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Michael Kors

Paula Alaszkiewicz

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Hip-Hop

Shayla Corinne Black

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Hip-hop is a multifaceted genre of twentieth-century music, whose influence has expanded from the streets to the runway. It is a global phenomenon embraced by millions. Hip-hop began in the Bronx, New York and was forged by black youth as a form of artistic expression. Groups like Run-D.M.C. were iconic with their trademarks: Adidas sneakers, tracksuits, bucket hats, and gold rope chains. The fashion world avidly participated by appropriating the bright colors, athletic wear, loose-fitting garmen

Edie Sedgwick

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

In the canon of fashion tastemakers, Edie Sedgwick remains both a legend and a mystery. In her short twenty-eight years, the Santa Barbara, California native was a socialite, heiress, artist, actress, model, New York scenester, and 1965’s anointed “Girl of the Year.” From her affiliation with Andy Warhol and the artistic community of the Factory to her collaboration with designer Betsey Johnson, to her stints as a model for Vogue, Sedgwick’s contribution to the world of fashion was undoubtedly a

Debbie Harry

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The veritable godmother of new wave music, Debbie Harry’s impact on the world of fashion is perhaps tantamount to her musical legacy. The lead singer of pioneering band Blondie, Harry brought a unique sense of glamour and sophistication to New York’s punk scene that emerged within the city’s seedy Bowery neighborhood in the 1970s. A female performer immersed in the primarily male environment of the legendary rock venue CBGB, Harry’s trailblazing musical persona was a paradoxical combination of el

Kim Gordon

Stephanie Kramer

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

As the sole female member of the pioneering New York alternative rock band, Sonic Youth, Kim Gordon’s personal style emerged out of her desire to perform on the same physical level as her male band mates, while simultaneously conveying her unique female perspective. Upon forming Sonic Youth in 1981 with musician and future husband Thurston Moore, Gordon’s style transformed into a preppy-girl-meets-tomboy fashion aesthetic. Countless designers, ranging from Marc Jacobs to Kate and Laura Mulleavy o

Donna Karan

Sandra J. Ley

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Betsey Johnson, Spring/Summer 1986

Veronica Maldonado

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Presented at the Palladium nightclub in New York City, Betsey Johnson’s spring/summer 1986 collection depended on many of her signature tropes—her usual use of romantic stylings such as petticoats, crinolines, bustiers, and lace combine with kitschy accessories like kitchen utensils, baggie boxes as hats, baby bottle earrings, and feather dusters, creating a look that teases ideas of the feminine—the romantic femininity of the materials and silhouettes mixes with the traditionally female role of

Carolina Herrera

Emily M. Orr

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Dancewear on the Catwalk, 1970s–2000s

Katerina Pantelides

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

This article describes the influence of dance practice and performance clothing on fashion ca.1970–2005. It begins with an exploration of historic correspondences between fashion and dance, and then considers how the so-called “dance boom” in 1970s New York, which flooded both the City and fashion editorial pages with professional and amateur dancers, inspired fashion designers, photographers, and stylists to blur the boundaries between dance practice wear and quotidian dress. The article also de

Vivienne Tam, Spring/Summer 1999

Nadya Wang

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Vivienne Tam (born 1957) is a New-York based designer who was born in China and grew up in Hong Kong. Her work has been a continuous experimentation in mixing and matching visual languages from the East and the West. Tam’s presentation for the spring/summer 1999 runway shows off her signature bilingualism, with images including Guanyin, the goddess of mercy, and the lotus flower combined with a relaxed, sporty style seen through the repeated use of windbreaker jackets in various prints and colors

Branding, Fashion and Music

Janice Miller

Source: Fashion and Music 2011

Book chapter

A kind of special status for creative people is part of a set of characteristics constructed in the nineteenth century by the writers, poets, composers and painters that Raymond Williams (1971) labels the ‘Romantic Artists’. Williams argues that a certain mystique and an almost stereotypical artistic personality were created by and around sets of individuals as a method of resistance to encroaching industrialization.

