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Draping Principles and Skills

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Draping principles and skillsDraping is a technique in which DesignDesignersdesigners work with fabric, using a dress form or live model, draping and pinning the pieces together to develop the desired style. Draping is the oldest means of creating clothing. It is an art form in fabric. The techniques by which a designer works to develop a line may vary. Many designers prefer to use draping methods to create their original designs. This is because working with actual materials gives a designer gre

The Dress Form, Tools, and Terminology

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Dress formmanufacturers/suppliersDress formarms forArm, dress formIn draping, the dress form is used to manipulate flat fabric to fit the curves of the body accurately. It is used to visualize what a pattern should look like in relationship to the figure. Fabric is prepared, cut, pinned, and contoured to the dress form’s shape to achieve a desired pattern. Usually the Grain crosswiselengthwiseLengthwise grainlengthwise Crossgrain/crosswise grainGrain crosswisegrain of the fabric hangs vertical to

The Basic Bodice

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Shoulder/waistline dart bodiceFitted waist seam bodiceShoulder/waist dart bodiceDart bodiceBodice sloper, basic;When a manufacturer develops a new clothing line, one of the first requirements is a set of foundation patterns (blocks or slopers). These foundation patterns should match the proportion, size, and fit of the target customer. They also provide the designer and manufacturer with a consistent fit, silhouette, ease allowance, armhole size, waistline measurement, and desired length.

The Basic Fitted Skirt

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

A basic fitted two-dart straight skirt is a fitted skirt with side seams parallel to the center of the skirt. The center front and center back are on perfect grain and the hip-level lines are on perfect crossgrain, allowing the area below the hip line to hang straight up and down. This skirt has a fitted waist area in which the excess fabric above the hip line is controlled by waistline darts. This skirt is considered the most important of all skirt drapes because of its versatility in creating m

Sleeves

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesSleeves, basicbasic sloperA sleeve is a section of the garment that covers the arm. The sleeve usually joins the garment in a seam that encircles the arm over the shoulder. The sleeve is “set into the armhole,” thus the term. The grainline in the middle of the sleeve should fall slightly forward, following the curvature of the arm.

Torso/Blouse Sloper and Basic Shift Silhouettes

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Torso/blouse sloperThe torso/blouse sloper and basic shift silhouettes have a bust-fitting dart and no waistline seam. The waist area can be slightly fitted with one or two fisheye darts, belted, or drawn in with elastic. The side seams hang slightly away from the body and are parallel to center front. By using the torso/blouse sloper, it can be lengthened to make a shift design. Many styles of pockets, plackets, yokes, necklines, collars, and/or sleeves can be used to create the individual style

Bodice and Blouse Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesBodice and blouse designsThe bodice and blouse designs in this group are kept simple and natural while the fabric is draped with the correct amount of ease and proportion. Projects explore how to release and manipulate the fabric into a design. Each design defines the style and silhouette over the bust, hip, and waist by emphasizing the use of folds, darts, pleats, fullness, empire seams, and halters, and at the same time, not overworking the fabric.

Designing with Circular Flounces and Ruffles

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesFlounces, circulargathered ruffles andRufflesFlounces, circularFlounces, circulardesignsDesigns with a circular flounce are the stuff of romance. Flounces recall a mood of elegance with a rich, dramatic, graceful flare.

Princess Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesPrincess designsvariations onPrincess designsA princess design has vertical seams that divide the bodice into separate panels. When these seams are sewn together, they take on the same shape as the bodice or blouse, but with vertical seams. Typically, a princess bodice has a close-fitting waist with an unbroken styleline that usually extends from the shoulder or armhole to the waistline. This style almost always crosses over the midpoint of the bustline (apex) a

Dartless Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Dartless designsblouse and shirt silhouettesBodice and blouse designsdartless blouseThe silhouettes within this chapter offer timeless, simple silhouettes that are used in designing blouses, vests, or dresses that do not require the use of a bust-fitting dart. These silhouette shapes can be made short or extended to the length desired, depending upon the design. Various styles may use details such as numerous neckline shapes, collars, yokes, stylelines, tucks, added fullness, and different sleeve

Kimono and Raglan Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

The following sleeve variations are used within the different armhole openings for garment designs—the raglan sleeve and the Kimono sleevekimono sleeve. The kimono sleeve is developed in conjunction with the dartless shirt, whereas the raglan sleeve is developed in conjunction with the torso/blouse. These sleeves are used to create a variety of sleeve designs for dresses, blouses, and shirts.

