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The Basic Bodice

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Shoulder/waistline dart bodiceFitted waist seam bodiceShoulder/waist dart bodiceDart bodiceBodice sloper, basic;When a manufacturer develops a new clothing line, one of the first requirements is a set of foundation patterns (blocks or slopers). These foundation patterns should match the proportion, size, and fit of the target customer. They also provide the designer and manufacturer with a consistent fit, silhouette, ease allowance, armhole size, waistline measurement, and desired length.

The Basic Fitted Skirt

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

A basic fitted two-dart straight skirt is a fitted skirt with side seams parallel to the center of the skirt. The center front and center back are on perfect grain and the hip-level lines are on perfect crossgrain, allowing the area below the hip line to hang straight up and down. This skirt has a fitted waist area in which the excess fabric above the hip line is controlled by waistline darts. This skirt is considered the most important of all skirt drapes because of its versatility in creating m

Sleeves

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesSleeves, basicbasic sloperA sleeve is a section of the garment that covers the arm. The sleeve usually joins the garment in a seam that encircles the arm over the shoulder. The sleeve is “set into the armhole,” thus the term. The grainline in the middle of the sleeve should fall slightly forward, following the curvature of the arm.

Pants

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesPantsbasic two-dart draftTwo-dart pantsPantsAs requested by many professors, the following pages are directions for drafting the most commonly used pant in lieu of draping. This draft is the industry standard and is the easiest method to create correctly fitting pants and use as a guide in creating various designs and pant drapes. The basic pants for woven fabrics are the basic two-dart pant and the jeans pant. From these basics, many other designs can be create

Cowl Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Cowl designsA cowl features deliciously draped necklines or underarm areas that have falling, soft folds. Cowls are draped on the bias, usually in lighter, finer fabrics to enhance a soft, harmonious look. A Bodice and blouse designscowl blousecowl blouse or dress design can be draped subtly or to add imaginative zing to an otherwise low-key garment. When draping a cowl design, the drape should be done in the same fabric weight as the finished design.

Context

Pat Parish

Source: Pattern Cutting. The Architecture of Fashion, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Pattern cutting computers in,Deconstruction,Blocks,Pattern, defined,A pattern can be described as a two-dimensional representation of a three-dimensional object. In clothing, this would usually take the form of a front and back set of pattern shapes that, when cut in cloth and made up, form the garment. There are many ways to create a pattern, but the conventional way would be to use a set of blocks of a specific size to represent fundamental shapes and sections of the body (such as the bodice, s

Trousers

Pat Parish

Source: Pattern Cutting. The Architecture of Fashion, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Collar Eton,fundamentals,The idea that women were once ‘not allowed’ to wear trousers seems ridiculous now. Although women began to wear trousers early on in the twentieth century, it was really Yves Saint Laurent who made trousers chic and highly fashionable, along with his reworking of ‘the smoking jacket’. Trousers were the domain of male attire as much as skirts were the domain of female attire. In particular, this gendering of clothing was somewhat erased when jeans were adopted by men and w

Children's and Teens' Apparel

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

World War II,Demographics,children’s, tweens’, and teens’ apparel,Baby boom generation,The apparel industry is not the only potential beneficiary of the growing interest in dressing children well. Psychologists believe that clothes play an important role in shaping and guiding a child's self-image. As parents understand the role that clothes play at various stages of a child's growth, they can help to ensure that a child's appearance will enhance his or her striving to become a mature, self-confi

Product Development

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Product development,merchandiser role in,Product development,designer role in,Knock-offs,Anchors,American Apparel and Footwear Association,Product lines of apparel are created and styled for wholesale presentation several times, or seasons, per year. In the fashion industries, a product line is simply called a line. A line encompasses not only the individual item of apparel or accessories but the entire season's production from that manufacturer as well. The term line is used for moderate- and po

Global Women's Apparel

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Children's apparel,history of,For thousands of years, people made their own clothes, often even producing the raw materials and converting them into textiles with which they could sew. Until the mass manufacturing of clothing began, sewing was considered women's work, except for the clothing of the wealthy man, who wore “bespoke” handmade garments from a male tailor who specialized in men's high-fashion apparel.

Flats and Specs

Linda Tain

Source: Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers. Fourth Edition, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Creating good-looking, well-proportioned flats by hand takes practice. Designers who constantly draw flats claim that, with time, they acquire consistency in technique and speed in execution. The following exercises, techniques, and supply list are designed to assist the beginner, intermediate, and advanced student in drawing flats by hand. Later in the chapter, creating flats using Illustrator will be discussed and compared.

Getting Started

Anette Fischer and Kiran Gobin

Source: Construction for Fashion Design, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Working with the right tools will make block and pattern construction easier. These are just some of the key pieces of equipment required.