Vogue

Laird Borrelli

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Fashion Cities

Christopher Breward

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The history of Western fashion is closely related to the history of urban life. As cultural geographer David Gilbert has claimed, this complex relationship underpins contemporary understandings of global fashion as a system orchestrated around a shifting network of world cities, particularly Paris, New York, London, Milan, and Tokyo but also incorporating (at various times) Moscow, Vienna, Berlin, São Paulo, Kuwait City, Cape Town, Barcelona, Antwerp, Delhi, Melbourne, Sydney, Shanghai, Hong Kong

Regional Differences in Dress and Fashion

Nancy O. Bryant

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Fashion professionals believe that there are regional differences in dress and fashion trends in the United States and Canada. However, objective data are hard to find, as scholars have paid little attention to regional differences within these territories. National retail firms are likely to evaluate sales in different regions in order to provide a range of stock that will appeal to their customers. Trade publications report the sales volume of items in various regions. Fashion reporters use the

Writing about Fashions

Sandra Stansbery Buckland

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The twentieth century brought many innovations in the fashion world, and those innovations prompted many people to report on new fashions, to analyze them, and even to criticize them. Fashion was, and is, news. Fashion is both an artistic expression and a vital industry that makes significant contributions to a nation’s economy. And fashion is a sartorial mirror that reflects a culture’s values, beliefs, politics, and technologies. Fashion, then, can also be controversial. With so many facets to

Department Store

Bronwen Edwards

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

An important innovation of department stores was their wide variety of merchandise, breaching the boundaries of previously largely trade-specific shop-keeping. Many of the early department stores actually developed from smaller existing shops, most commonly drapers. They grew department by department, taking over neighboring properties to house the expanding businesses, until it was necessary to provide a new building or reface the existing ones to provide coherence. Department store pioneer Will

Avedon, Richard

William Ewing

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Klein, Calvin

Gretchen Fenston and Beth Dincuff Charleston

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Klein’s designs, even in the excessive 1980s, continued to evoke a minimalist aesthetic, with a relatively restrained use of embellishment and color. The core of the collection was, as always, made up of timeless pieces in good fabrics. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CDFA) recognized Klein when he won designer of the year awards in 1982 and 1983 for his women’s collection. Klein won a CFDA award in 1986 for both his men’s and women’s collections, the first time a designer had won bo

Lauren, Ralph

Michael Gross

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Even as a boy Lauren loved to dress well and was always a sartorial step ahead of his peers. He liked to try on his dapper father’s jaunty hats, and he wore his older brothers’ hand-me-downs with a notable sense of style. Even if his clothes were not expensive, he distinguished them with an unusual drape or combination. He knew how to tie a Shetland sweater around his shoulders just so and rolled the cuffs of his jeans in a particular and unique way. When he fantasized about being a teacher, he i

Figure Skating Dress and Costume

Moira F. Harris

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The earliest dress for an ice-skater was basic winter-weather gear. Coats or jackets, pants or skirts, mittens or gloves, and hats or scarves protected skaters from the cold and damp. Early paintings and prints give evidence of these choices. In the nineteenth century concerns for health and fitness led to an interest in outdoor recreation. In many cities clubs were formed, and outdoor rinks were planned and built in parks. Clothing intended for skaters’ use was increasingly available. Competitio

Sonja Henie

Moira F. Harris

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

See alsoFigure Skating Dress and Costume.

Seventh Avenue

Margot Siegel

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The Beauty Blogosphere

Shari Sims

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Women have sought advice—from each other, from experts, from style setters, from servants to the stars—for as long as they have decorated their appearance using cosmetics. Non-Western women passed down traditions from one generation to another; in the twenty-first century, social media have literally upended traditions while helping to create new ones. There are hundreds of beauty blogs (some estimate at least four hundred) in addition to the active Web sites of women’s magazines and cosmetics co

Valentina*

Kohle Yohannan

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Born in 1904 in the Kiev region of Russia, Valentina escaped the revolution in the late teens with her new husband and soon-to-be business manager, George Schlée, arriving in America in 1923 after several years spent in Paris, Athens, and various other European cities. Much like the French designer Coco Chanel, who offered as many versions of her colorful past as her admirers cared to indulge, Valentina was prone to invent and embroider her early life as it suited her. As a result, Valentina’s or

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