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Couture to Pop and Nostalgic Fashion, 1953–1980

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Between the early 1950s and the late 1970s, the production of woolen cloths in Britain was still primarily concentrated in Yorkshire wool textiles industryYorkshire, Scotland and the West of England woolen industryWest of England.G. F.Rainnie, The Woollen and Worsted Industry: An Economic Analysis (Oxford: Clarendon Press, 1965), pp. 29–31. Yorkshire continued to suitsfor menform by far the largest manufacturing region and Brearley, AlanBrearley and Iredale, John A.Iredale concluded in 1977 that

Tradition and Innovation, 1981–2014

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Hardill, IreneHardill’s study shows that woolen manufacturing in Yorkshire wool textiles industryYorkshire, which was still by far the largest center of that industry in the UK had suffered major contraction by 1981.IreneHardill, The Regional Implications of Restructuring (Aldershot: Gower Publishing Company Limited, 1987), pp. 193–4. Research for this book has identified that by 2014, the few firms trading from Yorkshire that made tweeds and other woolen cloths, included Abraham Moon & SonsAbrah

Tweed, Male Fashion, and Modern Masculinities, 1851–1918

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Tweed trouserstrousers in “shepherd’s check” patternshepherd’s checks and other fancy woolensfancy patterns remained popular in Britain and Europe in the 1850s and 1860s.JamesLocke, “A Few Facts on the Tweed Trade,” The Border Advertiser, September 18, 1863, p. 3; CliffordGulvin, The Tweedmakers: A History of the Scottish Fancy Woollen Industry 1600–1914 (Newton Abbot: David & Charles, 1973), p. 80; FaridChenoune, A History of Men’s Fashion (Paris: Flammarion, 1993), pp. 84–5. The Juror’s Report

Introduction

Fiona Anderson

Source: Tweed, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Exploring contemporary fashion imagery shows that the mythical or stereotypical connotations of tweeds form a useful starting point for a deeper investigation into their history. For example, an advertisementsadvertisement in Vogue magazinesVogue for Lauren, RalphRalph Lauren’s autumn/winter 2012 womenswear collection featured outfits that were strongly influenced by British country house partiescountry clothing and 1920s fashion, including fitted jackets and jodhpurs in tweed, worn with “mannish

Introduction to Fashion Styling

Shannon Burns-Tran and Jenny B. Davis

Source: Style Wise. A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

StylingFashion stylingTrends, how to spot current and emergingIn this chapter you will learn:

Careers in Styling

Shannon Burns-Tran and Jenny B. Davis

Source: Style Wise. A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Fashion stylistdiversifyingIn this chapter you will learn:

Preparing for a Test Shoot

Shannon Burns-Tran and Jenny B. Davis

Source: Style Wise. A Practical Guide to Becoming a Fashion Stylist, 2nd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

In this chapter you will learn:

Society, Menswear and Trends

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

La Follet (magazine) Fashion and menswear are often influenced by socioeconomic and cultural influences in society, and this has been the case since their earliest days. A historical foundation of trend knowledge is necessary for better analysis and foresight; we can learn much from historical patterns about what men will want to buy in seasons to come. In this chapter we discuss the importance of history and its role in menswear trend practice by looking at some key events and how they influence

Defining Trend Thinking and Concepts

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

ForecastingMeme theorytrend analysisTrend forecastingtrend predictionTrend thinking Trend prediction information is important for retailers and designers alike. Often menswear design graduates want to become trend-setting designers, which means focusing on a small sector of the market. However, the majority of menswear brands prefer to provide products that most men want – that is, that are targeted at the mainstream market. Of course, creativity cannot be removed from the process, but by taking

Menswear Retail and Trends

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Retailtrend services by Retail – referring to the broader concept of the commercial activity of selling and buying – is one of the largest sectors to use trend services. Trend data and information can be used in numerous ways and in various sectors of menswear retail. For example, it can be used in the design of the actual product, if the retailer has its own brand, or it can be used in buying as an investment guide for the next season. Merchandisers work closely with buyers and with designers in

Trend Details for Business

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

VetementsMacy’sClose-to-selling-seasonCamouflageanalysisBurberry In this chapter we will explore what information should be gathered from catwalks, street styling and trade shows. These three areas form the basis for a wellrounded trend analysis, which can serve as a starting point for a longer-term trend forecast. Catwalks are usually considered near-season analysis, which is used by companies that want to understand the current state of the menswear business.

How to Research Trends

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In trend forecasting we are not initially researching one particular area of interest, but gathering information on as many areas as possible. Even in fashion, one needs to be aware of what is happening in areas as diverse as politics and the economy. These areas are intertwined and ultimately influence fashion. Politics directly influences society and economics, which will ultimately influence spending. At times of economic uncertainty, spending goes down and also becomes more concentrated on es

Application of Trend Data

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

TrendinformationTextile View (magazine) Trends and trend research are useful in several different areas of the men's fashion business. Within larger menswear corporations there are often specific menswear brands that utilize trend information in various different ways, from packaging to selection of materials. Similarly, retailers use numerous sectors, such as general trend direction, colour and material information, to influence their decision process from visual merchandising to buying.

