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The Birth of Paris Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Le travail des modes est un art: art chéri, triomphant, qui dans ce siècle, a reçu des honneurs, des distinctions. Cet art entre dans le palais des Rois, [et] y reçoit un accueil flatteur.

Liberty of Dress

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Nulle personne de l’un ou de l’autre sexe ne pourra contraindre aucun citoyen ni citoyenne à se vêtir d’une manière particulière, chacun étant libre de porter tel vêtement et ajustement de son sexe que bon lui semblera, sous peine d’être considéré et traité comme suspect, et poursuivi comme perturbateur du repos public.

Fashion in Balzac’s Paris

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

La toilette est l’expression de la société.

The Black Prince of Elegance

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Eternelle superiorité du Dandy.

Fashioning the Parisienne

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

J’ai sous les yeux une série de gravures de mode. Ces costumes presentent un charme d’une nature double, artistique et historique.

The Theater of Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Nous savons donc beaucoup de gré à mademoiselle Nathalie des sacrifices qu’elle fait pour ses costumes; de beaux habits sur de jolies femmes, rien n’est plus charmant.

The Private Life of Paris

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Dans ces sphères élevés le role de la femme est tout de charme et de seduction. Elle n’a d’autres devoirs à remplir que ceux qui lui sont imposés sous le nom des devoirs de société.

La Mode Retrouvée

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Chacune de ses robes m’apparaissait comme une ambiance naturelle, nécessaire, comme la projection d’un aspect particulier de son âme.

Chanel and Her Rivals

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Sandwiched between two world wars, between Poiret’s harem and Dior’s New Look, two women dominated the field of haute couture—Schiaparelli and Chanel.

Fashion under the Occupation

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

The house of Jacques Heim is no longer a Jewish house.

Ups and Downs of Paris Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Nous sortions d’une époque de guerre, d’uniformes, de femmessoldats aux carrures de boxeurs. Je dessinai des femmes-fleurs, épaules douces, bustes épanouis, tailles fines comme lianes et jupes larges comme corolles.ChristianDior, Christian Dior et moi (Paris: Amiot-Domont, 1956), p. 35. Translation in text by Valerie Steele.

Men in Skirts

Fruzsina Bekefi

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The male skirt has evolved throughout fashion history. From a traditional form of dress worn in Ancient Greece and Rome, non-bifurcated garments worn by men came to be perceived as a challenge to conventional gender norms in the West. Designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood have used male skirts to interpret masculinity through their designs in the latter half of the twentieth century. In the early twenty-first century, male skirts are gaining traction again.

Nino Cerruti

Giulia Bussinello

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Victor Victoria

Katy Conover

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Maurizio Baldassari

Katy Conover

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Capes and Cloaks

Emma Davenport

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

A cape or cloak is a layer of fabric that wraps around the body for warmth and protection and is with or without sleeves. While men have historically worn both as a military garment, they became popular as womenswear in the late 1800s. By the early 1900s, they had fallen out of fashion, replaced by a wider range of coat styles. On the catwalk, both are associated with adventure and intrigue, making them more of a romantic accessory than a daily necessity. While designers like Yves Saint Laurent a

Bianca Jagger

Jessica Draper

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The 1970s was a highly creative period in fashion, and one in which designers’ celebrity muses were prominent. Model and actress Bianca Jagger was a very fashionable friend to designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Roy Halston, and became a particularly memorable icon of the 1970s, embodying the eclectic style that came to define the decade. Jagger referenced themes of exoticism, menswear, and the 1940s in her attention-grabbing wardrobe, which became a subject of particular press interest afte

Mitsuhiro Matsuda

Elizabeth Glendinning

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Margaret Howell

Elizabeth Glendinning

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Lolita

Kathryn A. Hardy Bernal

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The Lolita fashion-based subculture, once an underground Japanese movement, is a burgeoning worldwide industry. The style, represented by women who dress in childlike clothing, emerged on the streets in the 1970s, gaining impetus within the J-rock (Japanese rock) music scene of the 1990s. The visual kei band Malice Mizer formulated their look on New Romantic glam, inspired by 1980s collaborations between Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren; fans of the guitarist, Mana, began to mimic his unique

Men’s Blazers and Jackets of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s

Tracy Jennings

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Men’s blazer and jacket styling in the West went through a number of iterations during the latter decades of the twentieth century. These fashion changes were often a result of prevailing economic, social, and technological conditions. The 1970s gave rise to the three-piece disco suit. A booming 1980s economy was reflected in the exaggerated shoulders of the power suit. The grunge movement countered this fashion excess. An individualistic philosophy took hold in the mid-1990s, with consumers no l

Women’s Blazers and Jackets of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s

Tracy Jennings

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Women’s blazer and jacket styling in the West went through a number of iterations during the latter decades of the twentieth century. These fashion changes were often a result of prevailing economic, social, and technological conditions. The 1970s gave rise to disco. A booming 1980s economy was reflected in the exaggerated shoulders of the power suit. The grunge movement countered this fashion excess. An individualistic philosophy took hold in the mid-1990s, with consumers no longer feeling compe

Yves Saint Laurent

Casey Mackenzie Johnson

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Marlon Brando

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The white T-shirt, the biker jacket, jeans: these three items have become so ingrained in menswear’s fashion lexicon that it is almost difficult to conceive the relative newness of these classic wardrobe staples within the context of menswear’s history. In fact, it is perhaps even more difficult to fathom what the fate of these integral menswear items would have been without the legendary style impact of Marlon Brando. One of the most influential and celebrated American screen and stage actors of

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