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Pat Parish

Source: Pattern Cutting. The Architecture of Fashion, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Pattern cutting computers in,Deconstruction,Blocks,Pattern, defined,A pattern can be described as a two-dimensional representation of a three-dimensional object. In clothing, this would usually take the form of a front and back set of pattern shapes that, when cut in cloth and made up, form the garment. There are many ways to create a pattern, but the conventional way would be to use a set of blocks of a specific size to represent fundamental shapes and sections of the body (such as the bodice, s

Trousers

Pat Parish

Source: Pattern Cutting. The Architecture of Fashion, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Collar Eton,fundamentals,The idea that women were once ‘not allowed’ to wear trousers seems ridiculous now. Although women began to wear trousers early on in the twentieth century, it was really Yves Saint Laurent who made trousers chic and highly fashionable, along with his reworking of ‘the smoking jacket’. Trousers were the domain of male attire as much as skirts were the domain of female attire. In particular, this gendering of clothing was somewhat erased when jeans were adopted by men and w

Product Development

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Product development,merchandiser role in,Product development,designer role in,Knock-offs,Anchors,American Apparel and Footwear Association,Product lines of apparel are created and styled for wholesale presentation several times, or seasons, per year. In the fashion industries, a product line is simply called a line. A line encompasses not only the individual item of apparel or accessories but the entire season's production from that manufacturer as well. The term line is used for moderate- and po

Children's and Teens' Apparel

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

World War II,Demographics,children’s, tweens’, and teens’ apparel,Baby boom generation,The apparel industry is not the only potential beneficiary of the growing interest in dressing children well. Psychologists believe that clothes play an important role in shaping and guiding a child's self-image. As parents understand the role that clothes play at various stages of a child's growth, they can help to ensure that a child's appearance will enhance his or her striving to become a mature, self-confi

Translating Concept to Product

Sandra Keiser, Deborah Vandermar and Myrna B. Garner

Source: Beyond Design. The Synergy of Apparel Product Development, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

“Ideas are magical only when they become real and can be appreciated and analyzed. A sketch translated into a sample garment is the realization of an idea. But it becomes complete only when the garment unites with a body moving in space.”

Sizing and Fit Specifications

Sandra Keiser, Deborah Vandermar and Myrna B. Garner

Source: Beyond Design. The Synergy of Apparel Product Development, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

“In analyzing how my competitors communicate fit, I saw a place, an opportunity where we could first use models that have more average size figures and also develop a size chart that is easily understandable . . . I want to gain trust and loyalty with our customer base.”

Body Types and Size Charts

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: A Guide to Fashion Sewing, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

By studying the information in this chapter, the designer will be able to:

Three-Dimensional Thinking

Karl Aspelund

Source: Designing. An Introduction, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Designers Speak

Yarns and Sewing Threads

Ingrid Johnson, Allen C. Cohen and Ajoy K. Sarkar

Source: J.J. Pizzuto’s Fabric Science, 11th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The formation of yarns is the next major step in the development of textile products. The simple process of making yarn predates recorded history. Cave dwellers used hair fiber from animals that were twisted into coarse yarn for ropes and nets. Eventually they refined their techniques to make yarn capable of being intertwined to produce crude fabrics.

Pattern Grading Fundamentals

Kathy K. Mullet

Source: Concepts of Pattern Grading. Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading, 3rd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Pattern grading is the process of systematically increasing and decreasing the dimensions of a master-size pattern into a range of sizes for production. Due to cost constraints, one sample-size pattern is developed and fitted, and then other sizes are graded from this master pattern. The purpose of the grading process is to achieve a good fit in each size of the garment without changing the style sense (proportion and balance) of the garment design from the master-size pattern (Solinger, 1988). H

Manual Grading on the Cartesian Graph

Kathy K. Mullet

Source: Concepts of Pattern Grading. Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading, 3rd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

In Chapter 2, the concepts of grading were explained. Once the concepts are understood, the application of those concepts to grade a pattern can be performed. Regardless of the method used for pattern grading—manual grading or computer grading—pattern movement within a Cartesian graph can be applied. Therefore, understanding what a Cartesian graph is and how to use it are essential concepts in being able to grade with and without a computer.

