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The Pattern

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The following are standard measurements taken by tailors, and used by them to draft patterns which will fit their clients as closely and as comfortably as possible. In conjunction with the measurements, the tailor also notes important information about the client’s body: whether his posture is stooped or overly erect; whether his shoulders are square or sloped; whether his buttocks are full or flat, whether his stomach protrudes; whether one hip or one shoulder is higher than the other, etc.

The Fit

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The next step is to cut the basic pattern pieces from a good quality prototyping fabric and to check the fit. Tailors do not always use muslin (also known as calico) for this process. Instead, we recommend using a cheaper wool cloth, which will behave more similarly to your chosen final fabric. The chest and shoulder area of your toile should be reinforced with interfacing, either fusible or quickly hand-basted in place.

Fabric

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

If you want the very finest fabric for classic tailoring, choose wool. There is an endless variety of beautiful fabrics available to us today, most of which will respond favorably to certain tailoring features. There is no reason to limit your wardrobe to one fabric. However, full tailoring procedures (canvas, haircloth, tape, etc.) will produce their best results for wool. Silk and linen are close seconds.

The Vest

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Vests

Myoungok Kim and Injoo Kim

Source: Patternmaking for Menswear. Classic to Contemporary, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Waistcoat

Tom Greatrex

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Originating in Persia, waistcoats first became fashionable in the middle of the seventeenth century. The new style was noticed by Samuel Pepys in 1666: “The King hath … declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes which he will never alter,” he wrote in his diary. “It will be a vest.”

Black and New Zealand Dress

Bronwyn Labrum

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The color black features in New Zealand dress in distinctive ways that are the product of the nation’s particular history and culture. It is frequently evoked as New Zealand’s national color, primarily because of its lengthy association with the game of rugby union and the uniform of other key sporting codes. More recently, the supposed affinity between this hue and the work of leading fashion designers has cemented the association. The color black has connections across other groups within New Z

Lithuania: Ethnic Dress

Ruta Saliklis

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Lithuania, situated in northeastern Europe on the Baltic Sea, was until the twentieth century a nation of people living off the land. Up until 1970, more than half of Lithuania’s population lived outside of major urban areas. The country is covered with deciduous and coniferous forests, glacial lakes, and rivers. Many of the forests have been cut down, but until the mid-twentieth century, people living outside of major cities were very isolated, causing them to develop regional linguistic dialect

Tailored Clothing

Michael P. Londrigan

Source: Menswear. Business to Style, 2009, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Noted author Mark Twain once said that “clothes make the man.” Truer words have never been spoken, especially when it comes to a man’s suit. Historically, the suit comprised three pieces: jacket, pant, and vest. This is termed a nested suit. All the pieces match and are sold on the same hanger. In today’s society, the vest has been reduced in importance and is subject to the whims of designers, who try to resurrect it as a fashion statement from time to time. Currently, vests are found more in th

How to Measure a Vest

Michele Wesen Bryant and Diane DeMers

Source: The Spec Manual, 2nd Edition, 2006, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Linings

Lori A. Knowles

Source: The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers Menswear, 2005, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Linings were first introduced in chapter 1. Lining is any fabric used on the inside of a garment that hides the construction of the garment, and is different from the self fabric. Sometimes garments are cut double faced (two layers of self fabric) to provide a clean finish inside the garment, to add stability, or to make the garment reversible. Examples of this are the hood from style 0403/sweatshirt, the back yokes on styles 0404/safari shirt and 0405/long sleeve shirt in chapter 4, and style 05

Vests

Lori A. Knowles

Source: The Practical Guide to Patternmaking for Fashion Designers Menswear, 2005, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Men’s vests come in many styles that range from casual to formal wear. Casual styles include fleece vests that insulate you from the cold, and vests that have multiple pockets (ideal for outdoor adventures). Formal styles include suit vests. A vest may be functional or a fashion item meant to add interest to an outfit. For example, a patterned silk vest or waistcoat might serve as the focal point of a formal ensemble. Vests are worn over shirts and therefore require extra ease, particularly in th

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