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Suits You: Men and Tweed, 1919–1952

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Following the First World War, as Jenkins, DavidJenkins clarifies, there was an immediate boom in the wool textiles trade, which for a brief period generated high profits and labor demand.DavidJenkins, “Wool Textiles in the Twentieth Century,” in DavidJenkins, The Cambridge History of Western Textiles, II (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003), p. 995. In the company history of Crombie, J. & J. (company)J. & J. Crombie of Aberdeen these developments are described as follows: there was a tr

Fashion law for a global industry

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

This text will analyze the legal framework governing this global industry, as well as the parties to whom the law applies. Through an examination of the breadth of participants and laws, one can begin to understand the complexity of both the fashion business and the laws governing its operations as multiple legal obligations imposed by different government administrative agenciesadministrative agenciesimporting(which are governmental bodies with the authority to implement and administer particula

Marketing compliance for the fashion industry

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The US Federal Trade CommissionFederal Trade Commission (FTC) governs the prevention of unfair or deceptive acts or practices, which includes print and online advertising, marketing, and sales messaging. Setting both the guidelines and parameters for determining when a marketing claim would be considered deceptive, the FTC also has enforcement powers to penalize those marketers and advertisers whose content it concludes is deceptive to the average consumer.

Importing fashion merchandise

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

importingglobal systemIf you look around the average American household today you will quickly discover that most of the articles there are from other countries. You would find the same result when examining the labels on your wearing apparel and may even realize that 100 percent of your clothes have been imported with much of it from China, as the 2015 dollar value in apparel imports from China alone totaled $30,540,941,000.http://otexa.trade.gov/msrcty/v5700.htm (viewed on August 23, 2016).

Exporting for the fashion industry

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

A rise in an awareness of the importance of reshoring has been especially noticeable in the fashion industry, and particularly so within cities which had enjoyed historical economic prominence thanks to the industry. One such example is that of New York CityNew York City, where several notable facilities have opened up to support local garment manufacturing and fashion innovation such as the Brooklyn Design + Fashion Accelerator of Pratt College, and Manufacture NY.

Wearers and Wardrobes

Sheila Cliffe

Source: The Social Life of Kimono. Japanese Fashion Past and Present, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Wardrobe(s)Wardrobe(s)wardrobe studiesThe fashion fashionsystemsystem is realized in the creation of the fashion items, and in their diffusion to the public through mediamedia images. However, a fashion system does not exist without fashion leaders and followers. If there are no wearers, then there is no fashion. This chapter investigates kimono wearing practice through a wardrobe survey of kimono wearerskimono wearers, discussion of kimono group(s)groups, and also through interviews with kimono

Controlling Inventories

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

shrinkage,perpetual control system,inventory control systems,After deciding on the merchandise assortment that is to be carried, inventory control systems must be established. These controls involve the maintenance of stock levels in relation to changing consumer demand. The type of inventory control system used by a retailer will vary by type and size of the business and the kind and amount of information required. Inventory control for a department, such as hardware with thousands of different

Making Market Visits and Negotiating with Vendors

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

market visits. negotiationpreparing for,Most buyers begin searching for merchandise in domestic markets because of their closeness and accessibility. However, lower costs are the primary reason that buyers seek out appropriate foreign markets today. As they prepare for trips to either foreignmarket visits. negotiationtypes of markets,Garment District (New York City),or domestic markets, buyers will typically findcentral market,central markets, merchandise/apparel marts, and expositions/trade show

Locating Sources in Foreign Markets

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Making the decision to import purchases from foreign sources requires that you prepare yourself for entering the global marketplace. Learn as much as you can about the people,brands generics,merchandise,merchandise quality of,global marketplace choosing the right sources,identifying reasons to buy from,buying,benefits of foreign sources,the culture, and the retailing practices of any country that you are considering as a foreign source. Possibly even learn a new language or at least a few key phr

Sneakers as A Subculture: Emerging From Underground to Upperground

Yuniya Kawamura

Source: Sneakers. Fashion, Gender, and Subculture, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

It [subculture] has come to signify the twentieth-century category for youth groups who possess some sort of marked style and shared affiliations. Whereas sociologists use the term to describe an infinitely wider array of groups—sport fishermen, West Texas Baptists, or toy train hobbyists—“subculture” is more popularly used to characterize groups of young people. (Clark 2003: 223, footnote 2)

Trend Forecasters—Fashion’s “Insurance Companies”

Jenny Lantz

Source: The Trendmakers. Behind the Scenes of the Global Fashion Industry, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

We used to say that if you can find areas of fear, uncertainty and doubt, that’s a sign that you should study them more closely. (Neil Bradford, CEO (2008–2009), WGSNWGSN)

Travelling the Street Style Blogosphere: Amateur Anthropology from Around the Globe

Brent Luvaas

Source: Street Style. An Ethnography of Fashion Blogging, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

‘People urban cosmopolitanism of Helsinki (Finland)Karjalainen, SampoHel Looks (blog)Helsinki (Finland)urban cosmopolitanism ofHelsinki (Finland)punk rocker culture inHelsinki (Finland)watching has always been my obsession and my hobby’, Liisa Jokinen told me, as we chatted in June of 2012 via the voice-over-internet protocol of Skype. ‘I’ve always been interested in peoples’ clothes, why [they] wear certain things, and the reason behind their outfits, what kinds of stories [go into them]. So it

