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Intellectual property: Protection, enforcement and hidden issues

Deanna Clark-Esposito

Source: A Practical Guide to Fashion Law and Compliance, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

While the lengths to which IP protection should extend over the fashion industry may be left to the courts to answer, it can be said that there are several facets of the industry as a whole that are in need of protection. They range from a product design or functionality standpoint, to issues involving the manufacture of counterfeit goods, which have been linked to child and slave labor, as well as that such sales have been connected to the funding of terrorist activities.

The Design Process

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

one-off design brief, alternative approach todocumentation included in design briefdesign briefdocumentation included inbalancedefinedbriefdesign concepts ofdirective forThe design design concepts ofprocess forprocess typically begins with a document known as a design processdesign directivedesign directive, which is also called a brief or deckdeck. The directive provides a comprehensive review of the proposed initiative. It can originate internally within the company or externally with a contrac

Materials and Graphics Used in Visual Merchandising and Store Design

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The more a designer knows about the woodcharacteristics ofcharacteristics of wood and its source, the better he or she can understand the degree of warmth and beauty it can bring to the fix-turing or store design. Every grain pattern is a unique masterpiece of design, texture, and wonder. These grain patterns also known as “figures or growth rings,” describe the texture found in wood such as BirdseyeBirdseye, curly, or fiddlebackfiddleback. Wood can be warm and welcoming or cool and contemporary,

Store Planning and Design

Martin M. Pegler and Anne Kong

Source: Visual Merchandising and Display, 7th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

As retail continues to evolve so will the roles of visual merchandisers and store planners. Yesterday’s store planner is today’s “experience-maker.” The store planner is more than a space planner, decorator, and divider of the selling floor space; he or she is responsible for understanding inventory, allocation, expense control, interactive technology, strategies to increase basket size, and consumer demographics, all while communicating the corporate identity and brand values. A store planner is

Europe and Russia

Brenda Sternquist and Elizabeth B. Goldsmith

Source: International Retailing, 3rd Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

After studying this chapter, you should be able to:

Zoomorphic Brooches in Roman Britain: Decoration or Religious Ideology?

Lindsay Allason-Jones

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Fashion and Feminism

Henriette Dahan-Kalev and Shoshana-Rose Marzel

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

civil rightsgenderDuring the French Revolution, dress became an important issue: one of the ways in which revolutionaries’ values were to be obtained and symbolized was through the adoption of class-less styles of clothing, which expressed the ideals of Fraternity, Liberty, and Equality.

Tailoring Traditions

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

If people turn to look at you on the street, you are not well dressed.

Fashion Politics and Practice: Indian Cottons and Consumer Innovation in Tokugawa Japan and Early Modern England, C. 1600–1800

Beverly Lemire

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

textilescottonJapansixteenth–seventeenth centuriesEnglandsixteenth–seventeenth centuriesConsumerism, consumptionThe historical characteristics of consumer behavior have been the subject of intensive study for a generation.Among the pioneer studies see: Jan De Vries “Peasant Demand and Economic Development: Friesland 1559–1700,” in William Parker and E. L. Jones eds, European Peasants and their Markets, Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1975; Economic Policy and Projects: The Development of a

Ideology, Fashion and the Darlys’ “Macaroni” Prints

Peter Mcneil

Source: Dress and Ideology. Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Painted caricatures began on the “Grand TourGrand Tour” as private jokes shared between young men and their tutors. Private Italian painters working in Florence inspired the English development of this field. Etchings were made by Pier Leone Ghezzi (1674–1755) and Pietro Longhi (1702–85), and painted in Rome by English artists including Sir Joshua Reynolds and Thomas Patch (1725–82). Horace Walpole wrote in his journal thus: “Patch was excellent in Caricatura, and was in much favour with the youn

Ups and Downs of Paris Fashion

Valerie Steele

Source: Paris Fashion. A Cultural History, 3rd Edition, 2017, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Nous sortions d’une époque de guerre, d’uniformes, de femmessoldats aux carrures de boxeurs. Je dessinai des femmes-fleurs, épaules douces, bustes épanouis, tailles fines comme lianes et jupes larges comme corolles.ChristianDior, Christian Dior et moi (Paris: Amiot-Domont, 1956), p. 35. Translation in text by Valerie Steele.

Talitha Getty

Osman Ahmed

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Talitha Dina Pol (1940–1971) was born in Bali. After moving to London in 1945, following a traumatic period spent with her birth mother in a Japanese POW camp, Talitha studied at Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts with hopes of becoming an actress. Young, beautiful, and exotic, she was courted and celebrated by London society, becoming the second wife of John Paul Getty Jnr., the son of oil tycoon Paul Getty, in 1966. She wore an all-white, mink-trimmed, hooded minidress that echoed the height of Swi

Sid Vicious and the Sex Pistols

José Blanco F.

