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Underwear from the 1970s to 2000

Hayley-Jane Edwards-Dujardin

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

From the twentieth century, underwear has acquired a functional and an aesthetic purpose, sometimes serving as a second skin for comfort and at other times as an exoskeleton, reshaping the body’s natural form. It conceals or audaciously reveals women’s intimacy and thus nourishes erotic fantasies in a flirtatious game of “nice meets naughty.” Underwear originally had a function of protection, hygiene, and support; it embodied the existing social boundaries between the hidden intimacy and the publ

Azzedine Alaïa, Spring/Summer 1986

Veronica Maldonado

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Azzedine Alaïa’s spring/summer 1986 collection presents the designer’s work during the height of its initial popularity. Alaïa’s work rose to prominence during the 1980s with his body-conscious silhouettes and revealing cuts, garments that spoke directly to fashion’s transitional period of the 1980s, when trends began leaning towards a more masculine yet simultaneously sexualized feminine look. Shortly after this presentation, Alaïa was given a fashion Oscar, cementing his place in the era’s fash

Marc Jacobs, Spring/Summer 1995

Hayley-Jane Mazières

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

When the American designer Marc Jacobs appeared on New York’s fashion scene, in 1986, after graduating from the Parsons School of Design, he promptly attracted the attention of the fashion press, which praised his playful yet sophisticated streetwear. During his appointment as Perry Ellis’s creative director from 1988, he dared to launch a groundbreaking grunge collection in 1992—the press loved it; Perry Ellis executives loathed it—and he was publicly suspended from his assignment. Nonetheless,

Donna Summer

Amanda M. B. Pajak

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Donna Summer (1948–2012), born LaDonna Adrian Gaines of Boston, Massachusetts, was titled the “Queen of Disco” during her lifetime and beyond. Predominantly active as a singer-performer during the disco era of the mid- to late 1970s, Summer’s vocal talent and performance aesthetic defined an era of music in addition to an evolution of fashion tied to the hedonistic nightlife of New York City and Los Angeles that was synonymous with the excess and extravagance of the decade. During live performanc

Mugler, Spring/Summer 1998

Laura Peach

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

Designer Thierry Mugler’s spring/summer 1998 collection introduced powerful concepts of a woman’s body reimagined through classic Mugler tropes of courtesans and Parisian women. Trends from the collection that were prominent during the late 1990s included bra tops, corset dresses, and single-shoulder suits. Mugler also inventively incorporated body piercing into one couture garment, by having the veil-like front attached to the wearer’s pierced nipples. The collection fell in line with themes and

Brooke Shields

Anne Reimers

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

In the 1980s, American actress Brooke Shields rose from the status of controversial child actress in the film Pretty Baby (1978) to that of a world-famous model, actress, and celebrity. It was her style and particularly her beauty in The Blue Lagoon (1980) that turned her into an icon with a large fan base. In 1981, aged sixteen, her appearance in sexualized adverts for Calvin Klein Jeans redefined the profile of the fashion brand. Shields appeared on the cover of dozens of international magazine

Ungaro, Fall/Winter 1987

Vanessa Semmens

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Article

The major trend for fall/winter 1987 was short, skintight dresses and low necklines. Designers crafted garments that emphasized women’s bodies, and “Emanuel Ungaro in Paris, for example, presented the most blatant of sexy statements with panache, wit and skill,” according to journalist Carrie Donovan. Ruching, ruffles, and frills were prominent. High necklines abounded: Ungaro employed these as design features as he liked to emphasize the graceful shape of a woman’s neck.

Blumarine

Vanessa Semmens

Source: Fashion Photography Archive 2015

Designer Biography

For reasons concerning the politics of power governing the site I had chosen to do my fieldwork on, I was told by the party’s manager that I should not talk to the dancers at the events. If I wanted to do my research there I should carry it out in a discreet and silent way. Not daring to question this, I went to the top of the stand facing the dance floor and started to watch the festivities from there. My project of considering the objects through their materiality and agency had to be postponed

Indigo Bodies: Fashion, Mirror Work and Sexual Identity in Milan

Roberta Sassatelli

Source: Global Denim 2011

Book chapter

Pondering over her wardrobe, Francesca, a stylish, freshly graduated woman in her mid-twenties, says that, whilst they are ‘vital’ to her, ‘Denim jeans just sit with the rest [of her clothes]: they are just in the middle of the mess, but I take them out much more often, so always know where they are’ (Interview 15). These few words allude to the particular position that jeans – normal and yet special – occupy in young people dressing practices. This partly reflects what youth from Milan participa

Lufthansa Uniforms

Regina Henkel

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Airline uniforms give an insight into the airline’s historical, economic, social, and gender-related values. They lend the otherwise-standardized flying services a distinctive appearance and enable the airlines to imbue their staff with cultural associations and emotions according to the prescribed image. From early on, the German airline, Lufthansa, focused efforts on the appearance of its employees.

Porn Chic

Annette Lynch

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The mainstreaming of pornographic imagery into fashion and popular culture at the turn of the millennium in Britain and the U.S. signaled a dramatic cultural shift in the construction of both femininity and masculinity. For men and women, raunch became the new cool. This article draws from a diverse range of examples including film, popular tabloids, campus culture, mass-media marketing campaigns, Facebook profiles, and art exhibits to explore expressions and meanings of porn chic as embodied wit

Sexualization of Preteen Girls in Norway

Mari Rysst

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Between 2000 and 2006, the ideals of teenage culture and youth influenced fashion for female children as well as grown women. The age group between nine and twelve years, the so-called tweens, has been the topic of recurrent debates in Western media discourses as they are viewed as acting “older than their age.” The expression points to the existence of cultural norms concerning age, dress codes, and appearance related to social classification. The concern is particularly addressed to girls when

Uniforms for Women

Jennifer Craik

Source: Uniforms Exposed. From Conformity to Transgression 2005

Book chapter

In an English history school textbook, A Pageant of History (Collins Pageant of Knowledge Series 1966: 18), an account of the first world war includes eight photographs of women’s war contributions as bus conductors (“for the first time ever”); land girls (“to help food production”); ambulance officers (“marched smartly by to do their bit”); “there were even women in the Fire Brigade” saluting at dismissal; “factories, too, were ‘manned’ by women”; and “when it was all over, the women cheered as

Corsetry, Advertising, and Multiple Readings of the Nineteenth-Century Female Body

Leigh Summers

Source: Bound to Please. A History of the Victorian Corset 2001

Book chapter

in their traditional exhibitionist way women are simultaneously looked at and displayed, with their appearance coded for a strong visual and erotic impact so that they can be said to connote to-be-looked-at-ness.L.Mulvey, Visual and Other Pleasures, Indiana University Press, Bloomington, 1989, p. 19.

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