Results: Text (39) Images (0)

You searched for

Modify your search terms or add filters

Filtered by

Sort by
Results per page
Results showing
1 - 25 of 39 (2 pages)
    Page 1 of 2
1690–1815: Chinoiserie, Indiennerie, Turquerie and Egyptomania

Adam Geczy

Source: Fashion and Orientalism. Dress, Textiles and Culture from the 17th to the 21st Century 2013

Book chapter

See, mademoiselle, how that goes well with your Chinese-style hairstyle, your mantle of peacock feathers, your petticoat of celadon and gold, your cinnamon bottoms and your shoes of jade…

Uniforms as Work Dress for Civilians and Military

Thomas S. Abler

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Uniforms are distinctive but standard forms of dress associated with particular occupations and/or social institutions and either supplied or regulated by the associated institution. In donning a uniform one assumes a social role. Since uniforms are often worn in hierarchal institutions, anyone wearing the same uniform can be expected to perform in a similar fashion in a given situation. In initial battles of World War II the soldiers and sailors of the United States wore the British-style steel

Overview of Taiwan

Ching-Yi Cheng and Hsu-Chun Su

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Asia 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The impact of Confucian philosophy on all aspects of Chinese life is evident in the attire of the Han people of Taiwan, specifically as regards the notion of the Doctrine of the Mean, which emphasizes personal introspection and emotional control, focused on cultural nurturing and the rejection of human vanity. Dress preserves modesty by covering the body and obscuring its shape. Importance is placed on inner beauty, the term for which literally means “charm”—the spiritual and cultural quality hop

Court Dress of Thailand: History and Symbolic Significance

Susan Conway

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. South Asia and Southeast Asia 2010

Encyclopedia entry

According to ancient Buddhist chronicles, Thai royalty descended from heaven. Rule by divine right flourished, reinforced by the Khmer belief that kings were manifestations of Brahmanical gods. Thai royalty adopted Hindu court rituals, while Buddhist monks performed rites reflecting the belief that the king is a bodhisattva (a reincarnated Buddha who is a spiritual guide). Early figurines of boddhisatva wear long draped cloth and elaborate jewelry. Sumptuary laws reinforced belief in the king as

Secondhand Clothing

Heike Jenss

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The term secondhand clothing connotes garments that enter a second or new circle of use after they have been worn or used by a previous owner. The handing down, sale, and reuse of previously worn garments have been common practices throughout the history of dress. Even into the twentieth century, garments were expensive goods and often a family investment that was passed on to the next generation or traded and exchanged for other goods. With the wider accessibility of fashion and the acceleration

Croatia: Urban Dress, Seventeenth to Nineteenth Centuries

Andrea Klobučar

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Only a few urban centers had the status of free royal towns in seventeenth-century Croatia, which was predominately rural; fashion was for the rich. Cultural influences came via trade routes from Austria, Italy, and Germany. Fifteenth- and sixteenth-century traders from Dubrovnik had opened offices in England, wool fabrics from London being prized. Dubrovnik women, living between East and West, wore beautiful clothing from both. Eighteenth-century Croatian aristocrats imitated luxurious Parisian

Acadians

Jenna Tedrick Kuttruff

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The Louisiana Acadians were originally French peasants who immigrated in the early 1600s to Acadie, the modern Canadian provinces of Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, bringing their simple dress and methods of production with them to the New World. In 1755, Acadie was surrendered by the French to the English, who subsequently expelled all Acadians who would not submit to the English Crown. Following the ensuing exodus, Acadian exiles sought to preserve their cultural identity by seeking out isolated

Orientalism in Western Dress and Stage Costume

Lloyd Llewellyn-Jones

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Central and Southwest Asia 2010

Encyclopedia entry

From the time of the European Renaissance, the West has been fascinated by the image of the “mysterious,” “exotic,” and “erotic” East. Sometimes, as Edward Said explored in his 1978 book Orientalism, this Western view of the East has been so dependent on the fantastical imaginings of European (and North American) authors, artists, and musicians that the realities of Eastern cultures and societies have been deliberately submerged beneath a vision of “theatricalized” Eastern despotism, characterize

