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Punk Style Past and Present

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

leatherbeltshooded sweatshirt (hoodie)craftreconfiguredcolorblackapparelself-identified punkWhat is punk dress and how did it get that way? For some punk style is an obvious reference to green mohawkmohawk hair, a leather jacket, plaid plaidpantspants, and bootscombat bootscombat bootsboots. For others it is an oversized hooded sweatshirt and jeans, clean white shoes, and a wallet accessorychainchain. Some say it is a current caricaturecaricature logosof bandsof a dead movement while others say i

Punk Style Motivations and Explanations

Monica Sklar

Source: Punk Style, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

There is no simple way to answer the question “why does someone dress in a punk style?” Motivations cannot be entirely quantified, however there are dominant themes that drive many to make stylistic choices toward a punk look. Punk style is a way to express individual identity, as it addresses internal emotions as well as lifestyle choices and position within society. The individual choosing punk dress may be expressing internal feelings as well as trying to find external recognition for his or h

You Should Understand, It’s A Freedom Thing: The Stoned Cherrie–Steve Biko T-Shirt

Carol Tulloch

Source: The Birth of Cool. Style Narratives of the African Diaspora, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In the face you can have all kinds of political landscapes

T-shirts, Tops, and Sweaters

Sharon Czachor

Source: Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

T-shirts started out as undergarments, evolving from one-piece union suits into separate tops and bottoms. The tops were made long enough to tuck into the bottoms. Workers began wearing them as lightweight shirts in hot climates. They became popular in the United States when the U.S. Navy issued them to be worn under uniforms. It became common for sailors and marines to remove their uniform jackets while working on board submarines and tropical climates, wearing the T-shirt with uniform pants.

Kurt Cobain

José Blanco F.

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Kurt Cobain, the lead singer of Nirvana, was born on 20 February 1967 in Aberdeen in the state of Washington. He became the salient figure in grunge music, a style that developed in the Pacific Northwest of the United States in the middle of the 1980s and achieved global popularity in the early 1990s. Grunge is a style of alternative rock based on accented percussion, heavy electric guitar riffs, electronic distortion, and loud—often howling—vocals. Nirvana, formed in 1988, became one of the most

Katharine Hamnett

Amber Jane Butchart

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

“58% Don’t Want Pershing” T-Shirt, Katherine Hamnett, 1984

Jessica Draper

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Fashion designer Katherine Hamnett has cleverly employed fashion as a vessel to carry a political message from early in her career, including the infamous T-shirt “58% Don’t Want Pershing,” in which she was photographed meeting the British prime minister, Margaret Thatcher, in 1984. Concealing the shirt under a jacket and revealing it at the last moment was a masterstroke of publicity, both for Hamnett’s brand and her wider concerns. Hamnett has continued her political activism through her fashio

Marlon Brando

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The white T-shirt, the biker jacket, jeans: these three items have become so ingrained in menswear’s fashion lexicon that it is almost difficult to conceive the relative newness of these classic wardrobe staples within the context of menswear’s history. In fact, it is perhaps even more difficult to fathom what the fate of these integral menswear items would have been without the legendary style impact of Marlon Brando. One of the most influential and celebrated American screen and stage actors of

Antoni & Alison

Vanessa Semmens

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Blumarine

Vanessa Semmens

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

White

Shari Sims

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

“Pure white” may just be the oldest fashion statement of all time, harking back to Biblical angels and the earliest use of linen recorded by Ancient Egyptians some 4,000 years ago. In modern times, virtually every couture fashion house features fantastical visions of brides in white on the catwalk, while any view of streetwear from the 1970s onward could hardly be complete without the ubiquitous white T-shirt. Once, white collars and cuffs may have been the trappings of the landed gentry, but the

Greasers

Else Skjold

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

“Greasers” were devotees of a subcultural style originally for young, working-class men (later also women) that emerged in the 1950s in the United States. The word “grease” refers to the wax or pomade used to make the characteristic hairdo of the look, which also typically included biker boots, jeans, T-shirts, and leather jackets. Groupings of greasers would often appear in motorcycle gangs around the emerging rock ’n’ roll scene, and parts of the subculture formed the motorcycle club “Hell’s An