Concepts of Alphanumeric Grading

Kathy K. Mullet

Source: Concepts of Pattern Grading. Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading, 3rd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The relaxed fit of many garments allows manufacturers to reduce the number of sizes in a product line. Collapsing the number of sizes required to fit the target population increases the efficiency of production. Depending on the style of the garment and the intended target market, production of a range of three to five sizes may be adequate. Collapsed size ranges are identified by letters or a combination of letters and numbers to indicate the size and are referred to as alphanumeric sizing. Thre

ASTM and ISO Seam Classifications

Janace E. Bubonia

Source: Apparel Quality. A Guide To Evaluating Sewn Products, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

A seam is formed by joining together two or more layers of fabric by stitching, sealing, welding, or thermal bonding. The primary function of a seam is to secure garment panels and components together, and provide the appropriate amount of strength, durability, and extendibility for the apparel item without causing failure of the fabric or seam when pressure or force is applied. The effectiveness of a seam relies upon the balance between the construction and strength of the seam which must be abl

Apparel Sizing and Fit Strategies

Janace E. Bubonia

Source: Apparel Quality. A Guide To Evaluating Sewn Products, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Size designations for apparel products delineate a body size, which is indicated by a letter code or number on a garment label to assist consumers with purchases. Letter code sizing typically encompasses two to three numeric sizes and is reported as one or more letters. A common range for letter code sizing is XXS (extra, extra small), XS (extra small), S (small), M (medium), L (large), XL (extra large), XXL (extra, extra large), or XXXL (triple extra large). The number of sizes offered in the ra

ASTM and ISO Stitch Classifications

Janace E. Bubonia

Source: Apparel Quality. A Guide To Evaluating Sewn Products, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

For garments that contain stitching, thread is an essential component for garment assembly and must be properly selected. Factors that should be taken into consideration when making thread selections for garment decoration or assembly include the fiber content, construction, and weight of fabrics to be sewn; the desired seam construction and seam strength; the type of sewing equipment to be used; product end use and desired performance; and useful life of the product. These aspects can affect the

North American Influences on West European Dress

Rebecca Arnold

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

North America’s effect on West European fashion is often viewed only in relation to Hollywood and celebrity. However, its influence has been far more diverse, from technological inventions to leisure wear and the professionalization of the industry.

Size and Fit in Industrially Produced Clothes

Karen Borregaard

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The defining characteristic of ready-to-wear clothes, which differentiates them from made-to-measure clothes, is that they are produced in standard sizes to fit individuals whose exact body dimensions are not known by producers. The aim of standard sizes is to fit as many in a target group as possible. Size refers to both a garment’s measurements and the way size is communicated to customers. In addition, each ready-to-wear style is produced in a range of sizes, known as a sizing system. The numb

The Structure and Form of European Clothes

Peter McNeil

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Clothing is both a material covering and an enclosure for the body that in West Europe is generally constructed through draping or cutting cloth or through weaving or knitting it to shape. The structure of European dress is also bound up with abstract ideals of conduct and beauty. The aesthetic and phenomenological dimension of clothing moving in space is also significant. Some fashions such as women’s court dress from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries were designed to be “read” from a fro

Footwear

Giorgio Riello

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The importance of shoes in twenty-first-century Western society extends well beyond their functional use. Through their material appearance—their texture, weight, and design—shoes express abstract ideas that range from sexual appeal to allure, smartness, and informality. Shoes, therefore, are not just accessories that decorate the body or allow people to embrace the latest fashion; they convey messages that are understood across society. High heels stand for exaggerated femininity; red shoes for

Measure, Edit, and View Functions

Julia Ridgway Sharp and Virginia Hencken Elsasser

Source: Introduction to AccuMark, Pattern Design, and Product Data Management, 2007, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

After studying this chapter, you will be able to

Figure Types: A Key for Comparison

Judith A. Rasband and Elizabeth L.G. Liechty

Source: Fabulous Fit. Speed Fitting and Alteration, 2nd Edition, 2006, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The first step toward achieving a fabulous fit and looking terrific is to become familiar with ways in which your figure may vary from the average or ideal.

Strategies to Fit Your Figure

Judith A. Rasband and Elizabeth L.G. Liechty

Source: Fabulous Fit. Speed Fitting and Alteration, 2nd Edition, 2006, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Wear well-fitted undergarments, ideally the pieces you expect to wear with the clothes you try on. Certain clothing styles demand specific undergarments appropriate for just that style—for example, straight or flared slip, half or full slip, strapless or long-line bra, camisole, control-top pantyhose.

Chico’s Sizing

Leslie Davis Burns , Kathy K. Mullet

Source: Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases

Level: Introductory

Business case

Chico’s has developed a unique sizing system for its garments. With over 700 retail stores, as well as its catalog and website, Chico’s creates new designs weekly and uses a specialized sizing system to address its customers’ fit requirements. Students will address how the sizing system is different from other companies. Why would Chico’s choose to develop a unique sizing system? What would be the advantages and disadvantages from production, marketing, and retailing perspective of this sizing?

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