Fashion Designers

Peter McNeil

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Fashion designers are associated in the popular imagination with haute couture (high fashion) and famous individuals. Fashionable clothing requires a concept and also fabrication; sometimes this process is symbiotic, as in the work of many twentieth-century fashion designers. Fashion design can also be linked to aspects of the trades and seen as a vernacular activity with a much longer history. The development of the idea of the fashion designer requires an understanding of the history of making

Interpreting “Civilization” through Dress

Sandra Niessen

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Accepted wisdom holds that dress traditions reflect the full range of environmental factors—physical, cultural, and social—under which they are produced and worn. In this, West European dress is no different from any other clothing system found in the world. Historically, however, the dress of Western civilization has been accorded a special position that has only recently begun to be seriously questioned. At the same time, its primacy can scarcely be disputed, as it has been used as the model fo

The Kashmir Shawl and Its Use in the Indo-Islamic World and Europe

Janet Rizvi

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. South Asia and Southeast Asia 2010

Encyclopedia entry

For the entire period of its known history, the classic Kashmir shawl, woven in twill tapestry from the finest trans-Himalayan goat pashm (cashmere), was manufactured as an export item, destined for the highest end of the market in plains India, Afghanistan, Iran, and the Ottoman Empire, and later in Europe and the United States. The industry was highly structured, and its output was tailored to the demand of particular markets. Merchants from foreign countries traveled to Srinagar, Kashmir’s cap

Shoes and Shoemaking

Elizabeth Semmelhack

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Shoemaking in North America dates back to the establishment of the very first colonies. It was one of the trades that the Virginia Company hoped to establish in Jamestown, and one of the early investors in the Virginia Company was the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, the shoemakers’ guild in London. The first mention of shoemakers, or cordwainers as they were known (a term derived from their work with Cordova leather) dates to 1610. Archaeological evidence from Jamestown suggests that the Engli

Immigrants Encounter North American Dress

Linda Welters

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Immigrants face many challenges when settling in a new country as they arrive with different cultural beliefs and practices. Immigrants may elect to reject the old and adapt their beliefs to their new culture, to preserve their “Old World” culture, or to blend some aspects of their cultural heritage into their lives as immigrants. The process by which one group takes on the cultural traits of a larger group is called assimilation. A related concept is acculturation, which is a change in the cultu

Historical Evidence: Taiwan

Ho Zhaohua

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Asia 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The history of Taiwanese dress has been deeply influenced by politics and history. Taiwan’s location approximately 150 kilometers (93 miles) off the southeastern coast of China has over the centuries both linked it to and separated it from mainland East Asia. It continues to be a major factor in the geopolitics of the region in the early twenty-first century. Taiwan’s location on major maritime trading routes from Southeast Asia, Indonesia, China, Korea, Japan, and the Ryukyu Islands has also imp

‘Twisted’ Poses: The Kabuku Aesthetic in Early Edo Genre Painting

John T. Carpenter

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion 2nd Edition 2009

Book chapter

Kabuki as we know it today – a highly respectable ‘traditional’ theatre with male actors playing established roles in dramas with complex plots – did not emerge until the late seventeenth century. In its earliest manifestation, it was a dance theatre with female performers, whose dances and skits appealed to the warrior elite and commoner alike. The word for Kabuki drama is now properly written with three Chinese characters, ‘song’, ‘dance’, and ‘skill’, but it has a less flattering etymology rel

The Economics of Clothing in the Late Seventeenth Century

N. B. Harte

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion 2nd Edition 2009

Book chapter

It will not surprise any student of pre-industrial England that an attempt to apply Clapham's questions to the subject of clothing starts with Gregory King. Gregory King (1648–1712) is well known as one of the pioneers in the field of political arithmetic, as the statistical study of society was known from the late seventeenth century.D. V. Glass, ‘Two Papers on Gregory King’, in D. V. Glass and D. E. C. Eversley (eds), Population in History (1965), pp. 159–220; G. S. Holmes, ‘Gregory King and th

Masculine Apparel

Stephen Orgel

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion 2nd Edition 2009

Book chapter

it was not lawful for women to swear by Hercules, nor to enter into his temple: this was a punishment laid upon that sex, for the insolency of Queen Omphale over Hercules, in causing him so effeminately to serve her.AlexanderRoss, Mystagogus Poeticus, or the Muses Interpreter (London, 1648), pp. 169–70.