Skirt Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesSkirt designsA skirt is a separate item of clothing starting above, below, or at the natural waistline. Skirt designs vary from basic tailor-made to extreme. The designer may change a skirt style by draping the design close to the body, or by draping in various fullness, gathers, flares, pleats, gores, or godets. The shape, the sweep of the skirt (the amount of width at the hemline), and the appearance at the hem length will depend upon the design, the customer,

Pants

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesPantsbasic two-dart draftTwo-dart pantsPantsAs requested by many professors, the following pages are directions for drafting the most commonly used pant in lieu of draping. This draft is the industry standard and is the easiest method to create correctly fitting pants and use as a guide in creating various designs and pant drapes. The basic pants for woven fabrics are the basic two-dart pant and the jeans pant. From these basics, many other designs can be create

Knit Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesKnit designsThere is a free-spirit attitude in knitwear, which exhibits an effortless fusion of relaxed casual sportswear with modern sophistication. Fashioning knits allows the designer to create looks that offer super-feminine, whimsical design, an element of nostalgia, or a buoyant sporty look.

Collar and Neckline Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesCollar and neckline designsCowl designsThe focal point of a garment is the neckline. Collars frame the face and, in most cases, are noticed before other details of the garment. It is important that a collar be flattering and that effort be spent in carefully draping and trueing the desired collar design.

Jacket Silhouettes and Collar/Lapel Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Lapel designs, jacketsCollar and neckline designsThe jacket is an item of clothing that is worn over other clothing. The focus for jackets is on alternating lengths and volumes, combining with comfortable lines and collars. Some are made in double-breasted or single-breasted manner, while others have no closing and some are closed with a zipper or buttons.

Cowl Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Cowl designsA cowl features deliciously draped necklines or underarm areas that have falling, soft folds. Cowls are draped on the bias, usually in lighter, finer fabrics to enhance a soft, harmonious look. A Bodice and blouse designscowl blousecowl blouse or dress design can be draped subtly or to add imaginative zing to an otherwise low-key garment. When draping a cowl design, the drape should be done in the same fabric weight as the finished design.

Casual Dress Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Bodice and blouse designsobjectivesCasual dress designsDresses come in many shapes and lengths with a variety of seams, necklines, sleeves, and collars. They are worn for work or play, for day or night, for any occasion, and all year round.

Formal Dress Designs

Connie Amaden-Crawford

Source: The Art of Fashion Draping, 5th Edition, 2018, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

Formal dress designsobjectives inFormal dress designsBustier designsEvening dresses are gorgeous in fluid dress-weight fabrics that are beautifully draped and seductive with their perpetual movement. Arrangements of flounces, sunray pleats, layered ruches, bias cuts, and gathers make dresses dance. Designers should be able to incorporate many draping techniques from this chapter for a special evening look for many clients.

Draping on the Mannequin

Anette Fischer and Kiran Gobin

Source: Construction for Fashion Design, 2nd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

There is a vast range of mannequins available. It is vital before starting with the drape to have a close look at the model stand you are working on. Take measurements and analyze the general shape of the stand to work out if it covers the look and size you are after. In addition, you should have the following tools and equipment to hand before starting to drape.

Translating Concept to Product

Sandra Keiser, Deborah Vandermar and Myrna B. Garner

Source: Beyond Design. The Synergy of Apparel Product Development, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

“Ideas are magical only when they become real and can be appreciated and analyzed. A sketch translated into a sample garment is the realization of an idea. But it becomes complete only when the garment unites with a body moving in space.”

Construction

Richard Sorger and Jenny Udale

Source: The Fundamentals of Fashion Design, 3rd Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Before we can talk about the methods for constructing garments, we must first look at the array of tools and heavy-duty machinery involved in the process of construction. Listed below are some of the key tools.

Drapery, Bias, and Cowls

Steven Stipelman

Source: Illustrating Fashion. Concept to Creation, 4th Edition, 2017, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

Draped garments usually involve the direction of fabric called the bias. Fabric is woven with a crosswise and lengthwise direction. The bias is the diagonal direction extending across the grain of the fabric. The bias has a round, very elastic quality. It also has the ability to cling and fall and follow the curves of the body in a very sensual way.

The Art of Skirts

Zoya Nudelman

Source: The Art of Couture Sewing, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

In the past, during the large petticoat and long train years, a skirt was draped on a woman ordering a dress. The skirt was made to fit over her hips, and the maker checked the customer’s walking ability while wearing the toile sample. This helped save time and added perfection to the pattern as well as customer satisfaction and comfort.

The Secret of the Corset

Zoya Nudelman

Source: The Art of Couture Sewing, 2nd Edition, 2016, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

As previously noted, a corset understructure (also called a boned bodice) serves as a foundation for strapless dresses, gowns, and tops. The boned bodice must be made out of tough and firm fabric and interfaced when additional support is necessary. The best way to make a great pattern for a boned bodice is to drape it.

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