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Twill Weaves

Deborah E. Young

Source: Swatch Reference Guide for Fashion Fabrics, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The floats (skipped interlacings that create diagonal wales) found in a twill have the following impact on fabric:

Sportswear, Knit, and Print

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Men's fashions all start as sports clothes and progress to the great occasions of state. The tail coat, which started out as a hunting coat, is just finishing such a journey. The tracksuit is just beginning one.

Eight: The Retro-Branding of American Heritage: Levi Strauss & Co.

Joseph H. Hancock

Source: Brand Story. Cases and Explorations in Fashion Branding, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There is a common mistaken notion that Levi Strauss invented denim jeans while working in a gold mine in California. Actually, Levi Strauss was born of German Jewish immigrants in 1829. At the age of eighteen, he and his two sisters moved to the United States to join his two brothers, who had started a wholesale dry goods business in New York City called J. Strauss Brothers & Co. Later Levi Strauss moved to Louisville, Kentucky, to sell his brothers’ dry goods.

Dsquared2

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Kostas Murkudis

Alessandro Esculapio

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Marithé + François Girbaud (house)

Sandra J. Ley

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Mark Eisen

Emily M. Orr

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

The New Millennium 2000–2014

Phyllis G. Tortora and Sara B. Marcketti

Source: Survey of Historic Costume, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The European Economic Community developed and expanded its functions as trade and investment among members increased. Barriers to moving capital and curbs on financial services were reduced, and citizens of participating countries began using European passports. Beginning in 2002, euro notes and coins were issued. By 2013 membership expanded to include 28 countries, with 18 of the member states using the shared monetary system. But beginning in 2009, countries in the euro zone’s underperforming e

The Design Process and Specialty Apparel

Evelyn L. Brannon

Source: Designer’s Guide to Fashion Apparel, 2011, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

“The consumer wants to see value, a perceived need, and/or an emotional connection to the product. In response to this we have added value by incorporating fabric innovation and sharpening our design focus.”

The Making of an American Icon: The Transformation of Blue Jeans during the Great Depression

Sandra Curtis Comstock

Source: Global Denim, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

As the chapters in this volume show, at the current conjuncture, an astonishing number of people in a striking number of cultural contexts have come to deploy jeans as a symbol of movement between social worlds and boundary crossing – be it generation, gender, culture, religion or class-inflected boundary crossing. In a world characterized by intensifying exchange and transposable goods, produced by the now ‘virtually universal intersection of (cultural) structures’, blue jeans seem to epitomize

Adapting Georg Simmel’s classic reflections on fashion, Daniel Miller and Sophie Woodward (2007: 341-2) have suggested that the near-global ubiquity of jeans offers people different ways of negotiating the conflicting socio-cultural forces of conformity and individuality. In Woodward’s British study, for instance, using a familiar and hardly spectacular example, jeans provided a ‘relief from the burden of mistaken choice and anxious self-composition’ that women continuously felt (Miller and Woodw

The Limits of Jeans in Kannur, Kerala

Daniel Miller

Source: Global Denim, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Within the context of a study of global denim, South Asia is significant in representing perhaps the only remaining major region of the world where the wearing of jeans remains relatively uncommon. No one place can stand for South Asia, but an advantage of Kannur, a town in northern Kerala, is that at least for that state, it represents in the minds of its inhabitants, a clear position midway between the cosmopolitanism of the metropolis and the conservatism of the countryside. As such, many peop

’Brazilian Jeans’: Materiality, Body and Seduction at a Rio de Janeiro’s Funk Ball

Mylene Mizrahi

Source: Global Denim, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

For reasons concerning the politics of power governing the site I had chosen to do my fieldwork on, I was told by the party’s manager that I should not talk to the dancers at the events. If I wanted to do my research there I should carry it out in a discreet and silent way. Not daring to question this, I went to the top of the stand facing the dance floor and started to watch the festivities from there. My project of considering the objects through their materiality and agency had to be postponed

