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Introduction

Sheila Cliffe

Source: The Social Life of Kimono. Japanese Fashion Past and Present, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Think Fashion or Tradition?

Sheila Cliffe

Source: The Social Life of Kimono. Japanese Fashion Past and Present, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Kimono lovers may question the necessity for this chapter at all. Why does it matter if kimono is regarded as fashion or tradition anyway? It matters because the WestWest in general, and FranceFrance in particular, have claimed the fashioncenter ofcenter of fashion as their own and still retain a hegemonyhegemony in fashion discourse. Even at a fashion technology conference at the most prestigious fashion fashionschoolschool in TokyoTokyo in 2014, I heard two Japanese professors referring to Pari

Mode Becomes Modern: Meiji to Twenty-First Century

Sheila Cliffe

Source: The Social Life of Kimono. Japanese Fashion Past and Present, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Kon’s work showed that at the beginning of the 1950s, half of the women walking in GinzaGinza were wearing western clothing, which was on the increase as kimono wearing declined. cultureJapaneseJapanese women did not suddenly change from kimono to western dressdress, but even those who stayed in kimono brought up their childrenchildren wearing western clothes. Thus kimono began to vanish from everyday life, and a postwar generation grew up without it. So the natural order of a mother teaching her

Wearers and Wardrobes

Sheila Cliffe

Source: The Social Life of Kimono. Japanese Fashion Past and Present, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Wardrobe(s)Wardrobe(s)wardrobe studiesThe fashion fashionsystemsystem is realized in the creation of the fashion items, and in their diffusion to the public through mediamedia images. However, a fashion system does not exist without fashion leaders and followers. If there are no wearers, then there is no fashion. This chapter investigates kimono wearing practice through a wardrobe survey of kimono wearerskimono wearers, discussion of kimono group(s)groups, and also through interviews with kimono

Returning Kimono to the Streets

Sheila Cliffe

Source: The Social Life of Kimono. Japanese Fashion Past and Present, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The hegemonyhegemony that continues to state either directly or indirectly that fashion is a product of European society is facing increasing challenges, and we appear to be in the midst of a paradigm shift. The story of the kimono can be considered one of these challenges. Clothing history in Japan shows an obsession with selfself-presentation going way back to early historical records. While accomplishment in all the arts was desirable for the HeianHeian Edoperiodperiod woman, the most importan

Clothes of Carnival: Personal Puppeteering and Role Play

Adam Geczy

Source: The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art. Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

puppetMolière (Jean-Baptiste Poquelin)The Imaginary InvalidKepler, JoannesGalilei, GallileoDescartes, Renécommedia dell’arteAh! ah! ah! ah! How I have made them scared! Here we have some fools who fear me, me who fears others. I’faith! It is only about playing face in this world. Had I not played the lord, and had not played the hero, they wouldn’t have bothered nabbing me. Ah! ah! ah! ah!

A Soul in Control: The Art of the Automaton

Adam Geczy

Source: The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art. Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

automaton, automataMy friend, there are three models, Diderot, DenisThe Paradox of the Actorthe man of nature, the man of poetry and the man of acting. The one of nature is not as great as the poet who is in turn not as great as the great actor, the most exaggerated of all. The latter climbs onto the shoulders of the poet, a large wicker mannequin that houses its soul, shaking this figure fearfully, even to the extent that the poet no longer recognizes himself.

Dark Doubles: Dolls as a Solution to the Fallible Body

Adam Geczy

Source: The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art. Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

automaton, automatadollMaeterlinck, MauriceIntérieurmarionettePulchinello, Policinelle, Pulchinella, 15, 21, 23–25, 25, 156nn49 andRomanticism, Romantic eraDo you see, then, what has made me love and learn to value that which to-day we call the “puppetpuppet” and to detest that which we call “life” and “art.”

Between Torture and Transcendence: The Doll in Art

Adam Geczy

Source: The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art. Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Byron, George Gordon Lord“Prometheus”Schlegel, FriedrichLucindeFor with her is everything in nature is animate and inspired, and often remember fondly how she at Wharton, EdithThe House of Mirththe age of no more than one year old she saw and felt a puppetpuppet for the first time. A heavenly smile blossomed upon her face and she pressed a heart-felt kiss on its painted wooden lips.

A Model Subject: The Window Dummy, the Fashion Doll and the Double

Adam Geczy

Source: The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art. Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

fashion modeldollNevertheless, it is a fact that I have not failed at times to play men certain tricks not altogether unworthy to be compared to your own work; as, for example, boring men’s ears, or lips, or noses, and lacerating them with the trinkets which I place therein; or scorching their bodies with hot irons, which I persuade them to apply to their persons by way of improving their beauty. Then again, I sometimes squeeze the heads of their children with ligatures and other appliances, rend

Extreme Hellene: Sport, Superheroes and the Modern Übermensch

Adam Geczy

Source: The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art. Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Hellinism, HellenicKirschoff, BodoLagerfeld, KarlI am my own marionette

Genetically Baroque Beings: Cybergender, Transexuality and Natrificiality

Adam Geczy

Source: The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art. Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Take La CicciolinaLa Cicciolina. Is there any more wonderful embodiment of sex, of the pornographic innocence of sex? She has been contrasted with MadonnaMadonna, the virgin product of aerobics and a glacial aesthetic, devoid of all charm and sensuality, a muscled android, ripe for precisely that reason for conversion into a computer-generated idol on account of the strange deterrence she generates. But, if we think about it, is not La Cicciolina also a transexual? Her long, platinum-blonde hair,

