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Dartless Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Dartless designsblouse and shirt silhouettesBodice and blouse designsdartless blouseThe silhouettes within this chapter offer timeless, simple silhouettes that are used in designing blouses, vests, or dresses that do not require the use of a bust-fitting dart. These silhouette shapes can be made short or extended to the length desired, depending upon the design. Various styles may use details such as numerous neckline shapes, collars, yokes, stylelines, tucks, added fullness, and different sleeve

Tweed: Terms, Descriptions, and Characteristics

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The word tweed began to be used to denote woolen cloths from Scotland in the twill weave from the 1830s.The Satirist, September 2, 1838, front cover. Before that decade, its only form was the proper noun, Tweed, which is the name of a river that flows through the Scottish Borders region. That river became well known throughout Britain and to an extent, Europe, in the early nineteenth century because of its close associations with the famous writer, Sir Walter Scott, who lived near it.D.Watson, “T

Image Consulting

Shannon Burns-Tran and Jenny B. Davis

Source: Style Wise. A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Image consultingImage consultantIn this chapter you will learn:

Society, Menswear and Trends

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

La Follet (magazine) Fashion and menswear are often influenced by socioeconomic and cultural influences in society, and this has been the case since their earliest days. A historical foundation of trend knowledge is necessary for better analysis and foresight; we can learn much from historical patterns about what men will want to buy in seasons to come. In this chapter we discuss the importance of history and its role in menswear trend practice by looking at some key events and how they influence

Defining Trend Thinking and Concepts

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

ForecastingMeme theorytrend analysisTrend forecastingtrend predictionTrend thinking Trend prediction information is important for retailers and designers alike. Often menswear design graduates want to become trend-setting designers, which means focusing on a small sector of the market. However, the majority of menswear brands prefer to provide products that most men want – that is, that are targeted at the mainstream market. Of course, creativity cannot be removed from the process, but by taking

Menswear Retail and Trends

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Retailtrend services by Retail – referring to the broader concept of the commercial activity of selling and buying – is one of the largest sectors to use trend services. Trend data and information can be used in numerous ways and in various sectors of menswear retail. For example, it can be used in the design of the actual product, if the retailer has its own brand, or it can be used in buying as an investment guide for the next season. Merchandisers work closely with buyers and with designers in

Trend Details for Business

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

VetementsMacy’sClose-to-selling-seasonCamouflageanalysisBurberry In this chapter we will explore what information should be gathered from catwalks, street styling and trade shows. These three areas form the basis for a wellrounded trend analysis, which can serve as a starting point for a longer-term trend forecast. Catwalks are usually considered near-season analysis, which is used by companies that want to understand the current state of the menswear business.

How to Research Trends

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In trend forecasting we are not initially researching one particular area of interest, but gathering information on as many areas as possible. Even in fashion, one needs to be aware of what is happening in areas as diverse as politics and the economy. These areas are intertwined and ultimately influence fashion. Politics directly influences society and economics, which will ultimately influence spending. At times of economic uncertainty, spending goes down and also becomes more concentrated on es

Application of Trend Data

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

TrendinformationTextile View (magazine) Trends and trend research are useful in several different areas of the men's fashion business. Within larger menswear corporations there are often specific menswear brands that utilize trend information in various different ways, from packaging to selection of materials. Similarly, retailers use numerous sectors, such as general trend direction, colour and material information, to influence their decision process from visual merchandising to buying.

