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Anna Molinari

Giulia Bussinello

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Alberta Ferretti

Giulia Bussinello

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Oscar De la Renta

Amber Jane Butchart

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Ann Demeulemeester, Spring/Summer 1992

Elisa De Wyngaert

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The spring/summer collection of 1992 was Ann Demeulemeester’s first fashion show in Paris. She presented her looks alongside other young avant-garde Belgian designers, including Martin Margiela. The silhouettes of the collection featured some elements which would later become known as Demeulemeester’s signatures: feathers, a strong cut, and a kind of androgyny blended with poetic femininity. Yet these silhouettes also deviated from the monochromatic feel of her later work. Furthermore, Patti Smit

Christian Lacroix, Spring/Summer 1997

Lorynn Divita

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Lacroix will forever be known as the man who invented the high femininity look during the 1980s. His use of poufs, miniskirts, and corsets may not have been intended to start a debate, but that was the reaction, and his work even became the focus of a chapter of Susan Faludi's feminist tome Backlash. His spring/summer collection of 1997 showed his signature styles with French and ethnic influences. The rise of minimalism caused his look to fall out of favor, but his career continued as a creative

Underwear from the 1970s to 2000

Hayley-Jane Edwards-Dujardin

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

From the twentieth century, underwear has acquired a functional and an aesthetic purpose, sometimes serving as a second skin for comfort and at other times as an exoskeleton, reshaping the body’s natural form. It conceals or audaciously reveals women’s intimacy and thus nourishes erotic fantasies in a flirtatious game of “nice meets naughty.” Underwear originally had a function of protection, hygiene, and support; it embodied the existing social boundaries between the hidden intimacy and the publ

Marilyn Monroe

Joanne B. Eicher

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Marilyn Monroe, born Norma Jeane Mortenson, sometimes using Baker (1 June 1926–5 August 1962), began her career as a model. Signing a film contract in 1946, she played minor roles, receiving attention for her beauty, curvaceous body, and mode of dressing. With prominence, she became a sex symbol. She adeptly helped create her visual persona by learning makeup and strategic wardrobe techniques. She relied on costumers like William Travilla to help construct her image in films like Gentlemen Prefer

Véronique Branquinho

Alessandro Esculapio

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Bill Blass, Spring/Summer 1993

Michelle Honig

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

This collection was a bit of a departure from Bill Blass’s previous collections, with critic Cathy Horyn noting that some of the pieces “seemed to come from out of the blue.” It took place in the designer’s showroom. The clothes were similar to what other designers were doing at the time, being feminine, blousy, and sheer. There were elements of overt sexiness, with a bubblegum pink dress edged in black lace and an ensemble of a black-and-white striped cardigan with the top buttons left open pair

Bill Blass, Spring/Summer 1995

Michelle Honig

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Bill Blass’s 1995 spring/summer collection focused on color and short hemlines, clothes that he thought were “just pretty.” The dominant color was pink—a marker of femininity. That season, fashion looked to the golden age of Hollywood, the 1930s, for inspiration and Blass was no exception. However, while other designers created clothes with tight, long satin pencil skirts that hobbled movement, he ignored that trend and instead made fun and flattering clothes with a twist. His evening clothes wer

Lolita Lempicka

Morna Laing

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Florals

Tessa Maffucci

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Floral designs are ubiquitous in fashion. They appear reliably with each new season, spring or fall, as designers attempt to find new ways to iterate this now traditional motif. The history of floral textiles is complex. Flower designs have been intimately tied up with colonialism and the convergence of cultures of dress; however, the patterns themselves are often seen in simplistic terms as signifying femininity or pastoral innocence. Florals can translate the beauty of the natural world onto th

Sarah Burton

Shonagh Marshall

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Jazz Style on the Catwalk, 1970s–2000s

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

From 1970 to 2000, the influence of jazz culture on the women’s catwalk is pinpointed by the confluence of masculine and feminine details. Designers, during the three decades, interpreted the tuxedo and double-breasted suit that were standardized uniforms of early jazz musicians. Particularly for African American performers, these formal garments bolstered access to mainstream culture, social and economic equality, celebrity, and musical distinction. These utilities are paramount to its exhibitio

Ribbons and Lace: Girls, Decorative Femininity and Androgyny

Masafumi Monden

Source: Japanese Fashion Cultures. Dress and gender in contemporary Japan 2015

Book chapter

‘There’s one thing about you,’ Maudie said. ‘You always look ladylike.’JeanRhys, Voyage in the Dark (London: Penguin Books, 2000 [1934]), p. 10. ‘Oh God,’ I said, ‘who wants to look ladylike?’

Glacé Wonderland: Cuteness, Sexuality and Young Women

Masafumi Monden

Source: Japanese Fashion Cultures. Dress and gender in contemporary Japan 2015

Book chapter

kawaii (cute) aestheticswomen andporn-chicKawase, Tomoko (Tommy)‘Bloomin’!’kawaii (cute) aestheticsinfantile kindKawaii is like love of humanity, you need a certain mental capacity, strength and experiences to appreciate the fragile.Hitomi, quoted and explained by Kenji of Milkboy during a Skype interview, 29 November 2013. I thank Kenji for sharing this important story.

Carolina Herrera

Emily M. Orr

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Modeling History: How Models Have Changed Between the 1970s and 2000

Julia Rea

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The role and significance of the fashion model has been subject to a series of profound changes since the professionalization of the occupation in the late nineteenth century. These variations have been catalyzed by a wide range of social, cultural, and creative influences, from shifting trends in photography and fashion and changing ideals of beauty and femininity to the advent of technology, the Internet, and social media. When Vogue launched in the United States in 1892, the magazine’s fashion

Valentino, Spring/Summer 1987

Rosily Roberts

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Valentino’s 1987 spring/summer collection is both feminine and elegant. He uses a number of different luxurious materials and precise tailoring to create clothes with a sense of timelessness. Looking at the critical reception of this collection in publications such as Vogue, this essay will examine the relevance of the collection as well as the extent to which it departed from his previous style.

Fendi, Fall/Winter 1985

Alexis Romano

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

By the time of Fendi’s fall/winter 1985 collection, the brand was an important feature of the globally renowned, flourishing 1980s Italian fashion landscape, yet it also retained its original status as one of the traditional accessories brands that had helped shape Italy’s classification as a historic center of artisanal, high-quality craftsmanship. Directed by Karl Lagerfeld, who had been at the helm since 1965, and in keeping with Fendi’s heritage and identity, the thread throughout the collect

Ungaro, Spring/Summer 1990

Vanessa Semmens

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Spring/summer 1990 brought a collection that was typical of Emanuel Ungaro. He was well known for his formfitting dresses and feminine themes, and the collection had a striking mixture of glamorous evening wear and pretty daywear, all accessorized. The House of Ungaro was significant on the fashion circuit, and respected for the high quality of craftsmanship inherent in its garments. In 1993 The Independent put Ungaro in the same sentence as Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent when talking about the “b

Laura Biagiotti

Laura Snelgrove

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Mugler

Laura Snelgrove

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Anna Sui, Spring/Summer 1993

Nadya Wang

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Anna Sui’s spring/summer 1993 collection reflects her ease in cherry-picking ideas from disparate sources of inspiration to create collections that are recognizably hers. Chiefly inspired by Biba, Barbara Hulanicki’s London boutique, the collection was also in touch with the grunge aesthetic of the season, with a riot of bright colors in stripes, fabric flowers on skullcaps, and knit tops juxtaposed with militaristic khaki skirts and pants. Added to the mix were lace dresses and crocheted cardiga

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