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Walter Van Beirendonck

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Moroccan Lifestyle Media

M. Angela Jansen

Source: Moroccan Fashion. Design, tradition and modernity 2015

Book chapter

As was discussed in Chapter 2, the Moroccan nationalist movementnationalist movement brought, among other things, tremendous changes in the lives, consciousness and ambitionambitions of Moroccan women by the middle of the twentieth century. More women were enjoying an educationeducation and soon they discovered the impact the written word could have on their cause. Therefore a first generation of Moroccan women’s magazines introduced in the 1960s were all run by renowned feminists and had a stron

Investing (in) Time: Collecting and Consuming the Past

Heike Jenss

Source: Fashioning Memory. Vintage Style and Youth Culture 2015

Book chapter

In Germany, markets for used goods, including clothes, have a long history, yet their patronage from consumers who do not rely on them out of economic necessity emerges, as in other European countries, more widely in the 1970s. Volker Fischer, VolkerFischer’s 1980 book on the “nostalgia market” in Germany provides a comprehensive overview of the development of the trade, and the shift in value of old things in the context of the 1970s, when there is surplussurplus in goods and also (compared to t

African Influences in European Fashion Design

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Since the late nineteenth century, European fashion design has been lured by the exotic “otherness” of Africa as a source of creative inspiration and exotic raw materials, such as ivory and tropical woods, for use in luxury consumer goods. The more recent stylistic appropriation, since the 1970s, of African motifs, patterns, and color combinations has became increasingly prominent in European fashion and needs to be understood as part of the industry’s continual cross-cultural pursuit of innovati

Christian Lacroix Haute Couture, Spring/Summer 1998

Jennifer Grayer Moore

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The spring/summer haute couture collection of 1998 by Christian Lacroix is a case study in the high theatrics that came to define much of haute couture design in the 1990s. Bold and clashing colors, patterns juxtaposed to test the very definition of good taste, and incongruous assemblages of historical details that have been inverted and exploded, manipulated, and subverted permeate this collection and beg the question of the role such clothes might play in a woman’s wardrobe. Lacroix’s work, vie

Modeling History: How Models Have Changed Between the 1970s and 2000

Julia Rea

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The role and significance of the fashion model has been subject to a series of profound changes since the professionalization of the occupation in the late nineteenth century. These variations have been catalyzed by a wide range of social, cultural, and creative influences, from shifting trends in photography and fashion and changing ideals of beauty and femininity to the advent of technology, the Internet, and social media. When Vogue launched in the United States in 1892, the magazine’s fashion

Reel to Real Life: Re-Fashioning India from Bollywood to Street

Arti Sandhu

Source: Indian Fashion. Tradition, Innovation, Style 2015

Book chapter

Cinema in India is an extremely influential cultural medium. India has the world’s largest film industry with over 1,000 films produced every year in more than 20 languagesIbid. and over 14 million Indians go to the movies on a daily basis.In 2008 the industry was valued at approximately US$2.2 billion, and expected to grow by 9 percent p.a. till 2015 (Deloitte 2011 report: “Media & Entertainment in India Digital Road Ahead.” www.deloitte.com/in [accessed June 4, 2013]) Many more watch them at ho

Hair from the 1970s to 2000

Shari Sims

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

A hairstyle can be thought of as a woman’s ultimate accessory, subject to changing whims and changing fashions. On the catwalk, hairstyles are often collaborations between fashion designers and multitalented hairstylists, who envision their collaborations as artistic creations rather than mere expressions of style. From the 1970s on, as images of fashion spread more and more rapidly via newspapers, magazines, TV, and— eventually—the Internet, hairstyling options ranged from the attention-getting

Costume National

Shari Sims

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

How New Are New Media? The Case of Fashion Blogs

Djurdja Bartlett, Shaun Cole and Agnès Rocamora (eds)

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present 2013

Book chapter

The 1990s saw the birth of blogs—a contraction of the terms Web and log shortened into its present form by blogger Peter Merholz in 1999 (Rettberg 2008: 26)—with their number soaring from 50 in 1999 (Kaye 2007: 128) to over 181 million by the end of 2011 (Nielsenwire 2012). When in 2003 the genre—a regular, often daily, online posting of one’s musings on a variety of topics—was appropriated by a young American woman to document her style, the first blog devoted to fashion—nogoodforme—was created.

Current Issues in The Fashion Media: Industry Roundtable

Djurdja Bartlett, Shaun Cole and Agnès Rocamora (eds)

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present 2013

Book chapter

Laura Bradley, former fashion features editor at SHOWstudio, editor of i-D online (at the time of the conference), and now editor of Another.com and commissioning editor of Another Magazine

Fashion’s Digital Body: Seeing and Feeling in Fashion Interactives

Eugenie Shinkle

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present 2013

Book chapter

For many years, the photograph has been fashion’s primary media form. Over the past decade, however, the dissemination of fashion has grown to encompass much more than still images: it now includes films, podcasts, Web sites, sound works, online magazines and other forms—all increasingly articulated around virtual bodies and located in virtual spaces. These days, the launch of a collection by a major fashion house is accompanied by a cross-platform media experience: ‘streamed as a YouTube runway

Fashion Modelling, Blink Technologies and New Imaging Regimes

Elizabeth Wissinger

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present 2013

Book chapter

The imaging regime dominated by the Internet has changed many things. In a world now punctuated by pop-ups, pings and tweets, we relate to images differently. Images dance at the margins of our vision whether we are at work or at play. With the dawn of this imaging regime in the late 1980s and early 1990s, attention spans have been overwhelmed, pathways of suggestion have proliferated and the volatility of markets has reached a rapid boil.