How Blue Jeans went Green: The Materiality of an American Icon

Bodil Birkœbwk Olesen

Source: Global Denim, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

First they built the country’s infrastructure, then they populated it with a collective identity

The Jeans that Don’t Fit: Marketing Cheap Jeans in Brazil

Rosana Pinheiro-Machado

Source: Global Denim, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In the Denim Manifesto anthropologists are challenged to study denim – something that is commonplace in our everyday lives but notably absent from ethnographic analyses. As a manifesto, the authors refute the ontological philosophical logic that an element, such as clothing, that is located on the surface of bodies is intrinsically a superficial problem. Instead they consider the philosophical implications of the use of jeans – a clothing resource that resolves the anxiety and the contradictions

Indigo Bodies: Fashion, Mirror Work and Sexual Identity in Milan

Roberta Sassatelli

Source: Global Denim, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Pondering over her wardrobe, Francesca, a stylish, freshly graduated woman in her mid-twenties, says that, whilst they are ‘vital’ to her, ‘Denim jeans just sit with the rest [of her clothes]: they are just in the middle of the mess, but I take them out much more often, so always know where they are’ (Interview 15). These few words allude to the particular position that jeans – normal and yet special – occupy in young people dressing practices. This partly reflects what youth from Milan participa

Diverting Denim: Screening Jeans in Bollywood

Clare M. Wilkinson-Weber

Source: Global Denim, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

During a research visit to Bombay in 2008, I asked a young costume assistant, as we sat talking in a suburban Bombay coffee house, how often she had sourced jeans for films. She replied: ‘Denim is big in films. Our actors are wearing denim throughout the film. They have to have jeans, unless they are wearing a suit. I cannot think of a film where we haven’t used jeans, even actresses.’

Jeanealogies: Materiality and the (Im)permanence of Relationships and Intimacy

Sophie Woodward

Source: Global Denim, 2011, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

I wear his jeans when I’m on my own in my flat … I don’t know why … I guess it makes me feel like I’m still close to him, kind of comforted …

Global Denim

Daniel Miller and Sophie Woodward

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Although blue jeans appear to be the most common garment worn in today’s world, accounting for nearly half of what people wear in many countries on a given day, there is almost no literature on denim in the contemporary world. The Global Denim Project was established to try and explain why people wear denim. Arguments from history or commerce are insufficient to explain. Instead this article reflects on four key qualities. That the bulk of denim is cheap and generic rather not designer produced.

Jeans

Clare Sauro

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The first true “jeans” were created in 1873 by Jacob Davis, a Nevada tailor, who went in with Levi Strauss, a San Francisco merchant, for the patent. The pair received a patent for the addition of copper rivets at the pocket joinings of work pants to prevent tearing—a boon to the many California miners and laborers. The first jeans Levi-Strauss and Co. produced were available in brown cotton duck and blue denim and were known as waist overalls (the name jeans not adopted until the mid-1900s). In

Jeans

Phyllis G. Tortora

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The evolution of blue jeans from ordinary working dress into an international fashion classic began in California shortly after the start of the Gold Rush of 1849. Levi Strauss was a Bavarian immigrant seeking to expand the New York–based family-run dry goods business. Strauss arrived in San Francisco in 1853 and established a wholesale fabric supply house. One of his customers was Jacob Davis, a tailor who made blue denim work pants for miners and other laborers. Responding to complaints about p

Levi Strauss & Co.

Lauren D. Whitley

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Tying It All Together. . . Your Personal Style

Nancy Plummer

Source: Your Personal Style, 2009, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

“I dress for the image. Not for myself, not for the public, not for fashion, not for men.”

Introduction: Perry’s Background Information

Donna W. Reamy and Cynthia W. Steele

Source: Perry’s Department Store: An Importing Simulation, 2006, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

After completing the simulation, you will be able to:

Your First Job and Beyond

V. Ann Paulins and Julie L. Hillery

Source: Careers! Professional Development for Retailing and Apparel Merchandising, 2005, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Your real education begins now.

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