Trends and the Industry

Aki Choklat

Source: Menswear Trends, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Trend forecastingprofessional roles inTrend presentation exercisetrend analyst/forecaster Trends appear in various sectors of the menswear industry, from retail to menswear publications. Trend information is channelled to retailers either from full service trend agencies and freelancers or from in-house trend analysts. These analysts gather information from the Internet, magazines and retail. Each of these channels offers various professional opportunities for a fashion and design graduate with t

Importing fashion merchandise

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

importingglobal systemIf you look around the average American household today you will quickly discover that most of the articles there are from other countries. You would find the same result when examining the labels on your wearing apparel and may even realize that 100 percent of your clothes have been imported with much of it from China, as the 2015 dollar value in apparel imports from China alone totaled $30,540,941,000.http://otexa.trade.gov/msrcty/v5700.htm (viewed on August 23, 2016).

Exporting for the fashion industry

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

A rise in an awareness of the importance of reshoring has been especially noticeable in the fashion industry, and particularly so within cities which had enjoyed historical economic prominence thanks to the industry. One such example is that of New York CityNew York City, where several notable facilities have opened up to support local garment manufacturing and fashion innovation such as the Brooklyn Design + Fashion Accelerator of Pratt College, and Manufacture NY.

Working with logistics and transportation providers

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Reliable transportation is important not only for the protection of goods in transit but also to protect the “bottom line” of wholesalers and importers. This is because some retailers impose severe penalties on a seller who delivers late or otherwise causes a shipment to be considered a misdelivery. This can occur for several reasons, such as that a delivery was made to the wrong store location, or that the merchandise received was in the wrong color, style, size, or was otherwise nonconforming.

Making and Marketing

Sheila Cliffe

Source: The Social Life of Kimono. Japanese Fashion Past and Present, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The market research data in the “Kimono industryIndustry White Paper” revealed the strong downward trend in kimono sales after the economic bubble in the mid-1980s, see Chapter 3, Chart 3.1. The reasons were not only the increasingly poor state of the economy, but, as explained in that chapter, the unwieldy distribution system associated with a crafts-based industry and also the perceptions about kimono being expensive and difficult to wear that had been created by the industry itself. The effect

Today’s Buying Environment

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Retailing consists of all the business activities involved in the selling of goods and services to the ultimate consumers. Retailing, however, does not always require a store. Catalog sales, vending machines, e-commerce, and mall kiosks all fit within the scope of retailing. No matter where retailing occurs, however, someone must perform the buying function. Buying is the business activity that involves selecting and purchasing products to satisfy the wants and needs of consumers. Buying involves

The Buying Function in Retailing

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

buyers,factors affecting scope of,buyers,Often, buying appeals to college students because they see the glamour associated with frequent travel to exciting places, such as New York City, Los Angeles, Paris, Hong Kong, or Milan, for buying trips where they get to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars, and in some cases even millions of dollars, on the newest styles andfashion merchandise,fashions. Travel may be exciting, but often all that a buyer may see of a city is the view from a taxi on the

Buying for Different Types of Stores

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

buying,different types of products,buying,at different retail formats,Almost all the duties that are described in the last chapter are performed by a buyer at any type of retail store—no matter what products are sold. As you start to plan your career in retail buying, one of your first decisions should be to determine the types of merchandise that would interest you the most. Are you more interested insoft lines,soft lines orhard lines,hard lines? Soft lines are typically the apparel and accessor

Obtaining Assistance for Making Buying Decisions

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Marketing research is a systematic process of gathering, recording, and analyzing information about problems related to marketing. Good marketing research must be conducted in a comprehensive, step-by-step process; it cannot be haphazard. Marketing research involves using information, or data, from many different sources. As a buyer you must be able to do more than locate information; you must be able to analyze and use the information that you collect.

Understanding Your Customers

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

positioning,marketing orientation developing consumer orientation,image,Aretail strategy,retailer’s success is directly dependent on consumer satisfaction; therefore, as a buyer you must be responsive to the wants and needs of consumers. Let’s review some key marketing concepts that affect all retailers today.

Understanding Product Trends: What Customers Buy

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

product line,As a buyer, you must plan and control the kinds of products that will be offered in your store or department. In other words, you must be concerned with the merchandise mix,merchandise mix—the types or mix of products that are available for customers to purchase. The merchandise mix that you select should meet the specific needs of your customers. It must be frequently monitored because an appropriate mix today might not contain the right products tomorrow.

Forecasting

Richard Clodfelter

Source: Retail Buying. From Basics to Fashion, 6th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

forecast,scope of,Buyers typically develop forecasts to answer questions such as these:

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