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Fashion and Feminism

Henriette Dahan-Kalev and Shoshana-Rose Marzel

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present 2017

Book chapter

civil rightsgenderDuring the French Revolution, dress became an important issue: one of the ways in which revolutionaries’ values were to be obtained and symbolized was through the adoption of class-less styles of clothing, which expressed the ideals of Fraternity, Liberty, and Equality.

Dsquared2

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Michael Kors

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Hip-Hop

Shayla Corinne Black

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Hip-hop is a multifaceted genre of twentieth-century music, whose influence has expanded from the streets to the runway. It is a global phenomenon embraced by millions. Hip-hop began in the Bronx, New York and was forged by black youth as a form of artistic expression. Groups like Run-D.M.C. were iconic with their trademarks: Adidas sneakers, tracksuits, bucket hats, and gold rope chains. The fashion world avidly participated by appropriating the bright colors, athletic wear, loose-fitting garmen

Oscar De la Renta

Amber Jane Butchart

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Dress, Self-Fashioning and Display at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum

Christine Guth

Source: Dress History. New Directions in Theory and Practice 2015

Book chapter

Isabella Stewart Gardner negotiated a prominent public position for herself in Boston through the establishment of a museum that promoted a different attitude towards art than those founded with the aim of educating the public. She assembled her collection as an individual, producing a competing, but equally ideologically motivated account of what she regarded as art. Her collection embraced the cultures of Europe and Asia, but also gave recognition to products of female craft such as lace. While

Monique Lhuillier

Stephanie Edith Herold

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Edie Sedgwick

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

In the canon of fashion tastemakers, Edie Sedgwick remains both a legend and a mystery. In her short twenty-eight years, the Santa Barbara, California native was a socialite, heiress, artist, actress, model, New York scenester, and 1965’s anointed “Girl of the Year.” From her affiliation with Andy Warhol and the artistic community of the Factory to her collaboration with designer Betsey Johnson, to her stints as a model for Vogue, Sedgwick’s contribution to the world of fashion was undoubtedly a

Debbie Harry

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The veritable godmother of new wave music, Debbie Harry’s impact on the world of fashion is perhaps tantamount to her musical legacy. The lead singer of pioneering band Blondie, Harry brought a unique sense of glamour and sophistication to New York’s punk scene that emerged within the city’s seedy Bowery neighborhood in the 1970s. A female performer immersed in the primarily male environment of the legendary rock venue CBGB, Harry’s trailblazing musical persona was a paradoxical combination of el

Kim Gordon

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

As the sole female member of the pioneering New York alternative rock band, Sonic Youth, Kim Gordon’s personal style emerged out of her desire to perform on the same physical level as her male band mates, while simultaneously conveying her unique female perspective. Upon forming Sonic Youth in 1981 with musician and future husband Thurston Moore, Gordon’s style transformed into a preppy-girl-meets-tomboy fashion aesthetic. Countless designers, ranging from Marc Jacobs to Kate and Laura Mulleavy o

Isaac Mizrahi

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Stephen Sprouse

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Anna Sui

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Donna Karan

Sandra J. Ley

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Giorgio Armani

Nanna Marie Lund

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Betsey Johnson, Spring/Summer 1986

Veronica Maldonado

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Presented at the Palladium nightclub in New York City, Betsey Johnson’s spring/summer 1986 collection depended on many of her signature tropes—her usual use of romantic stylings such as petticoats, crinolines, bustiers, and lace combine with kitschy accessories like kitchen utensils, baggie boxes as hats, baby bottle earrings, and feather dusters, creating a look that teases ideas of the feminine—the romantic femininity of the materials and silhouettes mixes with the traditionally female role of

Marc Jacobs, Spring/Summer 1995

Hayley-Jane Mazières

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

When the American designer Marc Jacobs appeared on New York’s fashion scene, in 1986, after graduating from the Parsons School of Design, he promptly attracted the attention of the fashion press, which praised his playful yet sophisticated streetwear. During his appointment as Perry Ellis’s creative director from 1988, he dared to launch a groundbreaking grunge collection in 1992—the press loved it; Perry Ellis executives loathed it—and he was publicly suspended from his assignment. Nonetheless,

Beyond The Gardenia: Billie Holiday

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion and Jazz. Dress, identity and subcultural improvisation 2015

Book chapter

Holiday, Billieinfluence of Hollywoodstyleof Billie HolidayHoliday, Billiedress/style ofOn April 7, 1915, Eleanora Fagan, who would later become known as Billie Holiday, was born in Philadelphia to Sadie, a single mother. This simple event did not foreshadow the star that would suddenly shine bright and burn out within a few decades. In Baltimore, Fagan’s Holiday, Billieearly yearsearly years included a laboring mother, an absent father, truancy, rape by a neighbor and time at an institution for

Philadelphia Nightlife, Nostalgia and Popular Culture

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion and Jazz. Dress, identity and subcultural improvisation 2015

Book chapter

vaudeville entertainmentsminstrel entertainmentAlthough New Orleans, New York and Chicago flourished with neighborhoods of jazz including Storyville, Harlem and the South Side correspondingly, Philadelphia, jazz cityPhiladelphia is a setting where innovators and establishments shaped a noteworthy history. The documentation of entertainment outlets was evidenced at the end of the first decade. From 1910 to 1919, society, political and religious groups promoted balls, dances and concerts via the Ph

An Ivy Boy and A Preppy Girl: Style Import-Export

Masafumi Monden

Source: Japanese Fashion Cultures. Dress and gender in contemporary Japan 2015

Book chapter

Taking great care of appearance is the first step of every fashion.

Carolina Herrera

Emily M. Orr

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Mark Eisen

Emily M. Orr

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

‘At Once Classical and Modern’: Raymond Duncan Dress and Textiles in the Royal Ontario Museum

Alexandra Palmer

Source: Dress History. New Directions in Theory and Practice 2015

Book chapter

I first learned about Raymond Duncan from a lecture on men in togas given by Lou Taylor in the mid-1980s. She showed an astonishing image from the turn of the century of a man walking along the banks of the Seine wearing a draped toga, sandals and pushing an enormous black perambulator. I was flabbergasted, not only by his appearance, but also by the fact that I had not heard nor read about such a colourful character during my years studying art, fashion and textile history. Since seeing his text

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