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Menswear Through the Ages

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

It is only the modern that ever becomes old-fashioned.

Garment Styling

Sandra Keiser, Deborah Vandermar and Myrna B. Garner

Source: Beyond Design. The Synergy of Apparel Product Development, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

“I wish I had invented blue jeans. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity—all I hope for in my clothes.”

Tailored Clothing

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

1 First, block off the structure on an underdrawing.

Volume

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Outerwear/Coats

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Source: Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Outerwear and coats, either knitted or woven, are treated as wovens when measuring, due to the garment’s construction. When measuring a cardigan coat, one should use the knit dress spec sheet if the cardigan coat is not lined, and the outerwear/coat spec sheet if it is lined. Short, unlined jackets are usually spec’d on the blazer and unconstructed jacket spec sheets, while lined jackets are usually spec’d on the outerwear/coat spec sheets. As you measure these garments, you will have to make tha

Michiko Koshino

Alessandro Esculapio

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Kosuke Tsumura

Alessandro Esculapio

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Icons of Modernity: Sixties Fashion and Youth Culture

Heike Jenss

Source: Fashioning Memory. Vintage Style and Youth Culture, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

One of the first media reports on mods, under the headline “Faces without Shadows” and published in Town Magazine in September 1962, provides insight into the consumer practices of these youths (see partial reprint in Rawlings 2000: 42–7). The article revolves around the fifteen-year-old Feld, MarkMark Feld (later, Marc Bolan of the band T-Rex) and his twenty-year-old friends Sugar, PeterPeter Sugar and Simmonds, MichaelMichael Simmonds living in the London neighborhood Stoke Newington. They desc

Balenciaga

Casey Mackenzie Johnson

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Wendy Dagworthy

Michelle Labrague

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Sportmax

Nanna Marie Lund

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Christopher Bailey

Shonagh Marshall

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Oscar de la Renta, Spring/Summer 1995

Lucy Moyse

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Oscar de la Renta’s spring/summer 1995 collection featured an array of sherbert candy shades and styles of dress, from halter, strapless, and bandeau minidresses to full, short-sleeve A-line versions, inspired by his mentor, Cristóbal Balenciaga. Shown at New York Fashion Week, the collection also included provocative, nightwear-inspired styles and even a wedding dress. While the mix of styles was eclectic, many of the designer’s praised signature traits were apparent, which converged to form an

Burberry

Emily M. Orr

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Max Mara

Emily M. Orr

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Coats

Myoungok Kim and Injoo Kim

Source: Patternmaking for Menswear. Classic to Contemporary, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Because a coat can be worn over a jacket and a shirt, coat patterns contain the most wearing ease of any garment type. The coat foundation is based on the woven torso sloper, and has ease for ¼″–thick shoulder pads, as does a jacket foundation. Therefore, the patternmaker who wants to design coats without shoulder pads or with pads of different thickness should take this into consideration. There is a difference between the back neck width and the front neck width in the coat foundation compared

Jacket/Coat Foundations and Designs

Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Source: Draping for Apparel Design, 3rd Edition, 2013, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The two illustrations mark and label the important terms associated with jackets and coats. The terms should be learned and understood for better communication in the design room.

Technical Design with Illustrator®

Stacy Stewart Smith

Source: CAD for Fashion Design and Merchandising, 2013, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

In the apparel market, nearly all digital production flats are created with vector-based software programs like Illustrator®. The need to communicate with global resources and the fast pace of the garment center have nearly eclipsed the use of freehand technical flats for production.

The Genealogy of the Turkish Pardösü in the Netherlands

R. Arzu Ünal

Source: Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion. New Perspectives from Europe and North America, 2013, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Three-quarter-length overcoats were the most commonly worn outdoor attire mentioned in the accounts of migrant women coming to the Netherlands in the late 1970s. A few Turkish women came alone as workers;most of them were the wives of guest workers and came as temporary residents. The first generation of migrant women described that particular style of overcoat as the first modern and şehirli(urban) item of outdoor clothing they had ever worn. These were relatively close-fitting overcoats, intend

Garments and Garment Details

Bina Abling

Source: Fashion Sketchbook, 6th Edition, 2012, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Necklines move above or below the base of the neck. They often follow the basic sewing lines on the torso. Collars are connected to the neckline, draped above or below the neck, set down on the shoulders or spread across the chest. To dress the neck, to draw and design necklines and collars, utilize the sewing lines on the torso as a guide. Collars sewn above the base of the neck usually follow the cylindrical form of

Designing Menswear

Evelyn L. Brannon

Source: Designer’s Guide to Fashion Apparel, 2011, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

“The goal I seek is to have people refine their style through clothing without having them become victims of fashion.”

Tweed

Fiona Anderson

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Tweed cloth originated in Scotland in the early nineteenth century. At that time, it was only made from woolen yarns in the twill weave. From the 1820s to the present, tweed has been characterized by a huge range of color and weave effects. The main account given for the origins of the name tweed is that it is based on a misreading of the Scottish word tweel or twill (which was the weave characteristic of Scottish woolens at that time) for tweed. By the 1840s, tweed was established as a term used

Belarus

Hanna Chuchvaha

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

In the thirteenth century, Belarusian ethnic territory became an independent part of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Developing handicraft industries and foreign commerce within the duchy in the sixteenth century favored new foreign garments. During the seventeenth century, the wealthy adopted West European, predominantly French, fashion. In 1795, the eastern territories of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, including the Belarusian territories, were annexed to the Russian Empire. In the nineteenth cent

Body and Dress

Angela Durante and Jenny Ellison

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

All human cultures engage in some form of dress and adornment. Although our bodies and the items we put on them might appear to be separate, they in fact have a great deal in common and are considerably intertwined. A dressed body represents a complex set of negotiations between an individual, the fashion system, and the social context in which they exist. Codes of dress set parameters but do not entirely determine how individuals dress. The body and dress are mutually constitutive—dress adds soc

Wool

Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Translated by Stig Erik Sørheim

Kjetil Enstad

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Wool is probably the first fiber humans used, and throughout history it has been not only the most utilized fiber but also a commodity of great economic significance. In the twenty-first century, wool plays a more modest role and is primarily associated with quality and tradition.

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