The Subject(s) of Street Style: Street Portraits as Fashion Singularities

Brent Luvaas

Source: Street Style. An Ethnography of Fashion Blogging, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

What does street Philadelphiastylestyle photography ‘reveal’ about its subjects? What does it show us about who they are, where they are from, and the times they are living in? What hidden meanings does it unearth from the clothes they wear and the styles they embody? What kinds of anthropological knowledge, in other words, can we glean from a street style photograph? If the realism of street style photography is largely performative, a construct of the conventions photographers employ (see Chapt

Scene from the Sidewalk: Shooting Street Style at New York Fashion Week

Brent Luvaas

Source: Street Style. An Ethnography of Fashion Blogging, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In a Fashion Weekspectacle ofnow infamous New York Times T Magazine editorial entitled ‘The Circus of Fashion’, veteran fashion journalist Suzy Menkes, SuzyMenkes reminiscences about the relative austerity that used to define her industry. ‘We were once described as “black crows”, she writes, ‘ – us fashion folk gathered outside an abandoned, crumbling downtown building in a uniform of Comme des Garçons or Yohji Yamamoto, YohjiYamamoto. “Whose funeral is it?” passers-by would whisper with a mix o

Exhibit and Trade Show Design

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

balancedefinedexhibits types ofExhibits are designed to showcase objects or collections with the purpose of stimulating interest and educating viewers about a particular product, idea, or organization. And while the exhibit itself is organized and orchestrated for enjoyment, enlightenment, and experience, it may also be used to market and advertise a sponsor.

Visual Merchandise Planning

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

visual merchandising planningstore planner andVisual merchvisual merchandising planningcolors andandise planning can mean different things to different people working in retail. visual merchandising planningdirectives forvisual merchandising planningplanograms forFor buyers, merchants, and store management, visual merchandising directivemerchandising is about metricsvisual merchandising planningmetrics ofmetrics or the average revenue a retailer generates for every square foot of sales space. ROI

Community and Experiential Stores

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

As discussed in Chapter 24, the rules and formulas for store planning are changing. Consumers no longer need to go to a physical store to buy products, and as a result, the strategies for designing stores are no longer the same. Today’s retail strategies revolve around consumer engagement, experiences, and placemaking. It is clear that yesterday’s retail hallmarks of “comfort and convenience” are easily found by shopping online, so store designers have added emphasis on establishing new connectio

Punk Style Past and Present

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

leatherbeltshooded sweatshirt (hoodie)craftreconfiguredcolorblackapparelself-identified punkWhat is punk dress and how did it get that way? For some punk style is an obvious reference to green mohawkmohawk hair, a leather jacket, plaid plaidpantspants, and bootscombat bootscombat bootsboots. For others it is an oversized hooded sweatshirt and jeans, clean white shoes, and a wallet accessorychainchain. Some say it is a current caricaturecaricature logosof bandsof a dead movement while others say i

Location Factors

Brenda Sternquist and Elizabeth B. Goldsmith

Source: International Retailing, 3rd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

After studying this chapter, you should be able to:

Retailing in Multinational Markets

Brenda Sternquist and Elizabeth B. Goldsmith

Source: International Retailing, 3rd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

After studying this chapter, you should be able to:

The United States

Brenda Sternquist and Elizabeth B. Goldsmith

Source: International Retailing, 3rd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

After studying this chapter, you should be able to:

Global Fashion Business

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Buying merchandise for a retailer has become a global enterprise, involving planning, organization, and hard work, as well as extensive knowledge of the world's global fashion markets and related trade, import, and export agreements. Our discussion of global marketing and its buyers and sellers begins with understanding how the world's market centers developed and operate. We then discuss how importing, product development, and trade agreements work between the United States and its trading partn

Introduction

Carol Tulloch

Source: The Birth of Cool. Style Narratives of the African Diaspora, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

I once asked my father if it became compulsory for all men to wear flared trousers, what would he do? He replied, “Go in the nuddy [nude]”. I laughed at his response, thinking he was just old fashioned. I must have been about eleven or twelve and my idea of a well-dressed man came in the form of Jimi Hendrix who reigned supreme in such pants. This was the period of revolutionary dress for the young.

“We Also Should Walk in the Newness of Life”: Individualized Harlem Style of the 1930s

Carol Tulloch

Source: The Birth of Cool. Style Narratives of the African Diaspora, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

With the visual arts of the 1920s and 1930s anchored by black peoples, we can recollect and reimagine this twentieth-century moment when Harlem was not only “in vogue”, or “on the minds” of a complacent few, but also a geo-political metaphor for modernity and an icon for an increasingly complex black diasporal presence in the world.

Introduction to the Digital Landscape

Wendy K. Bendoni

Source: Social Media For Fashion Marketing. Storytelling in a Digital World, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The evolution of the Internet over the past two decades has paved the way for social media networks to capitalize on today’s hyper-connected world. Social media is all about capturing and sharing the in-the-moment updates, and delivering the message of “real time” (live stories). Digital innovation continues to influence the expectations of marketers, managers, and consumers alike. In the previous chapter, we explored how the digital landscape disrupted the traditional fashion industry and forged

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