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Hip-Hop

Shayla Corinne Black

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Hip-hop is a multifaceted genre of twentieth-century music, whose influence has expanded from the streets to the runway. It is a global phenomenon embraced by millions. Hip-hop began in the Bronx, New York and was forged by black youth as a form of artistic expression. Groups like Run-D.M.C. were iconic with their trademarks: Adidas sneakers, tracksuits, bucket hats, and gold rope chains. The fashion world avidly participated by appropriating the bright colors, athletic wear, loose-fitting garmen

1990s Style: Key Themes and Trends

Melissa Marra-Alvarez

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The 1990s, the decade that brought a close to the second millennium, appeared to introduce fashion trends at a breakneck pace, prompting the January 1996 issue of American Vogue to report that “never [had] a decade been so indecisive when it [came] to fashion.” However, despite the rapid cycling of styles that characterized this decade, a number of trends did manage to leave a lasting impression, such that these are now considered emblematic of 1990s fashion. This article examines five of these f

Sweden

Ulla Brück

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Historically there are several indications of an urge to follow fashion in Sweden, although changes were slow. During the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries medieval and Renaissance traits still dominated. In the eighteenth century, two-piece dresses for women and breeches and jackets for men became more common. Sweden has numerous varieties of provincial folk dress. Some consider these to be historic items, with strong local identification, while others see them as inventions of nineteenth-cent

Hijab

Fadwa El Guindi

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

In the Qur’an (considered the primary and divinely revealed source), but mostly according to the Hadith (Prophetic Narrative, a secondary worldly source), evidence suggests that the Prophet Muhammad had paid much attention to dress style and manner for Muslims in the emerging community, gradually developing a dress code. There was a specific focus on Muslim men’s clothing and bodily modesty particularly during prayer, but reference to women’s body cover is negligible.

Dance and Fashion

Thomas Hecht

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The nineteenth century was dedicated to the waltz, which had developed as a bourgeois activity in Europe and America. In May I Have the Pleasure?, Belinda Quirey argues that in the wake of political, romantic, and industrial revolutions, the waltz was a completely new dance form that perfectly suited the new conditions of modern life—socially, psychologically, and materially. These nineteenth-century developments in dance were reflected in elaborate dance costumes for lower-and middle-class women

Subcultural and Alternative Dress in Australia

Glynis Jones

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands 2010

Encyclopedia entry

From the beginning of European settlement in New South Wales in 1788, Australians were using alternative forms of dress, body decoration, and modification, visibly expressing individual and collective identities, aesthetic codes, values, beliefs, and cultural experiences different from the dominant culture. Some developed personal style statements, and others have been part of collective subcultural expressions linked to interests, lifestyles, and philosophies. Most have been youth-generated, chi

Subcultural Dress

David Muggleton and Dunja Brill

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

A subculture can be defined as a group with particular shared cultural features that distinguish it clearly from other subcultures and both the specific milieu (parent culture) and wider society (dominant culture) from which it emerges. The definition of culture on which this notion of a subculture is based is borrowed from anthropology and is taken to mean a whole way of life of a society or particular section thereof, depending on the level of analysis. A subculture can therefore be seen as a d

Pacific Street Styles in Auckland

Giles Peterson and Billie Lythberg

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands 2010

Encyclopedia entry

A moko with a kilt…a “Kalo and Fried Corned-Beef” (KFC) T-shirt…tapa-printed hoodies worn with lavalavas … a tupenu with clogs … the hint of a pe’a above jeans … urban Pacific street style brings a distinctly Aotearoa (New Zealand)–Pacific flavor to international trends and labels, fusing together elements of the local and the global, the high-tech and the handcrafted, Pacific motifs and multinational branding, haute couture and factory standard issue. Particularly associated with Auckland, known

Music and Dress

Else Skjold

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Music and dress have played a significant role in the civilization process in West Europe. Both being aesthetic fields meant to be performed and put into play by human gesture, they have proved to be efficient tools for cultivating the movements, postures, and gestures of the body. The material, cut, and shape of dress have manipulated the body to move in certain ways, as have rhythms and expressions in music. Significant for West Europe has been a duality between spirit and body, causing a divis

Navigations of Style

Emma Tarlo

Source: Visibly Muslim. Fashion, Politics, Faith 4th Edition 2010

Book chapter

The hijab, as we have already seen, is fraught with contradictory interpretations and expectations and nowhere is this more apparent than in hijabi women’s own discourses on the subject. On the one hand many are anxious to specify that the hijab ‘is just a piece of cloth’—a simple bit of fabric wrapped around the head. They are therefore highly critical of the so-called fetishization of hijab in the media. On the other hand a huge amount of time, energy and reflection is spent discussing personal

Flava in Ya Gear: Transgressive Politics and the Influence of Hip-Hop on Contemporary Fashion

Robin M. Chandler and Nuri Chandler-Smith

Source: Twentieth-Century American Fashion 2008

Book chapter

Editors’ Introduction: In creating a distinctive style, youth in the 1990s rejected the power look of the 1980s as well as the hippie look of their parents. Yet, revivals that had been so abundant in the 1980s continued to abound. Influences seemed to come from everywhere. Multiple cultures and various historical periods offered a barrage of ideas for presenting oneself to the world. Casual dress and the mixing of styles, called ‘bricolage,’ had reached new heights. Labels, especially for jeans,

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