Future Postscript: Shells and Ghosts, Bodies and Souls

Adam Geczy

Source: The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art. Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Baudelaire, CharlesMost of The Ghost in the Shell (film)The Ghost in the Shell 2: Innocence (film)The Ghost in the Shell 2: Innocence (film)the little ones want above all to see the soul, some after a little recreation, others straight away. It is the greater or lesser invasion of desire that determines the greater or smaller longevity of the toy. I feel I don’t have the gumption to reproach this childhood mania: it’s the first metaphysical tendency. When the desire is stuck in the marrow of the

Conclusion: Between Beauty and Terror

Adam Geczy

Source: The Artificial Body in Fashion and Art. Marionettes, Models, and Mannequins, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Baudelaire, CharlesMann, ThomasBuddenbrocksWould the puppetpuppet theater be big? Big and wide? How would the curtain look? A small hole has to cut into it as soon as possible because there was also a peephole in the State Theatre’s curtain. . . . Had Grandma or Miss Severin—because Grandma can’t do everything—found the decorations needed for Fidelio? As soon as it was morning he would decide on a site and do a show all on his own . . . And already the figures in his heart began singing, because

History, Art, and Plastic Bags: Viewing South Africa Through Fashion

Victoria L. Rovine

Source: Modern Fashion Traditions. Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Victoria Rovine develops a fascinating reflection as to how a prosaic global commodity, namely, the ubiquitous plastic bag, has become a fashion icon in South Africa. Labelled as ‘China bags’ (reflecting their country of manufacture), Rovine explores the collections of two South African fashion designers who base their work around the potential of these plastic containers. They have transformed the global bag into a distinctively local fashion icon as a symbol of the mixed messages of postmoderni

Introduction

Adam Geczy and Jacqueline Millner

Source: Fashionable Art, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

And now the art world has become so big and stars seem to come and go as swiftly as reality television characters in Hollywood …

What is Fashionable Art?

Adam Geczy and Jacqueline Millner

Source: Fashionable Art, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

the erosion of the older distinction between high culture and so-called mass or popular culture. This is perhaps the most distressing development of all from the academic standpoint, which has traditionally had a vested interest in preserving a realm of high, or elite culture against the surrounding environment of philistinism, of schlock, and kitschkitsch, of TV series and Reader’s DigestReader’s Digest culture, and in transmitting difficult and complex skills of reading, listening and seeing to

The Artist as Impresario, the Artist as Brand: from Baudelaire to Barney

Adam Geczy and Jacqueline Millner

Source: Fashionable Art, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

So much of the world is advertising, and because of that, individuals feel they have to present themselves as a package.

Less is Less: Formlessness

Adam Geczy and Jacqueline Millner

Source: Fashionable Art, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

formlessnessWell, concerning civility or public morality, you can now see what’s happening in art. For any art exhibition in London, for example, to be effective, it must be something disgusting: show some dead fish or the excrement of cows. At one exhibition, my god, they showed a video of a colonoscopy. Today, more and more, the cultural-economic apparatus itself has to incite stronger and more shocking effects and products. These are the recent trends in the arts. But the thing is that transgr

Minimalism: Donald Judd Or Ikea?

Adam Geczy and Jacqueline Millner

Source: Fashionable Art, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Minimalist artists constructed simple, monochromatic, geometric objects of formal symmetry, characterized by an absence of traditional composition. Minimalism was an extreme abstract art, not imitative but solipsistic, self-referential: it was unto itself, harking back to the idea of truth to materials whose lineage can be located in the Russian Constructivists (particularly Rodchenko, AleksandrRodchenko and El Lissitzky) through to Moore, HenryMoore, Hepworth, BarbaraHepworth, Gabo, NoamGabo, Pe

Conclusion: Fashionable Art

Adam Geczy and Jacqueline Millner

Source: Fashionable Art, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

The Twenties, Thirties, and World War II, 1920–1947

Phyllis G. Tortora and Sara B. Marcketti

Source: Survey of Historic Costume. Student Study Guide, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter

After studying this chapter, you will be able to:

The Twenties, Thirties, and World War II 1920–1947

Phyllis G. Tortora and Sara B. Marcketti

Source: Survey of Historic Costume, 6th Edition, 2015, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

With the end of World War I, Europe and the United States hoped for a return to normalcy. U.S. President Woodrow Wilson, a strong proponent of the League of Nations, campaigned arduously for ratification of the Treaty of Versailles and membership for the United States in the League. These efforts cost him his health—he suffered a breakdown in 1919—and he was an invalid for the remainder of his 17 months in office. In the end, the Senate defeated the treaty, and the United States never joined the

Science, Color, and Art

James Thomas Long

Source: The New Munsell Student Color Set, 4th Edition, 2011, Fairchild Books Library

Book chapter + STUDIO

It is important to understand that all the major advancements in color usage have been spearheaded by discoveries and developments in science, and not by legend, myth, and spirituality. This chapter provides an introduction to the major scientific developments that changed how artists and designers used and use color.

Russian Constructivism in Dress and Textiles

Djurdja Bartlett

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Constructivism was embedded in immense political and social changes brought about by the Bolshevik Revolution. Its appearance in 1919 resulted from the merger of two parallel but very different artistic movements: futurism and proletkult. While futurism rebelled against bourgeois culture and lifestyle in a series of anarchistic practices, proletkult was a politically motivated mass movement that promoted a separate culture for the proletariat. In this context, for the constructivists, fashion was

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