Introduction, Rationale, Context

Pamela Church Gibson

Source: Fashion and Celebrity Culture 2012

Book chapter

Fashion is the medicament that will console for the phenomenon of forgetting on a collective scale.

The Changing Face(s) of the Fashion Magazine and the New Media Landscape

Pamela Church Gibson

Source: Fashion and Celebrity Culture 2012

Book chapter

Magazines directed at women alone first appeared in the eighteenth century: the purveying of information about the latest fashions was part of their remit, but they had other tasks to perform. The earliest magazines on both sides of the Atlantic were serious publications, often with an educational element (Ferguson 1983; Gough-Yates 2003). Nevertheless, they always contained line drawings and perhaps coloured plates of the latest fashions from Paris. The idea that the function of the magazine inc

Visual Media and Dress

Stella Bruzzi and Pamela Gibson Church

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Visual media have played an enormous role in the development of fashion in West Europe. Fashion imagery emerged within print journalism, more specifically women’s magazines, in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The development of popular cinema in the first half of the twentieth century had a momentous impact on the global fashion industry, especially in the star system, the “tie-in,” and the involvement of both couturiers and ready-to-wear designers in film. From the radical changes of th

Body and Beauty

Patrizia Calefato

Translated by Sveva Scaramuzzi

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The concept of human “race” was extended for the first time from its meaning of “lineage” or “descent” by Georges Cuvier (1769–1823) who gave it a classificatory, hierarchical meaning. During the nineteenth century, this conception led to racial biology and eugenics. Notwithstanding the researchers’ intentions, the idea of “race” constituted the basis for nineteenth- and twentieth-century racist ideologies. The idea of feminine beauty also evolved in relation to the genesis of racism. Fashion bec

Influence of the Web

Leopoldina Fortunati and Manuela Farinos

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Web 2.0 platforms have deeply changed fashion communication. Online forums and, later, blogs and social networks have become increasingly common and have achieved a pivotal role in driving new fashion trends. They represent a possibility for ordinary people to participate in the fashion scene; share their suggestions, opinions, and comments; and thus contribute to the construction of new fashion discoursivity. Whereas scholars have focused on fashion bloggers, there is little research on the anti

Fashion on Smartphones

Leopoldina Fortunati and Yao Nie

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

This article investigates fashion mobile applications that are mapped according to their features: content typology, number and average scores of ratings, as well as number of reviews posted by users and their content. Second, user behavior is compared between the United States and China, the two biggest smartphone markets in the world. Fashion mobile applications have an indirect relationship with the fashion system and millions of potential customers. In these applications, in fact, the relatio

Cosplay

Frenchy Lunning

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Cosplay, short for “costume play,” refers to a global practice of building costumes and performing as characters from manga (Japanese comic books), anime (Japanese animation), and other popular sources. Cosplay is also a Japanese subculture, whose performance venue is more public than fan conventions. The term came into usage as the influx of Japanese anime and manga became significant at science fiction and comic book conventions. However, anime- and manga-based cosplay differ from that of scien

Vintage Dress

Maria Mackinney-Valentin

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The term vintage generally refers to the revived use of certain secondhand clothes, shoes, and accessories primarily originating from the twentieth century. From being a subcultural phenomenon in the mid-1990s, vintage became a mainstream trend in Euro-American markets around the beginning of the twenty-first century. Vintage can be seen as a paradoxical fashion phenomenon in the sense that it assumes durable qualities similar to those of vintage cars and wine, while fashion is often defined by t

Popular Music and Dress in Australia

Sue Ryan

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Australian pop and rock music has been inseparable from fashion since the 1950s. Australia had a popular musical culture from the first days of European settlement, but in the 1950s rock ’n’ roll and pop began to dominate other musical forms. Taking shape as an industry, they were supported by and supported the arrival of television, the growing print media, and radio, which continued to be an essential social bond and cultural disseminator. Dress was increasingly the key that proved to audiences

The Beauty Blogosphere

Shari Sims

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Women have sought advice—from each other, from experts, from style setters, from servants to the stars—for as long as they have decorated their appearance using cosmetics. Non-Western women passed down traditions from one generation to another; in the twenty-first century, social media have literally upended traditions while helping to create new ones. There are hundreds of beauty blogs (some estimate at least four hundred) in addition to the active Web sites of women’s magazines and cosmetics co

Music and Dress

Else Skjold

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Music and dress have played a significant role in the civilization process in West Europe. Both being aesthetic fields meant to be performed and put into play by human gesture, they have proved to be efficient tools for cultivating the movements, postures, and gestures of the body. The material, cut, and shape of dress have manipulated the body to move in certain ways, as have rhythms and expressions in music. Significant for West Europe has been a duality between spirit and body, causing a divis

Hijab Online

Emma Tarlo

Source: Visibly Muslim. Fashion, Politics, Faith 4th Edition 2010

Book chapter

A brief glance at the homepage of thehijabshop.com gives a flavour of the nature of this commercial venture. The consumer is confronted by a range of different products and techniques of display. At the time of writing, this consisted of a new range of trendy modern jilbabs displayed on live models without heads, Cindy van den Bremen’s sports hijabs worn by professional models, the ‘pick of the day’ hijab displayed on a plastic mannequin of Caucasian complexion, a selection of fancy hijab pins, a

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