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Vivienne Westwood’s Elevated Ghillie Shoes from 1993

Hayley-Jane Edwards-Dujardin

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

For her fall/winter 1993–1994 “Anglomania” collection, Vivienne Westwood perched her models on extremely elevated platform shoes. Inspired, as most of her collection, by Scottish traditional garments, the platform shoes reinterpreted ancestral ghillies worn for folkloric dances. However, apart from the lacing structure, the shoes were more reminiscent of fetish footwear—an aesthetic typical of Vivienne Westwood’s taste for combining conservatism with subversiveness. When the British designer rein

Vivienne Westwood, “Anglomania,” Fall/Winter 1993–1994

Hayley-Jane Edwards-Dujardin

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

From being queen of punk in the mid-1970s, Vivienne Westwood slightly moved, from the 1980s, to being a supporter of British fashion’s establishment. Inspired by traditional craftsmanship and eighteenth-century art, the designer has since infused her collections with historicism. With her fall/winter 1993–1994 “Anglomania” show, Vivienne Westwood epitomized her interest in English and Scottish traditions while mingling masculine tailoring with outrageously feminine forms. Featuring laced bodices,

Bill Blass, Spring/Summer 1993

Michelle Honig

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

This collection was a bit of a departure from Bill Blass’s previous collections, with critic Cathy Horyn noting that some of the pieces “seemed to come from out of the blue.” It took place in the designer’s showroom. The clothes were similar to what other designers were doing at the time, being feminine, blousy, and sheer. There were elements of overt sexiness, with a bubblegum pink dress edged in black lace and an ensemble of a black-and-white striped cardigan with the top buttons left open pair

Vivienne Westwood, Spring/Summer 1993

Lucy Moyse

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Based on a thorough and careful understanding of fashion history and its great designers, yet delivered with bold, bright colors, extravagant accessories, and even nudity, Vivienne Westwood’s collection for spring/summer 1993 demonstrates her nuanced mastery of her art. The collection was shown in Le Grand Hôtel, Paris: the first time Westwood had used this location, where she would go on to host several further shows.

Anna Sui, Spring/Summer 1993

Nadya Wang

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Anna Sui’s spring/summer 1993 collection reflects her ease in cherry-picking ideas from disparate sources of inspiration to create collections that are recognizably hers. Chiefly inspired by Biba, Barbara Hulanicki’s London boutique, the collection was also in touch with the grunge aesthetic of the season, with a riot of bright colors in stripes, fabric flowers on skullcaps, and knit tops juxtaposed with militaristic khaki skirts and pants. Added to the mix were lace dresses and crocheted cardiga

Anna Sui, Fall/Winter 1993

Nadya Wang

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

For the fall/winter 1993 season, Sui blended together fashionable elements from late eighteenth-century France to Edwardian Britain. Despite the disparate elements involved, the looks that Sui created were still in keeping with a romantic, whimsical, and feminine aesthetic. Luxurious fabrics such as velvet and satin in dark fall colors contrasted with pastel shades, and the collection contained the most colors Sui had used up to that time. She went to great lengths to dye and sometimes re-dye the

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