Pattern Cutting

Anette Fischer and Kiran Gobin

Source: Construction for Fashion Design, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

This is the point at which pattern cutting becomes much more creative and exciting. Once the design has been completed, the process of breathing life into a flat design drawing in order to achieve an actual garment can begin. To be able to achieve a beautiful garment shape takes time and experience. Remember, nothing ever happens without practicing your skills—don’t be disheartened if it doesn’t work first time round. All outstanding fashion designers and creative pattern cutters have worked for

Translating Concept to Product

Sandra Keiser, Deborah Vandermar and Myrna B. Garner

Source: Beyond Design. The Synergy of Apparel Product Development, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

“Ideas are magical only when they become real and can be appreciated and analyzed. A sketch translated into a sample garment is the realization of an idea. But it becomes complete only when the garment unites with a body moving in space.”

Sizing and Fit Specifications

Sandra Keiser, Deborah Vandermar and Myrna B. Garner

Source: Beyond Design. The Synergy of Apparel Product Development, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

“In analyzing how my competitors communicate fit, I saw a place, an opportunity where we could first use models that have more average size figures and also develop a size chart that is easily understandable . . . I want to gain trust and loyalty with our customer base.”

Merchandise Planning

David Shaw and Dimitri Koumbis

Source: Fashion Buying. From Trend Forecasting to Shop Floor, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Merchandise planners have to gauge daily, weekly, and seasonal demand for what is probably one of the most difficult consumer products to predict. This difficulty arises from a number of factors, of which the need to successfully monitor and control stock is perhaps the most significant. If a fashion business has too little stock, it will potentially lose sales to competitors; on the other hand, if it has too much stock, it will have invested buying money that is effectively “dead.”

Fashion Apparel Women’s, Men’s, Children’s, and Teen’s

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: In Fashion, 3rd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Of necessity, the women’s, men’s, children’s, and teens’ fashion industry exists in a constant state of change, reacting on an ongoing basis to the consumer’s tastes and styles, to an increasingly global economy, and to new technology. It is an industry that truly thrives on change and novelty.

The Knit Family of Slopers

Julie Cole

Source: Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The sloper system is a method of creating slopers for drafting patterns for garments constructed from stretch knit fabrics. As previously discussed in Chapter 1, in the “How Working with Knits Differs from Working with Wovens” section, slopers for woven fabrics (incorporating dart and ease) cannot be used to draft the patterns for stretch knit fabrics. Stretch knit garments require unique slopers that do not have darts or ease incorporated into the slopers. The fabric’s stretch replaces the darts

Drafting the Hip and Top Foundations

Julie Cole

Source: Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Before you draft hip and top foundations, it is important to have the patternmaking tools required and an understanding of the terminology of the pattern drafting techniques outlined in Chapter 3.

Sizing Knits

Sharon Czachor

Source: Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

What is ease? Ease is the extra amount added to a pattern at the bust, waist, and hips for comfortable fit and wear. Without ease, a garment would not be able to function for its intended purpose. Knit garments don’t require as much garment ease because of the stretch properties in the knit fabric. Stretch woven fabrics have a certain percent of spandex added to the fibers when the fabric is manufactured, which provides a slight amount of stretch or “give” for comfortable wearing. However, a T-sh

Preparing for Success in Apparel Fitting and Alteration

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Achieving a fabulous fit requires a lot of work. It is not just a matter of following a few rules or taking a few measurements. Fitting is a process, with a definite beginning and an end. The classic fitting process is learned. It requires understanding and good judgment. Fitting expertise comes with knowledge backed up by experience. The more you do it, the better you get, as you educate your eye to recognize all of the necessary clues and cues. The fitting process does become familiar, and part

Fitting Standards in Apparel

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Socio-cultural factors influence fit. One culture may teach that good fit means 2 inches of ease in the seat, while another demands 4 inches or more. Still another culture may ban body-conscious silhouettes altogether. Added to that is the fact that fashion trends change with time. Think about skirt hems, as they move from the ankle to mid-calf, to just under the knee, to middle of the knee, thigh high, and higher.

Alternative Methods of Fitting

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

A fitting procedure is really a process that can involve several sessions over a period of time. It is best to keep individual sessions short, and the best way to achieve that is to be prepared and work quickly. It is best to work from the simple to the complex and from the top to the bottom of each garment unit. In all cases, assistance is essential.

Alternative Methods of Pattern Alteration

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Fitting expert Jan Minott wrote on this very topic in 1978, in her text Fitting Commercial Patterns. In Chapter 5 she wrote, “Most of the familiar pattern ‘alteration’ methods handed down from book to book over the years have served to lower the standards of educational clothing courses. They produce poorly fitted garments and are a hindrance to the teacher who tries to make them work…. When alterations that perform poorly continue to be taught, surely it is an injustice to the student.”

Personalized Patterns and Slopers

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

When the left side of the body differs significantly from the right side, the fitting pattern must be duplicated (traced or photocopied), thus creating a pattern for each side of the body. Each side is then altered separately, as necessary (see Figure 7.1).

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