To Fashion a Self: Dressing in Seventeenth-Century England

Sue Vincent

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion 2nd Edition 2009

Book chapter

“I have much wondered why our English above other nations should so much dote upon new fashions …”

Head and Neck

Susan J. Vincent

Source: The Anatomy of Fashion. Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today 2009

Book chapter

1663. Two years after Charles II’s triumphant return as the English monarch, the unspeakable horror of the plague yet two years in the future with the Great Fire to come after that, and Samuel Pepys was facing a personal dilemma. He wanted to try wearing a wig, but lacked the resolution to cut off his hair. While two years earlier he had been very particular about how it was trimmed, ‘finding that the length of it doth become me very much’, by May 1663 he was experiencing such difficulty keeping

Skin

Susan J. Vincent

Source: The Anatomy of Fashion. Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today 2009

Book chapter

Wrapping us into flexible parcels of flesh, skin holds the inside and outside apart. It is our boundary with the rest of the world, keeping us contained and discrete: skin defines where we stop and everything else starts. Histories of its fashioning usually view it as a kind of blank canvas on which decoration is inscribed, as in the case of tattooing, scarification, piercings, and cosmetic adornment. In this chapter, however, I want to look not at how our cutaneous envelope has been decorated, b

Breasts and Waist

Susan J. Vincent

Source: The Anatomy of Fashion. Dressing the Body from the Renaissance to Today 2009

Book chapter

Plotting the whereabouts of the waist on a map of the body is a surprisingly tricky undertaking. Like a fashion version of pin the tail on the donkey, the waist has ended up in unexpected places. Drifting up and down the torso as decade has followed decade, its location—particularly, but not exclusively, on women—has altered with a ready adaptability: as fashions change, the waist decamps and wanders off in search of a new, albeit temporary, residence. In Anthropometamorphosis, a seventeenth-cent

Consumer Behaviour, Textiles and Dress in the Late Seventeenth and Early Eighteenth Centuries

Lorna Weatherill

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion 2nd Edition 2009

Book chapter

A useful starting point is to ask whether clothing was important to individuals and what proportion of expenditure was devoted to it. Doing this provides a context for further discussion because clothing clearly had a high priority in domestic expenditure, even in middle rank families of modest means. It is here that the evidence from household accounts is especially valuable, and Table 1 summarises the proportions of expenditure on clothing in five households. The notes that accompany the table

European Consumption and Asian Production in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries

John E. Wills

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion 2nd Edition 2009

Book chapter

This chapter is a very preliminary exploration of the territory at the intersection of two rapidly developing fields of historical study. One is the history of consumption in early modern Europe which is the focus of this volume. The other is the history of maritime Asia in early modern times. Recent changes in the historiography of the latter field have not been very widely noticed outside the circles of scholars who are making direct contributions. I would suggest the nature and depth of the ch

Shifting Currency: The Culture and Economy of the Second Hand Trade in England, c. 1600–1850

Beverly Lemire

Source: Old Clothes, New Looks. Second Hand Fashion 2005

Book chapter

In the long period of human history in the West before the full force of industrialization changed the world, the scarcity of goods ensured their careful husbanding. Use and reuse defined the everyday for all but a tiny minority of the population. However, by at least the late sixteenth century, dramatic and progressive changes in trade and manufacturing were stimulating regional economies, changing social relations, as scarcity slowly and very gradually began to give way before a rising abundanc

Far Eastern Influences in Latin American Fashions

Araceli Tinajero

Source: The Latin American Fashion Reader 2005

Book chapter

Back to top
Results showing
1 - 25 of 39 (2 pages)
Page 1 of 2