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The Birth of Paris Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Le travail des modes est un art: art chéri, triomphant, qui dans ce siècle, a reçu des honneurs, des distinctions. Cet art entre dans le palais des Rois, [et] y reçoit un accueil flatteur.

Liberty of Dress

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Nulle personne de l’un ou de l’autre sexe ne pourra contraindre aucun citoyen ni citoyenne à se vêtir d’une manière particulière, chacun étant libre de porter tel vêtement et ajustement de son sexe que bon lui semblera, sous peine d’être considéré et traité comme suspect, et poursuivi comme perturbateur du repos public.

Fashion in Balzac’s Paris

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

La toilette est l’expression de la société.

Fashioning the Parisienne

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

J’ai sous les yeux une série de gravures de mode. Ces costumes presentent un charme d’une nature double, artistique et historique.

The Theater of Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Nous savons donc beaucoup de gré à mademoiselle Nathalie des sacrifices qu’elle fait pour ses costumes; de beaux habits sur de jolies femmes, rien n’est plus charmant.

The Private Life of Paris

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Dans ces sphères élevés le role de la femme est tout de charme et de seduction. Elle n’a d’autres devoirs à remplir que ceux qui lui sont imposés sous le nom des devoirs de société.

La Mode Retrouvée

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Chacune de ses robes m’apparaissait comme une ambiance naturelle, nécessaire, comme la projection d’un aspect particulier de son âme.

Chanel and Her Rivals

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Sandwiched between two world wars, between Poiret’s harem and Dior’s New Look, two women dominated the field of haute couture—Schiaparelli and Chanel.

Fashion under the Occupation

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

The house of Jacques Heim is no longer a Jewish house.

Ups and Downs of Paris Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History 3rd Edition 2017

Book chapter

Nous sortions d’une époque de guerre, d’uniformes, de femmessoldats aux carrures de boxeurs. Je dessinai des femmes-fleurs, épaules douces, bustes épanouis, tailles fines comme lianes et jupes larges comme corolles.ChristianDior, Christian Dior et moi (Paris: Amiot-Domont, 1956), p. 35. Translation in text by Valerie Steele.

Dolce and Gabbana

Rio Ali

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Victor Victoria

Katy Conover

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Capes and Cloaks

Emma Davenport

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

A cape or cloak is a layer of fabric that wraps around the body for warmth and protection and is with or without sleeves. While men have historically worn both as a military garment, they became popular as womenswear in the late 1800s. By the early 1900s, they had fallen out of fashion, replaced by a wider range of coat styles. On the catwalk, both are associated with adventure and intrigue, making them more of a romantic accessory than a daily necessity. While designers like Yves Saint Laurent a

Women’s Blazers and Jackets of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s

Tracy Jennings

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Women’s blazer and jacket styling in the West went through a number of iterations during the latter decades of the twentieth century. These fashion changes were often a result of prevailing economic, social, and technological conditions. The 1970s gave rise to disco. A booming 1980s economy was reflected in the exaggerated shoulders of the power suit. The grunge movement countered this fashion excess. An individualistic philosophy took hold in the mid-1990s, with consumers no longer feeling compe

Yves Saint Laurent

Casey Mackenzie Johnson

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Tomasz Starzewski

Nanna Marie Lund

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Jazz Style on the Catwalk, 1970s–2000s

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

From 1970 to 2000, the influence of jazz culture on the women’s catwalk is pinpointed by the confluence of masculine and feminine details. Designers, during the three decades, interpreted the tuxedo and double-breasted suit that were standardized uniforms of early jazz musicians. Particularly for African American performers, these formal garments bolstered access to mainstream culture, social and economic equality, celebrity, and musical distinction. These utilities are paramount to its exhibitio

Hanae Mori

Shari Sims

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Céline

Laura Snelgrove

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Jacqueline Hancher

Tory Turk

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Coco Chanel and Socialist Fashion Magazines

Djurdja Bartlett

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present 2013

Book chapter

The encounter between Coco Chanel and the world’s first socialist country—the Bolshevik Russia—did not happen in the early 1920s when both Chanel and socialism were still modernist projects. Following the 1917 October revolution, the Bolsheviks embraced the speed of the new era, worshiped the machine and acknowledged a crisis in the representation of the female gender. Moreover, the main Bolshevik artistic supporters—the constructivists—chose geometric abstraction as their visual language. In tha

American Women’s Fashions 1970–1979

Daniel Delis Hill

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The 1970s was an era of striking contrasts in women’s fashions. In the early 1970s, the thigh-high miniskirt dominated, but by the end of the decade, most hemlines were well below the knee, some sweeping the ankles. The polyester double-knit pantsuit and platform shoes were favored by career women of the early 1970s, but a few years later, natural fibers and designer logos of the layered look prevailed in corporate offices. Sexualized styles such as hot pants and snug, hiphugger bell-bottoms were

Victorian Fashion

Rebecca N. Mitchell

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

This article offers a review of the major sartorial trends that occurred in Britain during the reign of Queen Victoria (1837–1901), to suggest that evolving women’s and men’s fashions in the period reflect the social, political, and economic developments of the day. In addition to discussing the evolution of Victorian style, the article treats industrial and retail innovations (including the rise of mass-produced garments and the department store), progressive movements (including the Rational Dr

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