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Alexandre Herchcovitch

Elizabeth Kutesko

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

Lesbian and Gay Dress

Shaun Cole

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Although same-sex sexual activity has been occurring at least as long as the human race has been recording social activity, it was not until the late nineteenth century that terminology based on sexual identity replaced definitions and descriptions of sexual acts. Psychiatrists, sexologists, and human rights campaigners such as Richard von Krafft-Ebing, Karl Heinrich Ulrichs, and Karl Maria Kertbeny developed notions that same-sex attraction was related to identity and conceived terms such as urn

Queer Dress in Australia

Peter McNeil

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The history of queer dress in Australia resides in the unpublished documentation and memories of gay, lesbian, and transgender people. Changing understandings of sexual practice have affected queer dress codes and bodily appearance. Australia’s queer history extends back to convict days, when the social concept of homosexuality was nonexistent, and further back to same-sex rituals and relationships forming part of some indigenous cultures. Most surviving evidence of queer coteries is metropolitan

Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual, and Transgendered Persons

Andrew Reilly

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Reliable information about dress in the lesbian, gay, bisexual, or transgendered (LGBT) community has become available only recently. For many years negative attitudes held by much of the non-LGBT population resulted in beliefs and stereotypes that were often superficial and inaccurate. Research into the dress of members of the LGBT community is now providing a more detailed and nuanced view of the subject. When a person “comes out” or acknowledges an LGBT identity, it is often a mixed blessing;

Eastern Europe and the Politics of Costume at the Eurovision Song Contest

Dean Vuletic

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The Eurovision Song Contest is the world’s biggest popular music contest and one of its most-watched televised events; held annually since 1956, in the early twenty-first century it has a global viewership in the hundreds of millions. In this contest, songs are selected at national preliminaries and then sent to an international final, where they are ranked by juries and viewers from the participating countries (until the late 1990s, national juries awarded votes, but since then televoting by the

Eros and Liberty at the English Masquerade, 1710–90

Terry Castle

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion 2nd Edition 2009

Book chapter

Transvestite Pedagogy: Jacqueline and Cuban Culture

James J. Pancrazio

Source: The Latin American Fashion Reader 2005

Book chapter

That things are not always what they seem – or that seeming itself, the mirage or camouflage, was all there was to see …

Introduction

Charlotte Suthrell

Source: Unzipping Gender. Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture 2004

Book chapter

Starting research in the field cannot help but begin with some preconceived ideas and prepared research plans – they form the basis for the study. Quite often, these notions receive some challenge or disruption during the course of the research, and this was certainly true for me. Even in the early stages of fieldwork I found I had different sets of expectations with regard to each of the two groups with whom I did primary research. My initial intentions involved studying both groups roughly equa

Clothing Sex, Sexing Clothes: Transvestism, Material Culture and the Sex and Gender Debate

Charlotte Suthrell

Source: Unzipping Gender. Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture 2004

Book chapter

After the birth of a baby the first question of interest seems almost always and inevitably to be with regard to its sex and it seems likely that this has been the first question not just for centuries but for millennia. Alison Shaw bears this out: ‘What have you got?’, the midwives persistently asked me, at the birth of my third child. Dazed and amazed, by having just delivered a healthy and very red-looking baby, it took me some minutes to work out why they kept asking me this question. I had n

Transvestites in the UK: The Dream of Fair Women

Charlotte Suthrell

Source: Unzipping Gender. Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture 2004

Book chapter

As I began to write this section, the Sunday Times obligingly provided a most interesting cover to their ‘Style’ section; it showed a sultry looking man, with a fringe over his eyes, lipstick and a visible five o’clock shadow, wearing a lacy black top with a plunging front that reveals his modestly hairy chest. The accompanying banner footer reads, ‘Strewth! Will blokes be wearing blouses?’ (see Figure 1) The article inside, by Simon Mills, headed ‘Boys won’t be girls’ declared that many designer

Disorder within the Pattern – the Hijras of India

Charlotte Suthrell

Source: Unzipping Gender. Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture 2004

Book chapter

When I began research in India, I discovered very quickly that interviewing hijras can be a tricky business. I had read as much as I could from the scant material available and discovered a number of notable details – and, not surprisingly, was thus quite unprepared for the interviews themselves. I chose to concentrate on Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan in northwest India since it has the reputation of being one of the last places where hijras still have a ‘courtly’ status and personification –

Crossing Gender Boundaries in Cultural Context: Fieldwork Comparisons and Cultural Influences

Charlotte Suthrell

Source: Unzipping Gender. Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture 2004

Book chapter

Although there is no ubiquitous costume for transvestites in Britain or in India, many factors render a different situation regarding clothes. In India options are fewer and there is less individual choice regarding clothing. Both UK transvestites and hijras wear what can loosely be designated as ‘women’s clothes’, but there are differences which mainly stem from their different position in each society. Hijras wear either a sari or salwar kameez and occasionally, a form of Rajasthani women’s dre

Dressing Up/Dressing Down: Reconsidering Sex and Gender Culture

Charlotte Suthrell

Source: Unzipping Gender. Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture 2004

Book chapter

My interest in this was aroused because the words ‘soft’ and ‘softness’ cropped up so often in the questionnaires and in interviews that I realised they warranted some deeper exploration and thought. What I began to recognise was that the contrast between these two words shows up very clearly the conceptualisations which take place behind the words themselves and their accepted meanings. The UK transvestites make it very plain that for them, cross dressing is, to varying degrees, about expressing

Thinking of Themselves: Transvestism and Concepts of the Person

Charlotte Suthrell

Source: Unzipping Gender. Sex, Cross-Dressing and Culture 2004

Book chapter

Despite the large amount of material concerning the discourses of sex, gender and sexuality, transvestism is surprisingly under-researched. Perhaps because it usually provokes derision or embarrassment and has risible rather than serious associations with sexual perversion and deviance, it has been shied away from, even in academic circles. In particular, transvestism has rarely been considered cross-culturally – and some important and thought provoking questions have remained unasked. The studie

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