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John Galliano, Spring/Summer 1990

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The unexpected success of John Galliano’s graduate collection for Saint Martin’s School of Art in 1984 led to an account with the London department store Browns and opportunities for financial backing. Galliano immersed himself in the creative process, with little concern for business matters. In 1987 he was announced as British Designer of the Year; he would receive the award again in 1994, 1995, and 1997. Galliano had been active in the London club scene during his time at Saint Martin’s. This

Ensemble from the “Portrait” Collection, Vivienne Westwood Ready-to-Wear, Fall/Winter 1990–1991

Waleria Dorogova

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

With her characteristic historicist approach, Vivienne Westwood designed numerous garments inspired by French works of art from London’s Wallace Collection. For an ensemble in the fall/winter 1990 “Portrait” collection, she borrowed motifs from two masterpieces—a seductive pastoral canvas by François Boucher (1703–1770), printed onto an eighteenth-century-style corset, and a design from a vanity mirror by André-Charles Boulle (1642–1732) printed on a pair of black velvet leggings. Works by both a

Chanel Haute Couture, Karl Lagerfeld, Fall/Winter 1990

Michelle Honig

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

In this collection, presented in the Champs-Élysées cinema, Karl Lagerfeld introduced the “slope,” a new iteration of the Chanel jacket that featured a narrow-fitting shoulder line. The clothes were influenced by a combination of eighteenth-century robes à la française and the mod 1960s, with open panniers that revealed miniskirts and thigh-high boots. The playfulness of the collection spoke to the young and daring attitude of the new couture customer. For the finale, Lagerfeld presented three br

Nina Ricci Couture, Fall/Winter 1990–1991

Hayley-Jane Mazières

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The historical Parisian couture house was founded, in 1932, by the Italian-born designer Nina Ricci, who soon became the elegant Frenchwoman’s favorite with her romantic and feminine garments. These differed from the sleek creations of such designers as Gabrielle Chanel and Madeleine Vionnet. In 1963, Gérard Pipart, who had previously worked at Chloé and had been the first designer to propose a modern and refined ready-to-wear, was appointed at Nina Ricci, where he would remain for more than thir

Valentino, Fall/Winter 1990

Laura Peach

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Valentino’s collection for fall 1990 celebrated the designer’s thirtieth year of working in fashion. The decadent overtones of the looks followed the opulent fashions of the previous decade and the luxury that Valentino had become known for. Gold lamé tiered skirts, jeweled sheer tops, and egret feather bodices all appeared on the runway. Certain looks borrowed motifs from Baccarat crystals, a partnership-type trend that would continue in fashion through the decades to come. Several dresses in th

Ungaro, Spring/Summer 1990

Vanessa Semmens

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Spring/summer 1990 brought a collection that was typical of Emanuel Ungaro. He was well known for his formfitting dresses and feminine themes, and the collection had a striking mixture of glamorous evening wear and pretty daywear, all accessorized. The House of Ungaro was significant on the fashion circuit, and respected for the high quality of craftsmanship inherent in its garments. In 1993 The Independent put Ungaro in the same sentence as Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent when talking about the “b

Versace Couture, Fall/Winter 1990: “Marilyn” Sequined Trousers

Rebecca Straub

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

In the early 1990s, as fashion moved into the realm of popular entertainment, stars plucked from the world of pop, supermodels, and British royalty all wore Versace. Their visibility gave image to the luxe lifestyle the brand came to connote. The man at the helm of this fashion juggernaut, Gianni Versace, with his enviable lifestyle and celebrity clientele, came to embody the ideals of the house he worked hard to open in 1978.In examining a look from Versace Couture of fall/winter 1990—a pair of

Givenchy Couture, Fall/Winter 1990

Aimee Williams

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Two years after the acquisition of Givenchy by Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessey (LVMH), Givenchy’s fall/winter 1990 collection struggled to negotiate its legacy as a couture line and produce designs to appeal to a contemporary clientele. Elements that had worked in favor of the house in the 1980s drew criticism. While other designers unstructured their silhouettes, Givenchy presented square shoulders on wool suits and evening wear alike. Gold lamé and organza dresses with short, dipping hemlines were

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