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Real-life superheroes

Barbara Brownie and Danny Graydon

Source: The Superhero Costume. Identity and disguise in fact and fiction, 2016, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The appropriation of the superhero costume often comes in conjunction with the performance of a superhero lifestyle. Masked vigilantes patrol the streets of cities including Seattle, Atlanta, New York, Toronto, MexicoMexico City, and London, and congregate in cyberspace via the World Superhero RegistryWorld Superhero Registry. Though they are too numerous to list here, those real-life superheroes that have been the subject of academic study include Phoenix Jones, PhoenixJones, who patrols the str

Six: Rebel Yell: Dame Vivienne Westwood

Joseph H. Hancock

Source: Brand Story. Cases and Explorations in Fashion Branding, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Vivienne Isabel Swire was born on April 8, 1941, in Glossop, Derbyshire, to Dora and Gordon Swire. She has a younger sister, Olga Swire, and a younger brother, Gordon Swire. Vivienne learned to sew at a young age and always made her own clothes so that she could save her money to buy expensive and nice shoes. After attending Harrow Art School for one term, she married Derek Westwood at twenty-one and turned her hand to primary teaching. In 1963, Vivienne’s first child, Benjamin Arthur Westwood,wa

Fashion Shows and Special Events

Kristen K. Swanson and Judith C. Everett

Source: Promotion In The Merchandising Environment, 3rd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

“This collection is dedicated to the women who inspire me and to the showgirl in all of us.”

Jane Birkin

Osman Ahmed

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Jane Birkin (born 14 December 1946) is an English singer-songwriter, actress, and political activist. Coming of age in west London in the early 1960s, she made her first appearances in films such as Michelangelo Antonioni’s Blow-Up (1966), in which she was the first English actress to appear fully naked in a mainstream film, playing the leggy model known simply as “the blonde.”In 1968, she left Swinging London for Paris and despite not being fluent in French, she won the lead role in Francis Giro

Dsquared2

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Walter Van Beirendonck

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Hip-Hop

Shayla Corinne Black

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Hip-hop is a multifaceted genre of twentieth-century music, whose influence has expanded from the streets to the runway. It is a global phenomenon embraced by millions. Hip-hop began in the Bronx, New York and was forged by black youth as a form of artistic expression. Groups like Run-D.M.C. were iconic with their trademarks: Adidas sneakers, tracksuits, bucket hats, and gold rope chains. The fashion world avidly participated by appropriating the bright colors, athletic wear, loose-fitting garmen

Sid Vicious and the Sex Pistols

José Blanco F.

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The British band Sex Pistols are the quintessential London punk band: they defined British punk better than any other artist did. Although punk rock was heralded as antiestablishment and promoting anarchy, Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood carefully orchestrated the appearance and styling of the Sex Pistols. Sid Vicious joined the band in 1977 to replace Glen Matlock. As guitarist and vocalist, Vicious became a de facto leading man for the band. Along with bandmate Johnny Rotten (John Lydon),

David Bowie

José Blanco F.

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

David Bowie is the musician most closely associated with glam rock, a genre of music that enjoyed great popularity in the 1970s, particularly in the United Kingdom. Glam rock was more than just music: it was about epic, elaborate concert productions, exuberant costumes and makeup, and playful exploration of gender identity. Bowie was born Robert David Jones on 8 January 1947 in Brixton, London. In the late 1960s, Bowie began a career as a psychedelic folk rock singer with several singles and the

Kurt Cobain

José Blanco F.

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Kurt Cobain, the lead singer of Nirvana, was born on 20 February 1967 in Aberdeen in the state of Washington. He became the salient figure in grunge music, a style that developed in the Pacific Northwest of the United States in the middle of the 1980s and achieved global popularity in the early 1990s. Grunge is a style of alternative rock based on accented percussion, heavy electric guitar riffs, electronic distortion, and loud—often howling—vocals. Nirvana, formed in 1988, became one of the most

Adam Ant

José Blanco F.

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

In the early 1980s, pop musicians embraced historicism in their performance attire. Adam and the Ants, a new wave band based in London, donned clothing inspired by historic military outfits, nineteenth-century dandies, and pirates. They were among the recognized leaders of the New Romantics movement, a London youth subculture known for its taste for eccentric fashion. The band was formed in 1977 and achieved fame with a streak of successful albums, particularly Kings of the Wild Frontier (1980) a

Popular Culture And Forecasting

Evelyn L. Brannon and Lorynn Divita

Source: Fashion Forecasting, 4th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

It used to be that we had six months to show something and then manufacture it. Now it only takes a week to copy something from an image on the Internet. So creatively, you have to be more and more unique.

