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Fashion and Feminism

Henriette Dahan-Kalev and Shoshana-Rose Marzel

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

civil rightsgenderDuring the French Revolution, dress became an important issue: one of the ways in which revolutionaries’ values were to be obtained and symbolized was through the adoption of class-less styles of clothing, which expressed the ideals of Fraternity, Liberty, and Equality.

Garment Styling

Sandra Keiser, Deborah Vandermar and Myrna B. Garner

Source: Beyond Design. The Synergy of Apparel Product Development, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

“I wish I had invented blue jeans. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity—all I hope for in my clothes.”

The Theater of Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Nous savons donc beaucoup de gré à mademoiselle Nathalie des sacrifices qu’elle fait pour ses costumes; de beaux habits sur de jolies femmes, rien n’est plus charmant.

Pants

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The origin of women wearing pants is not known, but as far back as the first century c.e., women from the Middle East and Asia were wearing some form of pants. In a more modern time, Amelia Bloomer, attempting to banish the corset in the mid-1850s, helped to conceive an outfit consisting of a short skirt that was worn over full trousers that were gathered at the ankles. These trousers were called “bloomers” after her. The bloomer costume had a rather short life, but helped to introduce the concep

Pant Slopers and Patterns

Julie Cole

Source: Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

In this chapter, you learn how to draft a set of pant slopers in each stretch category (minimal stretch, moderate stretch, very stretchy, and super stretchy). You create the pant slopers from the hip foundation that was drafted in Chapter 5. Look back at the Knit Family in Table 2.1 on p. 16 to see how the slopers for pants evolve. In addition, Table 2.2 lists other pant variations that you can draft from the pant slopers.

Skirts and Pants

Sharon Czachor

Source: Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The following techniques are stitched in both skirts and pants and are organized for sample making and application to garments that follow these directions. Stitching directions for the knit skirt, pants, and stretch woven fabric are included under each category.

Eight: The Retro-Branding of American Heritage: Levi Strauss & Co.

Joseph H. Hancock

Source: Brand Story. Cases and Explorations in Fashion Branding, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There is a common mistaken notion that Levi Strauss invented denim jeans while working in a gold mine in California. Actually, Levi Strauss was born of German Jewish immigrants in 1829. At the age of eighteen, he and his two sisters moved to the United States to join his two brothers, who had started a wholesale dry goods business in New York City called J. Strauss Brothers & Co. Later Levi Strauss moved to Louisville, Kentucky, to sell his brothers’ dry goods.

Skirts and Pants

Elizabeth Liechty, Judith Rasband and Della Pottberg-Steineckert

Source: Fitting & Pattern Alteration. A Multi-Method Approach to The Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

This section presents measurement, fitting, and alte\ration procedures on the lower torso, legs, skirts, and pants. Use this section as a ready-reference to fitting problems occurring in skirts and pants.

Knit Pants

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Measuring knit pants is generally easier than measuring woven pants, in theory, because they often have fewer style features. However, knit pants can be difficult to measure because of bulk in the rise. When measuring the waist and hip areas, line up the waistband at the center front and center back top edges, unless otherwise designed. The crotch/rise curve will not lie flat; simply let it lie in a natural position. When measuring the pant leg, lay one leg flat on the table, gently pushing the o

Woven Pants

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The three most common types of woven pant construction are pleated, darted, and flat front. The waistlines may be high, low, or anywhere in between. Leg widths may be anywhere from slim/stovepipe to full palazzo. Because of such variety there will be instances when more than one point of measurement can be used when evaluating a woven pant. For example, the woven pant shown in Figure 11.1 should be measured at the low hip and seat rather than at the high hip and low hip, because of the low-rise d

Emilio Pucci

Rio Ali

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Linings

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: A Guide to Fashion Sewing, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

By studying the information in this chapter, the designer will be able to:

Alexander McQueen’s “Bumster” Trousers

Kate Bethune

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Alexander McQueen’s “Bumster” trousers caused a sensation as one of the most provocative designs of the 1990s. McQueen redefined the silhouette with the Bumsters by cutting the waistband two inches below that of hipster trousers to elongate the torso and expose the lower spine and top of the buttocks. Although a prototype pair was made in late 1992, Bumsters first appeared on the catwalk in McQueen’s inaugural show, “Nihilism” (spring/summer 1994). Reappearing in collections including the controv

Kurt Cobain

José Blanco F.

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Kurt Cobain, the lead singer of Nirvana, was born on 20 February 1967 in Aberdeen in the state of Washington. He became the salient figure in grunge music, a style that developed in the Pacific Northwest of the United States in the middle of the 1980s and achieved global popularity in the early 1990s. Grunge is a style of alternative rock based on accented percussion, heavy electric guitar riffs, electronic distortion, and loud—often howling—vocals. Nirvana, formed in 1988, became one of the most

Calvin Klein

Lauren Bowes

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

The Pattern

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The following are standard measurements taken by tailors, and used by them to draft patterns which will fit their clients as closely and as comfortably as possible. In conjunction with the measurements, the tailor also notes important information about the client’s body: whether his posture is stooped or overly erect; whether his shoulders are square or sloped; whether his buttocks are full or flat, whether his stomach protrudes; whether one hip or one shoulder is higher than the other, etc.

The Fit

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The next step is to cut the basic pattern pieces from a good quality prototyping fabric and to check the fit. Tailors do not always use muslin (also known as calico) for this process. Instead, we recommend using a cheaper wool cloth, which will behave more similarly to your chosen final fabric. The chest and shoulder area of your toile should be reinforced with interfacing, either fusible or quickly hand-basted in place.

Layout and Cutting

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The Pants

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The pants can often be held in lower esteem in a suit when compared to the jacket. This may be due to the extensive amount of detail and attention placed in the jacket; however, a great suit cannot exist without pants that have been carefully constructed and shaped to fit the client.

Alterations

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Because of constant changes in fashion, a frequent tailoring alteration is the tapering of jacket lapels.

Cargo Pants

Joseph H. Hancock

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

During the twentieth century, cargo pants have gone from being a traditional military uniform to a popular casual pant worn by many consumers in the global consumer market. Since the late 1960s, when hippies wore army surplus vintage styles as a sign of protest against the Vietnam War, cargo pants have undergone a considerable transformation, changing in both fabrication and form. They have penetrated popular culture through intermediaries such as the military, subcultural style, film, media, ret

Marlon Brando

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The white T-shirt, the biker jacket, jeans: these three items have become so ingrained in menswear’s fashion lexicon that it is almost difficult to conceive the relative newness of these classic wardrobe staples within the context of menswear’s history. In fact, it is perhaps even more difficult to fathom what the fate of these integral menswear items would have been without the legendary style impact of Marlon Brando. One of the most influential and celebrated American screen and stage actors of

Marithé + François Girbaud (house)

Sandra J. Ley

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Sportmax

Nanna Marie Lund

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Grading the Basic Pattern Blocks

Kathy K. Mullet

Source: Concepts of Pattern Grading. Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading, 3rd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

How to grade the basic block patterns is the most important skill in pattern grading. Because flat patternmaking is based on the use and manipulation of the basic sloper to create other apparel designs, learning to grade the basic block patterns will enable the designer to grade any other design that he or she creates. Learning where the grade is distributed in the basic pattern is imperative to grading other designs. The principles and concepts learned in this chapter will be applied in all of t

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