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

The British band Sex Pistols are the quintessential London punk band: they defined British punk better than any other artist did. Although punk rock was heralded as antiestablishment and promoting anarchy, Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood carefully orchestrated the appearance and styling of the Sex Pistols. Sid Vicious joined the band in 1977 to replace Glen Matlock. As guitarist and vocalist, Vicious became a de facto leading man for the band. Along with bandmate Johnny Rotten (John Lydon),

David Bowie

José Blanco F.

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

David Bowie is the musician most closely associated with glam rock, a genre of music that enjoyed great popularity in the 1970s, particularly in the United Kingdom. Glam rock was more than just music: it was about epic, elaborate concert productions, exuberant costumes and makeup, and playful exploration of gender identity. Bowie was born Robert David Jones on 8 January 1947 in Brixton, London. In the late 1960s, Bowie began a career as a psychedelic folk rock singer with several singles and the

Tilda Swinton

Barbara Brownie

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Scottish actor, model, and muse Tilda Swinton was born in London in 1960. After graduating from Cambridge she began a career acting on stage, and later in film, winning an Academy Award for her performance in Michael Clayton. She has played muse to fashion designers and artists alike, collaborating on a collection for Viktor & Rolf (2003) and starring in a short film by fashion designer Hussein Chalayan (Absent Present, 2005). In recent years she has been the face of campaigns for designers inclu

Mulberry

Amber Jane Butchart

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Tailoring

Roberto Cabrera and Denis Antoine

Source: Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear. A Construction Guide, 2nd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Through the years, a few regional styles of tailoring have evolved, influenced by differences in use, fashionable appearance as well as climate. Each school has developed a unique heritage in its approach to the tailoring process. The following, presenting a brief synopsis of the various geographical schools of tailoring, should serve as a reminder of the fact that the techniques presented in this book remain very much only guidelines, open for experimentation by the practiced tailor.

Jasper Conran

Katy Conover

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

The Queen

Fiona Corbridge

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

In 2015, Queen Elizabeth II became Britain’s longest-reigning monarch, having occupied the throne since 1952—over sixty-three years. The royal wardrobe has been of interest to the world since her childhood, and as a young woman, the clothes she wore for royal tours abroad and official visits were very influential. The designs produced for her by British couturiers were copied for the mass market. In the early twenty-first century, the Queen’s immaculate appearance transcends the vagaries of fashi

Kate Moss

Karen de Perthuis

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

Kate Moss is one of the world’s most photographed women, a blank slate for contemporary dreams and desires. With a career spanning three decades, she is a rare enduring phenomenon in an industry defined by ephemerality and a brutal quest for novelty. In the summer of 1988, she was fourteen when spotted by model agent Sarah Doukas at JFK airport—a bored teenager from the London suburb of Croydon with almond eyes, cupid-bow lips, and “God-given bone structure.” She would soon become a fashion model

The Global Impact of Fashion Retailing

Jay Diamond, Ellen Diamond and Sheri Litt

Source: Fashion Retailing. A multi-channel approach, 3rd Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

At the time of this writing, and in the future, fashion retailers will have more and more options to pursue in their global planning. Practically not a day goes by when one technique or another is showing promise in globalization. Although global reach is not an entirely new concept, its present interest is far beyond what has already taken place. Some of the trends provide significant potential growth for the retail operation. They include the following:

Vivienne Westwood’s Elevated Ghillie Shoes from 1993

Hayley-Jane Edwards-Dujardin

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

For her fall/winter 1993–1994 “Anglomania” collection, Vivienne Westwood perched her models on extremely elevated platform shoes. Inspired, as most of her collection, by Scottish traditional garments, the platform shoes reinterpreted ancestral ghillies worn for folkloric dances. However, apart from the lacing structure, the shoes were more reminiscent of fetish footwear—an aesthetic typical of Vivienne Westwood’s taste for combining conservatism with subversiveness. When the British designer rein

Vivienne Westwood, “Anglomania,” Fall/Winter 1993–1994

Hayley-Jane Edwards-Dujardin

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Article

From being queen of punk in the mid-1970s, Vivienne Westwood slightly moved, from the 1980s, to being a supporter of British fashion’s establishment. Inspired by traditional craftsmanship and eighteenth-century art, the designer has since infused her collections with historicism. With her fall/winter 1993–1994 “Anglomania” show, Vivienne Westwood epitomized her interest in English and Scottish traditions while mingling masculine tailoring with outrageously feminine forms. Featuring laced bodices,

Dai Rees

Alessandro Esculapio

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

Michiko Koshino

Alessandro Esculapio

Source: Fashion Photography Archive, 2015, Fashion Photography Archive

Designer Biography

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