Elvis Presley

Fiona Corbridge

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Elvis Presley’s ascent from impoverished childhood to worldwide fame as a singer and actor in the 1950s allowed him to indulge a love of clothes that began as a teenager. A career of over twenty years established a sharp-dressing persona, graduating into extravagant stage attire in the 1970s. The shock of his early death only served to increase the public’s fascination with him and to immortalize him as a cultural icon. Elvis’s handsome image continues to reassert itself in the early twenty-first

Pam Hogg

Elizabeth Glendinning

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Mitsuhiro Matsuda

Elizabeth Glendinning

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Style Narratives: Sixties in the Twenty-First Century

Heike Jenss

Source: Fashioning Memory. Vintage Style and Youth Culture, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Music has been described by many of the sixties enthusiasts I interviewed to be at the core of, if not initiating, their interest in the sixties, indicating the significant role music plays in the development of style. Music affects our bodybody, moving inside from the outside. Baacke, DieterDieter Baacke describes it as a phenomenon that “storms our senses”—one that penetrates and moves the body, it drives our corporealitycorporeality and expression, it gets us to dance, to tap with our feet, or

Courtney Love

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

As the look of grunge materialized into a bona fide subcultural style in the early 1990s, perhaps no other individual became more central to its proliferation than Hole lead singer Courtney Love. With an abrasive sound and vivid, uninhibited lyrics, Hole was critically acclaimed from its very inception, with Love receiving particular attention for her unabashed stage performance and unusual, little-girl-gone-awry fashion style. Dubbed the “queen of grunge,” Love’s style became a subject of fascin

Debbie Harry

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The veritable godmother of new wave music, Debbie Harry’s impact on the world of fashion is perhaps tantamount to her musical legacy. The lead singer of pioneering band Blondie, Harry brought a unique sense of glamour and sophistication to New York’s punk scene that emerged within the city’s seedy Bowery neighborhood in the 1970s. A female performer immersed in the primarily male environment of the legendary rock venue CBGB, Harry’s trailblazing musical persona was a paradoxical combination of el

Kim Gordon

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

As the sole female member of the pioneering New York alternative rock band, Sonic Youth, Kim Gordon’s personal style emerged out of her desire to perform on the same physical level as her male band mates, while simultaneously conveying her unique female perspective. Upon forming Sonic Youth in 1981 with musician and future husband Thurston Moore, Gordon’s style transformed into a preppy-girl-meets-tomboy fashion aesthetic. Countless designers, ranging from Marc Jacobs to Kate and Laura Mulleavy o

Janis Joplin

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

As the 1960s became defined by social upheaval, free thinking, and unbridled creative output, perhaps no other female figure embodied the zeitgeist more than singer Janis Joplin. She channeled a profound feeling of alienation into an inimitable performance style, and as her singing career flourished, her fashion style developed into the veritable quintessence of the countercultural look. An amalgam of a diverse range of sources, Joplin’s style was at once boyish yet delicate, earthy yet ethereal,

Anna Sui

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Dress Theory, Fashion and A Jazz Aesthetic

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion and Jazz. Dress, identity and subcultural improvisation, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

influence(s)between jazz/fashionmusiciansuse of clothingfashion designersincorporating meaningclothingas act of meaningFashion and jazz are disciplines that have significantly influenced one another in the first half of the twentieth century. Aesthetics, aestheticsdefineddefined as “the identification of the beautiful” (Weiner 2012: 8), were generated, shared and communicated through a merger of visual, behavioral and acoustic qualities among performers. In Cultural PassionsCultural Passions, Eli

A Narrative of Jazz Modernity

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion and Jazz. Dress, identity and subcultural improvisation, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

postmodern identity, in jazzidentity(ies)postmodern in jazz“Satchmo at the Waldorf”“Lady Day at Emerson’s Bar & Grill”“Jazz Urbane”Holiday, Billie“Lady Day at Emerson’s Bar & Grill”classic jazzIn popular culture, jazz is situated in an environment beyond the 1960s stage of fusion, divergence and division, where it is now elevated, revered and presented as a nostalgic art form that conveys an ingenious past. Music scholars of the twenty-first century have applied numerous definitions to this perio

Assessing Elitism and Branding in Jazz

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion and Jazz. Dress, identity and subcultural improvisation, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

societal opposition, to jazzNew Orleansand jazzEarly on, jazz experienced modes of disdain, streaming from religious institutions, black societies and majority tradition. This conflict commenced with the intersection of gospel and secular musicsecular music. The latter was associated with music performed in saloons, nightclubs and theaters. Around the early 1900s, Du Bois, W. E. B.Du Bois explained the magnitude of segregationand the churchthe church in black communities, and the churchchurchand

Aesthetics of The Jazz Dandy

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion and Jazz. Dress, identity and subcultural improvisation, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Adding to his narrative, Michel Fontanes, a former executive, author and jazz musician, articulated the French impression of African American male instrumentalists that expatriated to the country. “They were considered in France as Gods. All black musicians not the white musicians.” Regarding his trip to Paris in 1949, Miles Davis offered consensus. “It was the freedom of being in France and being treated like a human being, like someone important. Even the band and the music we played sounded be

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