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Green

Emma Davenport

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Associated with cultural symbols of balance and belonging, historically green has been worn to convey hope, good health, and the supernatural. Twenty-first-century concerns about the fashion industry’s impact upon the environment have seen the expression and ethos “Green is the new black” gain currency. On the catwalk, the color green has been used by a variety of designers such as Daniel Hechter, Isaac Mizrahi, Hyper Hyper, Sportmax, and Thierry Mugler. Since the 1970s, fashion trends associated

Josephus Melchior Thimister

Elizabeth Glendinning

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

1690–1815: Chinoiserie, Indiennerie, Turquerie and Egyptomania

Adam Geczy

Source: Fashion and Orientalism. Dress, Textiles and Culture from the 17th to the 21st Century 2013

Book chapter

See, mademoiselle, how that goes well with your Chinese-style hairstyle, your mantle of peacock feathers, your petticoat of celadon and gold, your cinnamon bottoms and your shoes of jade…

Uniforms as Work Dress for Civilians and Military

Thomas S. Abler

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Uniforms are distinctive but standard forms of dress associated with particular occupations and/or social institutions and either supplied or regulated by the associated institution. In donning a uniform one assumes a social role. Since uniforms are often worn in hierarchal institutions, anyone wearing the same uniform can be expected to perform in a similar fashion in a given situation. In initial battles of World War II the soldiers and sailors of the United States wore the British-style steel

Uniforms

Nigel Arch

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

A uniform may be defined as a prescribed set of clothing peculiar to a distinct group of individuals within a society. It is distinguished by displays of hierarchy evident on parts of the dress and will usually also display emblems that act as signals only readily interpreted by other members of the group. Hierarchy is expressed in terms of rank, and badges of rank have appeared on such elements of uniform dress as the shoulder strap and cuffs of the upper body garment. Other symbols act as remin

Headdress

Beverly Chico

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Hairnets may be the oldest headdresses worn by humans. A mammoth-ivory figurine dated circa 36,000 B.C.E. and found at Brassempouy (Las Landes), France, shows a human face with hair possibly braided and covered with what appears to be a netting. Bronze Age second millennium B.C.E. hairnets of horsehair using the sprang or twisted-thread technique were found in Borum Eshøj, Denmark, and are preserved in the National Museum, Copenhagen. Complementing long, unfitted robes, a fashionable silk hairnet

Conventional Work Dress

Colleen Gau

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Historically, climate and work environments are primary to the selection and production of work clothing, but safety concerns, economic and business climates, fashion, and ethics find a place in the clothing narrative of Western civilizations. As crops and animals were domesticated, empires emerged in the Nile and Mediterranean regions, and the classification of skill groups became more distinct. Animal skins were replaced by woven garments by the time people had settled into communities. Herding

Heads of State and Dress

Suzanne Gott

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Africa 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The modes of dress worn by African heads of state since independence have served as highly visible expressions of political philosophies and programs during different periods of national leadership. African leaders have also developed memorable trademark ensembles for projecting political personas.

Distinctive Dress of the Nazi Party

Mark Gudgel

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

This article addresses the significance and distinct aspects of uniform and dress in Nazi Germany (1933–1945), specifically related to the organization and membership of the Nationalsozialistische Deutsche Arbeiterpartei, the NSDAP or Nazi party. The Nazi entity is kept distinct from that of other German organizations that existed during that period to which non-Nazi German civilians may have belonged, as well as from the various branches of the German military which were populated with a very lo

Fascist and Nazi Dress

Irene Guenther

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Such reactionary, anti-Semitic, and rabidly nationalistic messages were repeated on countless occasions throughout the 1920s and early 1930s, so that by the time the Nazi Party came to power in 1933 the argument was clear. Only German clothing, specifically Aryan-designed and manufactured, was good enough for females in the Third Reich. Racially appropriate clothing depended upon the elimination of French and, especially, Jewish influences from the German fashion industry.

Lufthansa Uniforms

Regina Henkel

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Airline uniforms give an insight into the airline’s historical, economic, social, and gender-related values. They lend the otherwise-standardized flying services a distinctive appearance and enable the airlines to imbue their staff with cultural associations and emotions according to the prescribed image. From early on, the German airline, Lufthansa, focused efforts on the appearance of its employees.

