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Stripes and Plaids

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

A stripe is a band of color or texture that may be vertical, horizontal, or diagonal. It can be woven or printed in one or many colors and the stripes may vary in width. Using the center-front principle we can begin to understand vertical and horizontal stripes, which when combined form a pattern called a plaid. A plaid is a design of stripes intersecting at right angles.

Rendering Concepts

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

For the purposes of this book, we will group the fabrics into four categories, which include: (1) wool and other textured fabrics; (2) shiny fabrics; (3) sheers; and (4) prints. To help you understand these breakdowns and categories, let's take a look at each one.

Laying Out, Cutting, and Stitching Knits

Julie Cole

Source: Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

An L-square ruler and a tape measure are required tools you need for laying out and cutting knits. The remaining tools you need are as follows (see also Figure 4.1):

Project Five—Photoshop: Stripes and Weaves

Robert Hume

Source: Fashion and Textile Design with Photoshop and Illustrator. Professional Creative Practice, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In this project you will:

Project Thirteen—Illustrator: The Blob and Art Brushes

Robert Hume

Source: Fashion and Textile Design with Photoshop and Illustrator. Professional Creative Practice, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In this project you will:

Dsquared2

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Markus Lupfer

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

John Galliano, Spring/Summer 1990

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The unexpected success of John Galliano’s graduate collection for Saint Martin’s School of Art in 1984 led to an account with the London department store Browns and opportunities for financial backing. Galliano immersed himself in the creative process, with little concern for business matters. In 1987 he was announced as British Designer of the Year; he would receive the award again in 1994, 1995, and 1997. Galliano had been active in the London club scene during his time at Saint Martin’s. This

Emilio Pucci

Rio Ali

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Camouflage on the Catwalk

Ariel Beaujot

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The camouflage pattern that is so ubiquitous in Western clothing styles was developed to hide machinery during World War I; it only became a pattern for clothing for troops in World War II. “Camo” is key for war because it helps items blend into the background and it disrupts the shape of forms. Largely because of Army Surplus Stores, camo became a pattern used in street fashion in the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s. The meaning of camo in this period varied from antiwar protest to a reconnection with n

Valentino

Lauren Bowes

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Clements Ribeiro

Amber Jane Butchart

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Fabric

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

If you want the very finest fabric for classic tailoring, choose wool. There is an endless variety of beautiful fabrics available to us today, most of which will respond favorably to certain tailoring features. There is no reason to limit your wardrobe to one fabric. However, full tailoring procedures (canvas, haircloth, tape, etc.) will produce their best results for wool. Silk and linen are close seconds.

Emanuel Ungaro

Katy Conover

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Breton Stripe Shirt, Jean Paul Gaultier, 1997

Lorynn Divita

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Throughout Jean Paul Gaultier’s career he has created a recognizable body of work based on iconic looks including trench coats, corsets, and berets, among others. But first and foremost, Gaultier has come to be permanently associated with the Breton stripe top, also known as la marinière, or a “sailor” top. From its origins as a staple of the sailor’s uniform in the Bretagne region of France, then in the entire French navy, the shirt has retained an aura of romance and simplicity that has appeale

Vivienne Westwood, “Anglomania,” Fall/Winter 1993–1994

Hayley-Jane Edwards-Dujardin

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

From being queen of punk in the mid-1970s, Vivienne Westwood slightly moved, from the 1980s, to being a supporter of British fashion’s establishment. Inspired by traditional craftsmanship and eighteenth-century art, the designer has since infused her collections with historicism. With her fall/winter 1993–1994 “Anglomania” show, Vivienne Westwood epitomized her interest in English and Scottish traditions while mingling masculine tailoring with outrageously feminine forms. Featuring laced bodices,

Animal Print

Jenny Evans

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Abbott H. Thayer, artist and naturalist, hailed the coloration and patterning of animals to be the pinnacle of “obliterative camouflage,” yet the use of animal print in fashion serves to draw attention to the wearer. Fabrics and hides printed to mimic the fur or skins of animals have been used in fashionable clothing since the eighteenth century and a catwalk staple since the 1930s. The cultural connotations of animal prints are complex and divisive; they are considered glamorous and gauche in eq

Tartan

Jonathan Faiers

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The fabric that’s never out of fashion; tartan is indelibly associated with punk and Vivienne Westwood, but its use in fashion reaches much farther back, to its peak of popularity in the nineteenth century, and forward via Alexander McQueen and on into many of today’s most memorable collections. At once traditional and revolutionary, conservative and subversive, tartan is genderless, instantly recognizable, and infinitely adaptable. Beloved as much by Japanese, European, and American designers as

Carven

Stephanie Edith Herold

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Bill Blass, Fall/Winter 1997

Michelle Honig

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Shown in the tents at Bryant Park, New York, Bill Blass’s fall/winter 1997 collection did not have any one particular theme. Instead, he designed simple, classic clothes encompassing a range of styles and looks. There were hints of the 1980s, a decade that other designers—such as Oscar de la Renta—looked to for inspiration for their own fall collections. There were animal prints—ranging from giraffe to python—that glorified the animal kingdom, cubist-patterned velvet jackets over wool pants, and

Paul Smith

Casey Mackenzie Johnson

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Sonia Rykiel

Morna Laing

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Etro

Sandra J. Ley

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Florals

Tessa Maffucci

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Floral designs are ubiquitous in fashion. They appear reliably with each new season, spring or fall, as designers attempt to find new ways to iterate this now traditional motif. The history of floral textiles is complex. Flower designs have been intimately tied up with colonialism and the convergence of cultures of dress; however, the patterns themselves are often seen in simplistic terms as signifying femininity or pastoral innocence. Florals can translate the beauty of the natural world onto th

Dolce & Gabbana, Spring/Summer 1997

Tessa Maffucci

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Dolce & Gabbana’s spring/summer collection of 1997 capitalized on their strengths. Sensual chiffon hugged curvaceous (but trim) hips and bra straps peeked out from under delicate, negligee-inspired fishtail gowns. The palette of the runway was punctuated by animal prints and florals, often visible beneath the sheer material of the dresses or through open-weave crochet sweaters. Their look is sexy and upbeat, drawing influence from Domenico Dolce’s Sicilian heritage and the imagery of Italian film

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