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Merchandise Planning

David Shaw and Dimitri Koumbis

Source: Fashion Buying. From Trend Forecasting to Shop Floor, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Merchandise planners have to gauge daily, weekly, and seasonal demand for what is probably one of the most difficult consumer products to predict. This difficulty arises from a number of factors, of which the need to successfully monitor and control stock is perhaps the most significant. If a fashion business has too little stock, it will potentially lose sales to competitors; on the other hand, if it has too much stock, it will have invested buying money that is effectively “dead.”

Design

Michael P. Londrigan

Source: Menswear. Business to Style, 2009, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Consider all the different menswear products that are sold today, from socks for less than $1 a pair to custom-made suits that retail for $5,000.

Manufacturing

Michael P. Londrigan

Source: Menswear. Business to Style, 2009, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The process outlined on the preceding pages is by no means the definitive way of doing business; in fact, every company has its own way of designing, marketing, and producing goods. In the menswear trade, there are many variations among companies; some consist of two or three people while others employ thousands of people and produce diverse products that are sold all over the world.

Marker-Making

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The marker-making screen consists of four elements (see Figure 20.1):

Starting Gerber AccuMark

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Review the lesson so that you will have an understanding of the following:

Pockets and Tabs

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The jacket pocket has rounded corners at the bottom. In order to get the curve on the corners the same on both sides, you start by making half of a pattern, then mirroring it. You draw the pocket horizontally because that is the direction in which it will be finalized for production, and the grainline will be correct for the marker.

Handkerchief Skirt

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The handkerchief skirt consists of three pattern pieces: two square skirt layers and a waistband. The waistline skirt measurements are for misses size 8. The bottom skirt layer is a 39-inch square; the top skirt layer is a 34-inch square. The waistband is a rectangle, 27.5 inches by 1.25 inches finished. The first skirt layer is developed in three steps:

Jean Skirt

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

First, create the front left and right waistbands. Then construct the fly extension on the front skirt.

Pleat Skirt

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

View the sketches to see how various other pleats can be used in creating style features.

Bustier

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Retrieve TORSO-FRT and TORSO-BK. Figure 6.2 The bustier is a body-hugging garment with no ease. To prepare the torso slopers, you first need to remove the ease from the width of the torso slopers.

Camisole

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The measurements of the front and back waistlines are needed to make the peplum. To get the measurements, click Measure > Perimeter 2 Pt/Measure Along Piece. Measure the waistlines without the dart spacing and on the dotted seam line (see Figure 7.14).

Revere Jacket

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Review the lesson so that you have an understanding of the following:

Man-Tailored Shirt

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Place the front and back patterns on the screen and display the neckline measurements.

Essential

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There are numerous corners and notches to learn. The most frequently used are included here.

Eight-Gore Skirt

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The four-gore petticoat hangs 1.5 inches longer than the skirt.

Ruffle Dress

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Alterations II

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

See original and revision sketches in Figure 15.4. The pattern modification requested is to make a tailored sailor skirt using the fit and seam proportions of the eight-gore skirt, 8GSKT, from Lesson 13. This requires removing the flare and ruffled petticoat and adding a high midriff waistband with button trim and inserting an on-seam pocket.

Creating a Grade Rule Table

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Before you start, you need to review the X-Y chart (Table 16.2). Most important is the intersection point where the X axis intersects with the Y axis. This is called the zero point. Every pattern has a zero point from which you establish grading directions. The zero point is written in the grade rule table as Grade Rule 1, and it is all zeros because there is no grading. See Table 16.3 for Grade Rule 1.

Applying Grade Rules

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Review the lesson so that you have an understanding of the following:

Digitizing

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The hardware configuration has to be set correctly before digitizing begins.

Model, Order, Order Processing

Laura Nugent

Source: Computerized Patternmaking for Apparel Production, 2008, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The large green arrow in the function toolbar is the Process Order icon. All the information from the graded patterns, model, and order forms are processed into the marker-making application by just clicking on this large green arrow. After clicking, you will get either a success message or a failure message. If it is a success, that means the order was processed to the marker-making application and it will be there when you begin the marker. If you get a failure message, it means that you must g

Getting Started in AccuMark

Julia Ridgway Sharp and Virginia Hencken Elsasser

Source: Introduction to AccuMark, Pattern Design, and Product Data Management, 2007, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

After studying this chapter, you will be able to

Introduction to Grading

Julia Ridgway Sharp and Virginia Hencken Elsasser

Source: Introduction to AccuMark, Pattern Design, and Product Data Management, 2007, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

After studying this chapter, you will be able to

Digitizing

Julia Ridgway Sharp and Virginia Hencken Elsasser

Source: Introduction to AccuMark, Pattern Design, and Product Data Management, 2007, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

After studying this chapter, you will be able to

Getting Started in Pattern Design

Julia Ridgway Sharp and Virginia Hencken Elsasser

Source: Introduction to AccuMark, Pattern Design, and Product Data Management, 2007, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

After studying this chapter, you will be able to

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