultural dress can be a catalyst for change in the mainstream fashio, Berg Fashion Library

Here Comes New Man—Again

Paul Jobling

Source: Advertising Menswear. Masculinity and Fashion in the British Media since 1945, 2014, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Specialized Portfolios: Diverse Market Segments

Joanne Ciresi Barrett

Source: Designing Your Fashion Portfolio. From Concept to Presentation, 2013, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

What makes a portfolio specialized? Reference the specializations listed in Chapter 4 for consideration. Chapter 5 presents the details of research and execution needed to make your specialized portfolio feature practical, applied, functional details to suit the client’s needs for several categories: accessories, activewear, bridal, costume, eco/green apparel, intimate apparel, millinery, swimwear, T-shirts, technical design, and urban streetwear.

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