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Photographing Street Style: Bill Cunningham and Beyond

Brent Luvaas

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Whether started by New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham, or extending much further back, street-style photography has become an increasingly influential medium within the global fashion industry, with hundreds of bloggers now documenting the real-time trends of “real people” throughout the globe. But as the breadth and influence of street style grew between the 1970s and the mid-2000s, its practitioners stuck steadfastly to a set of common photographic conventions, investing street style w

Reel to Real Life: Re-Fashioning India from Bollywood to Street

Arti Sandhu

Source: Indian Fashion. Tradition, Innovation, Style 2015

Book chapter

Cinema in India is an extremely influential cultural medium. India has the world’s largest film industry with over 1,000 films produced every year in more than 20 languagesIbid. and over 14 million Indians go to the movies on a daily basis.In 2008 the industry was valued at approximately US$2.2 billion, and expected to grow by 9 percent p.a. till 2015 (Deloitte 2011 report: “Media & Entertainment in India Digital Road Ahead.” www.deloitte.com/in [accessed June 4, 2013]) Many more watch them at ho

Agnès B

Laura Snelgrove

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Autobiography as A Proposed Approach to A Fashion Exhibition

Jeff Horsley

Source: Fashion and Museums. Theory and Practice 2014

Book chapter

Before embarking on the construction of my own fashion autobiography, I reviewed a number of recent exhibitions for evidence of fashion autobiographic content. The majority of these exhibitions I had visited personally and documented through photography and notes, supplementing this material through reference to accompanying publications and online resources. Other exhibitions are evaluated solely through review of their catalog. While not ideal, I concluded that such publications could arguably

How New Are New Media? The Case of Fashion Blogs

Djurdja Bartlett, Shaun Cole and Agnès Rocamora (eds)

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present 2013

Book chapter

The 1990s saw the birth of blogs—a contraction of the terms Web and log shortened into its present form by blogger Peter Merholz in 1999 (Rettberg 2008: 26)—with their number soaring from 50 in 1999 (Kaye 2007: 128) to over 181 million by the end of 2011 (Nielsenwire 2012). When in 2003 the genre—a regular, often daily, online posting of one’s musings on a variety of topics—was appropriated by a young American woman to document her style, the first blog devoted to fashion—nogoodforme—was created.

The Modest Fashion Blogosphere: Establishing Reputation, Maintaining Independence

Reina Lewis

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present 2013

Book chapter

In the modest fashion sector, the division between corporate and independent can be blurred when bloggers and brands alike may regard their activities as part of a spiritual mission. Like all early fashion bloggers, the first cohort of modest fashion bloggers was initially independent, with many coming online in the same years of the mid-2000s that saw the dramatic increase in blog writing and reading (especially among women) (Pew 2005). Modest blogging spanned the gamut of emergent blog genres,

Fashion Films, Blogs and E-Commerce: The Puzzle of Fashion Distinction in China

Simona Segre reinach

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present 2013

Book chapter

There once was a European who wanted a new suit. Since there were no European tailors in China, he called in a Chinese tailor and asked him if he was able to copy and sew a European suit. The tailor said he could make it up, if he provided him with a model. The European found an old, worn-out suit and gave it to him. After a few days the tailor brought the new suit. The European examined it and found it perfect. The only thing was that on the shoulders of the suit the tailor had made a hole, and

‘Fashion Is the Biggest Oxymoron in My Life’: Fashion Blogger, Designer and Cover Girl Zinah Nur Sharif in Conversation with Emma Tarlo

Emma Tarlo and Annelies Moors (eds)

Source: Islamic Fashion and Anti-Fashion. New Perspectives from Europe and North America 2013

Book chapter

Edited version of an interview conducted over email by Emma Tarlo in October 2012.

Caught on Camera: The Fashioned Body and The Criminal Body

Nilgin Yusuf

Source: Fashion Media. Past and Present 2013

Book chapter

Fashion. noun; a popular or the latest style of clothing, hair decoration or behaviour *the production and marketing of new styles of clothing and cosmetics *a manner of doing something.

The Changing Face(s) of the Fashion Magazine and the New Media Landscape

Pamela Church Gibson

Source: Fashion and Celebrity Culture 2012

Book chapter

Magazines directed at women alone first appeared in the eighteenth century: the purveying of information about the latest fashions was part of their remit, but they had other tasks to perform. The earliest magazines on both sides of the Atlantic were serious publications, often with an educational element (Ferguson 1983; Gough-Yates 2003). Nevertheless, they always contained line drawings and perhaps coloured plates of the latest fashions from Paris. The idea that the function of the magazine inc

Influence of the Web

Leopoldina Fortunati and Manuela Farinos

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Web 2.0 platforms have deeply changed fashion communication. Online forums and, later, blogs and social networks have become increasingly common and have achieved a pivotal role in driving new fashion trends. They represent a possibility for ordinary people to participate in the fashion scene; share their suggestions, opinions, and comments; and thus contribute to the construction of new fashion discoursivity. Whereas scholars have focused on fashion bloggers, there is little research on the anti

Fashion on Smartphones

Leopoldina Fortunati and Yao Nie

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

This article investigates fashion mobile applications that are mapped according to their features: content typology, number and average scores of ratings, as well as number of reviews posted by users and their content. Second, user behavior is compared between the United States and China, the two biggest smartphone markets in the world. Fashion mobile applications have an indirect relationship with the fashion system and millions of potential customers. In these applications, in fact, the relatio

The Beauty Blogosphere

Shari Sims

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Women have sought advice—from each other, from experts, from style setters, from servants to the stars—for as long as they have decorated their appearance using cosmetics. Non-Western women passed down traditions from one generation to another; in the twenty-first century, social media have literally upended traditions while helping to create new ones. There are hundreds of beauty blogs (some estimate at least four hundred) in addition to the active Web sites of women’s magazines and cosmetics co

Hijab Online

Emma Tarlo

Source: Visibly Muslim. Fashion, Politics, Faith 4th Edition 2010

Book chapter

A brief glance at the homepage of thehijabshop.com gives a flavour of the nature of this commercial venture. The consumer is confronted by a range of different products and techniques of display. At the time of writing, this consisted of a new range of trendy modern jilbabs displayed on live models without heads, Cindy van den Bremen’s sports hijabs worn by professional models, the ‘pick of the day’ hijab displayed on a plastic mannequin of Caucasian complexion, a selection of fancy hijab pins, a

Islamic Fashion Scape

Emma Tarlo

Source: Visibly Muslim. Fashion, Politics, Faith 4th Edition 2010

Book chapter

If there is one factor that the first generation of British Islamic fashion designers share in common it is an understanding of the clothing dilemmas of young Muslims living in the West who wish to dress in ways that are fashionable and modern on the one hand and faithful and modest on the other. It is a dilemma which most designers learned, not so much through savvy market research and economic foresight, as from their own highly personal experiences of being unable to find clothes which express

Virtual Worlds, Dress, and Fashion

Sarah Barbara Watstein and Kelly Czarnecki

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

A new category of Internet sites has appeared during the last decade—virtual worlds or immersive environments—with fashion playing an important role. In these environments, visitors, also called residents, have established thriving communities interacting on various levels as “avatars,” originally a Hindu word, here used to describe the embodiment of the user within the environment. Modifying one’s look as an avatar is popular among teens and adults. Second Life has the largest following of any v

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