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Here: The Haunting Joy of Being in England

Carol Tulloch

Source: The Birth of Cool. Style Narratives of the African Diaspora, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

[T]he past has to be taken apart. Old themes are worn as new details.

“My Man, Let Me Pull Your Coat to Something”: Malcolm X

Carol Tulloch

Source: The Birth of Cool. Style Narratives of the African Diaspora, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

[P]eople are always speculating—why am I as I am? To understand that of any person, his whole life, from birth must be reviewed. All of our experiences fuse into our personality. Everything that ever happened to us is an ingredient.

You Should Understand, It’s A Freedom Thing: The Stoned Cherrie–Steve Biko T-Shirt

Carol Tulloch

Source: The Birth of Cool. Style Narratives of the African Diaspora, 2018, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

In the face you can have all kinds of political landscapes

A Narrative of Jazz Modernity

Alphonso D. McClendon

Source: Fashion and Jazz. Dress, identity and subcultural improvisation, 2015, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

postmodern identity, in jazzidentity(ies)postmodern in jazz“Satchmo at the Waldorf”“Lady Day at Emerson’s Bar & Grill”“Jazz Urbane”Holiday, Billie“Lady Day at Emerson’s Bar & Grill”classic jazzIn popular culture, jazz is situated in an environment beyond the 1960s stage of fusion, divergence and division, where it is now elevated, revered and presented as a nostalgic art form that conveys an ingenious past. Music scholars of the twenty-first century have applied numerous definitions to this perio

Racial Sameness and Racial Difference

Paul Jobling

Source: Advertising Menswear. Masculinity and Fashion in the British Media since 1945, 2014, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

Trendsetting African American Designers

Valerie L. Giddings and Geraldine Ray

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

African Americans have been an integral part of the apparel industry since before the Civil War, serving as dressmakers for prominent members of society. One of the first well-known African American fashion designers was Ann Lowe, who designed Jacqueline Kennedy’s bridal gown. Since the 1950s a number of innovative and trendy African American designers have made an impact on the apparel industry. African American designers have influenced fashions ranging from sportswear to eveningwear and have c

Labels of Nazi Concentration Camps: The Star of David, Badges, and Markings of Those Persecuted by the Nazi Regime, 1933–1945

Mark Gudgel

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. West Europe, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Today the order was issued that from now on Jews have to wear a yellow star-shaped patch. The order tells exactly how big the star patch must be, and that it must be sewn on every outer garment, jacket or coat. When grandma heard this, she started acting up again, and we called the doctor. He gave her an injection. She is asleep now.Eva Heyman, 31 March 1944Like 1.2 million others, most of them Jews like herself, thirteen-year-old Eva Heyman would eventually perish in Auschwitz, a victim of the N

The Nazi Aesthetic in Fashion

Laura Klosterman Kidd

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Adolf Hitler and the Nazi regime influence many aspects of popular culture, including fashion. The Nazi aesthetic is an artistic and ideological style created by Adolph Hitler, which characterizes the idealization of the male human form, violence, the heroic ideal, and Aryan mythology. This style was critical in the design of the Nazi machine, especially architectural and transportation design, the visual arts, politics, and the propaganda of the Third Reich. Less well documented has been the use

Zoot Suit

Eduardo Pagán

Source: The Berg Companion to Fashion, 2010, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

Trinidad in the Nineteenth Century

Dominique Heyse-Moore

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Latin America and the Caribbean, 2005, Berg Fashion Library

Encyclopedia entry

The nineteenth century saw great change on the island of Trinidad, particularly the end of slavery and the arrival of many groups of people from across the world. People from many parts of Africa, Europe, Asia, and other parts of the Americas (and their descendants) all lived there. There are many clear distinctions between the ways that different social and ethnic groups dressed; yet, these groups also began to influence each other’s dress and adapted to their new environment. Unfortunately, ver

Scouts, Guides, and the Fashioning of Empire, 1919–39

Tammy M. Proctor

Source: Fashioning the Body Politic. Dress, Gender, Citizenship, 2002, Berg Fashion Library

Book chapter

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