Trends and the Industry

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Trend forecastingprofessional roles inTrend presentation exercisetrend analyst/forecaster Trends appear in various sectors of the menswear industry, from retail to menswear publications. Trend information is channelled to retailers either from full service trend agencies and freelancers or from in-house trend analysts. These analysts gather information from the Internet, magazines and retail. Each of these channels offers various professional opportunities for a fashion and design graduate with t

Wearers and Wardrobes

Sheila Cliffe

Source: The Social Life of Kimono. Japanese Fashion Past and Present, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Wardrobe(s)Wardrobe(s)wardrobe studiesThe fashion fashionsystemsystem is realized in the creation of the fashion items, and in their diffusion to the public through mediamedia images. However, a fashion system does not exist without fashion leaders and followers. If there are no wearers, then there is no fashion. This chapter investigates kimono wearing practice through a wardrobe survey of kimono wearerskimono wearers, discussion of kimono group(s)groups, and also through interviews with kimono

Understanding Product Trends: What Customers Buy

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

product line,As a buyer, you must plan and control the kinds of products that will be offered in your store or department. In other words, you must be concerned with the merchandise mix,merchandise mix—the types or mix of products that are available for customers to purchase. The merchandise mix that you select should meet the specific needs of your customers. It must be frequently monitored because an appropriate mix today might not contain the right products tomorrow.

Gender and Trends—On Variability

Jenny Lantz

Source: The Trendmakers. Behind the Scenes of the Global Fashion Industry, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Men always look a bit silly in a trend, don’t they?

Designs, Brands and Trends—To Leave a Mark

Jenny Lantz

Source: The Trendmakers. Behind the Scenes of the Global Fashion Industry, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The 1990s and 2000s were characterized by the emergence of “fast fashion.” With more efficient buying and distribution processes, mass-market fashion chainsmass-market fashion chains, such as the pioneering Spanish firm Zara, could get their clothes into their stores much more quickly than ever before. Fast-fashion chains broke with the seasonal model that had earlier dominated the industry, offering new goods every week. By transferring production to low-cost countries, primarily in Asia, where

Innerwear, Bodywear, Legwear

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

In the past, the manufacturing and marketing of men's and children's underwear was driven by considerations of practical functionality, but lately, these segments of the apparel industry have also felt the impact of fashion. Through mergers and acquisitions, producers of men's and children's underwear have become divisions of more diversified apparel firms. This trend is discussed later in this chapter.

Men's Apparel

Elaine Stone and Sheryl A. Farnan

Source: The Dynamics of Fashion, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The oldest of the domestic apparel industries, the menswear industry gave birth to the women's and children's wear industries. It got its start in the late 1700s. Prior to that, the rich patronized tailor Slop shops,shops, where their clothing was custom-made or fitted to them. Everyone else wore homemade clothing.

Coda

Carol Tulloch

Source: The Birth of Cool. Style Narratives of the African Diaspora, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Liberty of Dress

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Nulle personne de l’un ou de l’autre sexe ne pourra contraindre aucun citoyen ni citoyenne à se vêtir d’une manière particulière, chacun étant libre de porter tel vêtement et ajustement de son sexe que bon lui semblera, sous peine d’être considéré et traité comme suspect, et poursuivi comme perturbateur du repos public.

Fashion in Balzac’s Paris

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

La toilette est l’expression de la société.

The Black Prince of Elegance

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Eternelle superiorité du Dandy.

La Mode Retrouvée

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Chacune de ses robes m’apparaissait comme une ambiance naturelle, nécessaire, comme la projection d’un aspect particulier de son âme.

Twelve: Cobranding Fashion for the Masses: Topshop/Topman

Joseph H. Hancock

Source: Brand Story. Cases and Explorations in Fashion Branding, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Celebrity collaborations are global and far-reaching. Great Britain’s version of UNIQLO and H&M is Topshop/Topman. But Topshop/ Topman has done things a little differently by taking the discount model and giving it a little more panache and style. This retailer has branded itself as the complete one-stop shop for one’s entire wardrobe, hair, makeup, and even eyebrows.

Dolce and Gabbana

Rio Ali

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Men in Skirts

Fruzsina Bekefi

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The male skirt has evolved throughout fashion history. From a traditional form of dress worn in Ancient Greece and Rome, non-bifurcated garments worn by men came to be perceived as a challenge to conventional gender norms in the West. Designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood have used male skirts to interpret masculinity through their designs in the latter half of the twentieth century. In the early twenty-first century, male skirts are gaining traction again.

Nino Cerruti

Giulia Bussinello

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

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