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Getting to Know Knits and Stretch Fabrics

Sharon Czachor

Source: Sewing with Knits and Stretch Fabrics, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Garments constructed from knitted fabric conform more easily to the shape of the body, reducing the fitting and construction details while retaining the shape. This allows the stretch of the fabric to replace the ease that is needed in designing woven fabric garments. The fitting for garments in stretch fabric is very different from woven fabrics and is addressed at the patternmaking stage. For further information, refer to Patternmaking with Stretch Knit Fabrics by Julie Cole (Fairchild Books, 2

Uses of Tools and Supplies

Zoya Nudelman

Source: The Art of Couture Sewing, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There are many different kinds of needles made for all kinds of sewing purposes. Needles vary in size, shape, and eye. The best choice for a specific job is a needle that is fine enough to slip easily through the fabric and strong enough not to break or bend. Needles will help you succeed in your sewing. Remember to change needles regularly. It is suggested that every new garment should have a needle change, especially silk garments. Needle sizes in the United States are numbered from 8 to 19. Th

The Jacket

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

If there is a dart on the jacket, at this point in your tailoring procedure it is indicated by four tailor tacks.

The Pants

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The pants can often be held in lower esteem in a suit when compared to the jacket. This may be due to the extensive amount of detail and attention placed in the jacket; however, a great suit cannot exist without pants that have been carefully constructed and shaped to fit the client.

Preparation

Jennifer Prendergast

Source: Sewing Techniques. An introduction to construction skills within the design process, 2014, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There are many different approaches to design interpretation and everyone develops their own individual technique. However, a very simple starting point is to make a copy of your drawing (this will be used as a template) and label each component (see example). Within each square, identify the different areas; for example, what type of neckline or armhole does it have? What type of seams do you want to use? Does it fasten at the back or the front and what type of fastening is it?

Basics about Textiles

Milva Fiorella Di Lorenzo

Source: Tailoring Techniques for Fashion, 2010, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

To master the techniques of tailoring, an understanding of the materials that tailors use to create garments is essential. This chapter provides a basic overview of fabrics that are suitable for tailoring—as well as some that only the more experienced tailor should work with.

General Sewing and Pressing Equipment

Milva Fiorella Di Lorenzo

Source: Tailoring Techniques for Fashion, 2010, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

After you have read this chapter, you should be able to discuss:

Women’s Invisible Labor in Dress Practices: Care

Leopoldina Fortunati

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Fashion consumption hides a great deal of invisible labor; changes in this labor have influenced and silently but effectively reoriented the fashion world. This invisible labor is the work done in everyday life to buy, clean, iron, and mend clothes. These supplementary but ongoing tasks keep clothes in good condition. To what extent is this labor still performed at a mass level? Who does it in the early twenty-first century? A survey carried out in Italy with a sample of four hundred respondents

Care and Maintenance

Ingun Grimstad Klepp

Translated by Stig Erik Sørheim

Kjetil Enstad

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Care and maintenance are important for both durability and appearance of clothes. Historically, clothing and textiles have been among the most precious possessions of a household, and extensive repairs and careful maintenance were worthwhile. Many people owned only one set of clothes; in poor families, the mother stayed up past bedtime because repairs had to be made when the clothes had been taken off for the night. Even for better-off women, mending and patching were everyday tasks. They have be

Care of Dress

Patricia Campbell Warner

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Until the twentieth century, the care of clothing generally meant arduous back-breaking work undertaken by females. Traditionally, outer clothing was protected from the body, even as the body was protected from the outer clothing, by linen shifts, shirts, petticoats, and sometimes drawers. For most people, these items were washed only when absolutely necessary. As for the rest of the clothes, until the age of cotton, which began in the late eighteenth century, most simply were never washed at all

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