Colonial Influence on Dress in the Indian Subcontinent

Donald Clay Johnson

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. South Asia and Southeast Asia 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Queen Elizabeth I issued a royal charter to the Company of Merchants of London Trading into the East Indies (commonly known as the East India Company) on the last day of 1600. Thus began the official interactions between England and India, which two centuries later resulted in British political domination of the Indian Subcontinent. What the British wore in India overwhelmingly reflected London fashion rather than incorporating approaches to clothing that had evolved over millennia in India. This

Camouflage Cloth

John S. Major

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Antifashion in East Asian Dress: Power of Uniforms

Brian J. McVeigh

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Asia 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Fashion in East Asia reveals historical trajectories following the same path as Euro–American modernities. Modernization underpins the fashion-oriented consumerism visible today in Japan, China, Taiwan, and Hong Kong, accounting for the interplay between fashion, counter-fashion, and antifashion. Counter-fashion is concerned with an interest in change and avant-garde styles. It may be associated with dissent, protest, or ridicule. Antifashion (commonly confused with counter-fashion) means styles

Fur

Lise Skov

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Fur comes from animal pelts that are chemically treated to make the leather supple and retain the hairs, which consist of guard hairs and underwool. Although furs come from many different animals, the most common in the twenty-first century are mink and fox. Fur has been appreciated for two outstanding qualities: warmth, essential in cold climates, and appearance, which accounts for its association with ostentation and prestige dressing. Comfort and durability have also made fur garments and acce

Military Style

Stefano Tonchi

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Official Dress, Military Uniforms, and Europeanizing Fashion Influences in Serbia

Čedomir Vasić

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The history of the Serbian people and the Serbian state in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, following centuries of foreign (Turkish) domination, was marked by efforts to establish national institutions of the European type in order to align with Western civilization. Making public servants wear uniforms following European models played a very important role in these efforts: Apart from introducing new styles of dress, new rules of conduct, and a new system of values, it contributed signifi

Military and Civil Uniforms in Australia

Craig Wilcox

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Lacking the powerful and intimidating presence exerted in authoritarian and militaristic societies, uniforms have nonetheless been ubiquitous in Australia for the past two hundred years. A large minority of men have worn them since the 1860s, if only for a few hours a week as citizen soldiers or volunteer firefighters. In the 1940s a significant minority of women and the majority of children began to wear uniforms too, the former in the military or at work, the latter in school. The first uniform

Uniforms for Women

Jennifer Craik

Source: Uniforms Exposed. From Conformity to Transgression 2005

Book chapter

In an English history school textbook, A Pageant of History (Collins Pageant of Knowledge Series 1966: 18), an account of the first world war includes eight photographs of women’s war contributions as bus conductors (“for the first time ever”); land girls (“to help food production”); ambulance officers (“marched smartly by to do their bit”); “there were even women in the Fire Brigade” saluting at dismissal; “factories, too, were ‘manned’ by women”; and “when it was all over, the women cheered as

Uniforms and Authority

Jennifer Craik

Source: Uniforms Exposed. From Conformity to Transgression 2005

Book part

Military Fashion and Coup d’Etat in Chile

Carmen Oquendo-Villar

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Latin America and the Caribbean 2005

Encyclopedia entry

The political deployment of media was crucial for the success of the 1973 coup in Chile in which a military junta overthrew President Salvador Allende. It was also vital for the launching of the president of the junta, Augusto Pinochet Ugarte, onto the national scene. His image—including his body image, uniforms, and accoutrements—was meticulously stage-managed in print media, film documentaries, and television images to convey political meaning and to achieve control over a chaotic social body o

Representing Authority: New Forms of Official Identity

Richard Wrigley

Source: The Politics of Appearances. Representations Of Dress In Revolutionary France 2002

Book chapter

The earliest days of the Revolution had seen the creation of the National Guard, an institution whose adoption of a uniform corresponded to the expression of a newly forged patriotic unity. To some extent, this proved to be a relatively uncontentious phenomenon in so far as the creation of a uniform was consistent with the essentially military nature of the Guard. Uniforms were, however, strongly associated with hierarchy. In the case of the Guard, this related to the social status of its members

Introduction: Empires and Hinterland Warriors

Thomas S. Abler

Source: Hinterland Warriors and Military Dress. European Empires and Exotic Uniforms 1999

Book chapter

The charge of the Light Brigade at Balaclava in the Crimea, immortalized in the poetry of Alfred, Lord Tennyson, ranks as one of the best-known episodes of glory (and disaster) in British military history. In addition to Tennyson’s poem, the famous charge has been the subject of at least two feature-length films (one, from 1936, starred Errol Flynn and Olivia De Havilland; the other, produced in 1968, was directed by Tony Richardson and featured Trevor Howard, David Hemmings, John Gielgud and Van

The Military Uniform: General Principles of Its Evolution

Thomas S. Abler

Source: Hinterland Warriors and Military Dress. European Empires and Exotic Uniforms 1999

Book chapter

In this chapter several aspects of the literature on the history of military uniforms will be considered. It not the intention to present a general history of the military uniform (a formidable task – see the encyclopaedic treatment of Knötel, Knötel and Seig 1937), but rather to present principles that have been put forward as having an impact on the evolution of the military uniform, and to consider some of the limitations of the data and literature relevant to or describing military uniforms o

Hussars: Horsemen of the Eastern Frontier

Thomas S. Abler

Source: Hinterland Warriors and Military Dress. European Empires and Exotic Uniforms 1999

Book chapter

Un hussard qui n’est pas mort à trente ans n’est qu’en Jean Foutre(A hussar who isn’t dead at thirty is a blackguard)

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