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The Design Sketch: A History of Style

Linda Tain

Source: Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers. Fourth Edition, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

As women began to be assimilated into the male-dominated workplace, the need arose for a more tailored and functional working wardrobe. Enter the streamlined hourglass silhouette with leg-o’-mutton sleeve, giving new emphasis to the shoulder line. Multiple petticoats replaced the crinoline and bustle, whereas the corseted bodice remained. The Gibson, Charles DanaGibson Girl look for evening, complete with poufed hair knotted on top, was even more detail oriented than its daytime counterpart, aide

Organization and Contents

Linda Tain

Source: Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers. Fourth Edition, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Portfolio casesentry-levelEntry-level portfolioThe entry-level portfolio for applying to a fashion design program usually consists of a prescribed format (designed by the college) to demonstrate design, rendering, and presentation skills. Whether you prepared the portfolio on your own or during a pre-college program, your interviewer will be looking for drawing ability, creativity and imagination, individuality/style/ personal vision, and an awareness of fashion. These are the criteria you will b

Presentation Concepts

Linda Tain

Source: Portfolio Presentation for Fashion Designers. Fourth Edition, 4th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Because Chapter 4 discusses organization and content, this chapter will primarily deal with the characteristic elements of a Fabric/color portfolio contentspresentation conceptspresentation, namely Mood/theme, presentation conceptsPresentation conceptsmood/thememood/theme, fabric/color story, design groups on figures, and flat presentations.

Menswear Presentations

John Hopkins

Source: Menswear, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There are three responses toa piece of design—yes, no,and wow! Wow is the one toaim for.

Fashion Silhouettes

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

This silhouette hangs straight from the shoulder. At the end of the 1950s, Balenciaga and Givenchy were greatly responsible for introducing this silhouette.

Necklines

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

When drawing any neckline, you must be aware that the shape is going around the neck completely and that it relates to the shoulders and chest area as well. As you can see from the turned and profile views of the neck, it is also higher in the back than the front.

Collars

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Any collar can be cut on the straight, cross, or bias grain or can be mitered on the bias at the center back. However, these different grain lines are most evident on striped collars. The bias-cut collar has the most stretch to it and is often chosen by designers because of its beautiful roll line.

Sleeves

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

1 A tailored sleeve hangs perfectly straight from the armhole and joins the armhole with a seam. When the arm is hanging straight in a relaxed position next to the body, generally the sleeve is free of excess fold. By studying the sleeve pattern of a one-piece, set-in sleeve and its relationship to the arm, you can see that the cap is cut high enough to accommodate the shoulder muscle.

Blouses, Shirts, and Tops

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

When drawing shirts, some important details to observe are:

Skirts

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

We have come a long way since skirt hems swept the ground and women were not allowed to show an ankle. Until the 1960s, skirt lengths were dictated by a handful of major designers, and women followed their lead. Long, to the knees, or as short as the law would allow, until recently the length of a woman's skirt has always been a major fashion issue.

Pants

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The origin of women wearing pants is not known, but as far back as the first century c.e., women from the Middle East and Asia were wearing some form of pants. In a more modern time, Amelia Bloomer, attempting to banish the corset in the mid-1850s, helped to conceive an outfit consisting of a short skirt that was worn over full trousers that were gathered at the ankles. These trousers were called “bloomers” after her. The bloomer costume had a rather short life, but helped to introduce the concep

Drapery, Bias, and Cowls

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Draped garments usually involve the direction of fabric called the bias. Fabric is woven with a crosswise and lengthwise direction. The bias is the diagonal direction extending across the grain of the fabric. The bias has a round, very elastic quality. It also has the ability to cling and fall and follow the curves of the body in a very sensual way.

Tailored Clothing

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

1 First, block off the structure on an underdrawing.

Accessories

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

A hat is the accessory worn on top of the head. A hat may fit the head, be pulled down over the eyes, or almost look as if it were just sitting on the top.

Accessorizing the Figure

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The classic look is one that always passes the test of time. Classic accessories look good one season after the other and one decade after the other. The fashion figure might wear pearls, bangles, espadrilles, hair bows, lizard belts, pumps, shoulder bags, or gloves. These classic accessories are never really “in” or “out” of fashion. In the 1950s and 1960s, Mainbocher, in his couture collections, and Anne Klein, in her sportswear collections, often used classic accessories. At present, Ralph Lau

Stripes and Plaids

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

A stripe is a band of color or texture that may be vertical, horizontal, or diagonal. It can be woven or printed in one or many colors and the stripes may vary in width. Using the center-front principle we can begin to understand vertical and horizontal stripes, which when combined form a pattern called a plaid. A plaid is a design of stripes intersecting at right angles.

Knits

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Included in this category are:

Rendering Concepts

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

For the purposes of this book, we will group the fabrics into four categories, which include: (1) wool and other textured fabrics; (2) shiny fabrics; (3) sheers; and (4) prints. To help you understand these breakdowns and categories, let's take a look at each one.

The Walking Figure

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

The walking figure starts out the exact way a traditional standing figure does.

Menswear

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Women's clothes have been influenced by menswear as far back as the 1930s, when Marlene Dietrich was photographed wearing an adaptation of a man's suit. Additionally, Yves Saint Laurent has been designing tuxedo suits for women for the last 30 years.

Children

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

First, let's look at infants. An infant is a baby from birth to the age when it begins to walk. Its head is one-quarter of the total body size. Everything about an infant is round, from the head and its features to the torso and the arms and legs. The legs turn inward and the knees have exaggerated dimples. Because infants don't walk or even crawl, the only poses available are lying down or propped up.

Volume

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Manipulating the Figure

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Proportion and the Fashion Figure

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Sometimes the body takes over. Sometimes the garment takes over. Sometimes it is more equal. When the body takes over, as in a slinky gown, the garment does not come to life until it is on the body. When the garment takes over, as in a voluminous coat, the body is merely a hanger for the clothing. But many times, it is a combination of both.

Drawing the Fashion Figure

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In the beginning, there are certain rules of proportion with which you must become familiar. The figure is measured in “heads,” with each head representing one inch. These heads will be used to indicate and place the different parts of the fashion figure. After some practice, all the “heads” will suddenly become a figure and after a while you will be drawing!

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