Jersey Knit Torso Sloper and Tops

Myoungok Kim and Injoo Kim

Source: Patternmaking for Menswear. Classic to Contemporary, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Overall, the knit fabrics sloper can be applied to most kinds of knitted fabrics; however, for all design intents and purposes of this book, the focus will be mainly on the implementation of jersey fabrics for the patterns. The term jersey came from the island of Jersey, located between England and France, where the material was first produced. Jersey, like all knit fabrics, is a type of textile that can be made from various materials; ranging from natural fibers such as cotton and linen, to synt

Specialized Portfolios: Diverse Market Segments

Joanne Ciresi Barrett

Source: Designing Your Fashion Portfolio. From Concept to Presentation, 2013, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

What makes a portfolio specialized? Reference the specializations listed in Chapter 4 for consideration. Chapter 5 presents the details of research and execution needed to make your specialized portfolio feature practical, applied, functional details to suit the client’s needs for several categories: accessories, activewear, bridal, costume, eco/green apparel, intimate apparel, millinery, swimwear, T-shirts, technical design, and urban streetwear.

Digital Fashion Illustration Foundation with Illustrator®

Stacy Stewart Smith

Source: CAD for Fashion Design and Merchandising, 2013, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Chapter 3 reinforces the features of Illustrator® through three tutorials that will unfold more tools, panels, and functions of the program. The goal is to help you to further develop your command of the Illustrator® interface, and to improve your digital illustration capabilities through numbered step-by-step instructions. By completing the tutorials in this chapter, you will accomplish the following objectives:

Gender

Gertrud Lehnert

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The basic distinction between female and male dress in the Western world is between women’s skirts and men’s bifurcated trousers. Only in the twentieth century was this abandoned—but in one direction, since, even today, men do not wear skirts, despite some attempts by fashion designers. This does not indicate that trousers are more natural for men, but that in the West, they denote supremacy and masculinity. From the late Middle Ages onwards, increasing emphasis was put on gender differentiation

Women’s Cooperatives and Self-Help Artists

Kimberly Miller and Brenda Schmahmann

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Africa, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

During the 1980s and 1990s, a number of art-making cooperatives were set up to address the dire poverty of communities in South Africa as well as so-called homelands such as Gazankulu and Bophuthatswana. Some catered to men and women, coupling an imperative to generate income for members with an agenda to protest against apartheid through the creation of art. The majority, however, catered specifically to women who, in addition to being denied human rights and economic opportunities through apart

T-Shirt

Dennita Sewell

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Children’s Clothes

Viveka Berggren Torell

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The notion that children represent the future has influenced children’s dress for a long time. During the Enlightenment, childhood started to be seen as an important, separate period in a person’s life that ought to be devoted to a playful existence. At that time, philosophers advocated clothes allowing free movement of the body, to make it possible for children to develop according to their “inner path” and thereby become sensible adults. These ideas later reverberated in the twentieth century,

Asmat Dress

Pauline van der Zee

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The Asmat people live along the southwest coast of New Guinea. In this extremely damp, swampy climate, being unclothed is more practical than wearing garments. Besides, in a society where experiencing danger is common, clothes can be troublesome because they may easily catch on rough undergrowth and thorny plants. Until the 1960s Asmat men left their genitals uncovered and children and women went partly naked. Westerners thus reported that they wore nothing, but the Asmat themselves believed thei

Sportswear

Michael P. Londrigan

Source: Menswear. Business to Style, 2009, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Over the past several years, the casual market has been further defined as a direct outgrowth of the casualization movement. The term dress casual has come into use, and this category has become a thriving market. The look that best defines dress casual is a woven sport shirt that borders on a dress shirt, worn with a dress pant to give the wearer a look that is considered somewhere between casual (khakis and button-down collar sport shirts) and the suited look. More and more companies are allow

Shirts

Lori A. Knowles

Source: The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers Menswear, 2005, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Men’s shirts and tops come in a variety of styles from casual wear to formal wear. Menswear styles do not vary as much as womenswear styles, but there are opportunities to generate design interest with different styles and to learn patternmaking skills while creating attractive and comfortable shirts. This chapter teaches you flat patternmaking techniques for men’s shirts and tops in both knit and woven fabrics.

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