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The Fall and Rise of Erotic Lingerie

Dana Wilson-Kovacs

Source: Dressed to Impress. Looking the Part 2011

Book chapter

The ways in which the body is packaged and visually exhibited are an essential part of consumerism. With a tradition that can be traced back to the eve of modern times, consumerism cannot fully account for the unprecedented attention surrounding the clothing of the body, and the multitude of codes, readings and interpretations accompanying its display. The cultural practices that define the body influence its representations and contemporary ideas of femininity and masculinity. These ideas are re

Fashion under Socialism

Djurdja Bartlett

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus 2010

Encyclopedia entry

The relationship between dress and Socialism started in Soviet Russia following the 1917 Communist Revolution. When Soviet-style Socialism was introduced in East Europe in 1948, dress became an important ideological and practical issue in the countries under Soviet political control. However, the styles of garments, and the discourses in which they were embedded, were not homogeneous in the Soviet Union and the East European countries during the seventy-two years of Communist rule. Both similarit

Gay, Lesbian, Bisexual, and Transgendered Persons

Andrew Reilly

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. The United States and Canada 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Reliable information about dress in the lesbian, gay, bisexual, or transgendered (LGBT) community has become available only recently. For many years negative attitudes held by much of the non-LGBT population resulted in beliefs and stereotypes that were often superficial and inaccurate. Research into the dress of members of the LGBT community is now providing a more detailed and nuanced view of the subject. When a person “comes out” or acknowledges an LGBT identity, it is often a mixed blessing;

Research Approaches

Lise Skov and Marie Riegels Melchior

Source: Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion. Global Perspectives 2010

Encyclopedia entry

Dress and fashion are rich and varied fields of study. Some scholars refer to them as “hybrid subjects” because they bring together different conceptual frameworks and disciplinary approaches, including those from anthropology, art history, cultural studies, design studies, economics, history, home economics (in the early twenty-first century more likely to be known as “family and consumer studies” or “human ecology”), literature, semiotics, sociology, visual culture, and business studies. Invari

Does Fashion Need a Theory?

Ingrid Loschek

Source: When Clothes Become Fashion. Design and Innovation Systems 2009

Book chapter

What do Marcel Duchamp’s Urinoir, which he interpreted as the art object Fountain in 1917, and a dress full of holes that Julien McDonald created, which he defined as a lace dress in 1997, have in common? Neither work ‘functions’ without the underlying tension between what is visible and the statement made about it. In 1917, Duchamp submitted the urinal as an artwork for the annual exhibition of the Society of Independent Artists in New York. His claim was that the context—the art exhibition, the

When Is Fashion?

Ingrid Loschek

Source: When Clothes Become Fashion. Design and Innovation Systems 2009

Book chapter

Due to the creative and social definition of fashion, it is affirmed as ambivalent. The following, therefore, are referred to as fashion:

Signs of Bliss in Textures and Textiles

Dagmar Venohr

Source: Fashion in Fiction. Text and Clothing in Literature, Film, and Television 2009

Book chapter

The Upward Training of the Body from the Age of Chivalry to Courtly Civility

Georges Vigarello

Source: Classic and Modern Writings on Fashion 2nd Edition 2009

Book chapter

From the Middle Ages on, every failure of physical uprightness has been attributed to two main categories: the stigma of deformity, sanctioned by the attention given to strength and aesthetic qualities, and the lack of the proper deportment prescribed mainly by socialized ethics. In both cases, however, medieval comments were unpolished and hasty, even weak compared with those which would be made in the sixteenth century. The strongest and most valiant knight was lost if disabled – “he falls to t

Space Age Fashion

Suzanne Baldaia

Source: Twentieth-Century American Fashion 2008

Book chapter

Editors’ Introduction: During the 1960s, America exploded with political and social protest. The civil rights movement, dissent over the American involvement in Vietnam, and women’s rights were just some of the factors that resulted in the wholesale rejection of the status quo. The old rules fell by the wayside for clothing too. Designers began creating pants suits for women to wear for formal occasions. Men broke out of their gray flannel suits and became peacocks. British rock groups, inspired

Dress, Language and Communication

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Wearing Black

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Mass Fashion: The Role of Fashion in Music

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Time

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Fashion Intertexts

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Objects

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Dress and Social Identity

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Style and Styles between Fashion and the Grotesque

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Taste between Common Sense and Received Meaning

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Everyday Models

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

The Face and the Gaze

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Degree Zero of Fashion and the Body: The Model, the Nude and the Doll

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Intertextual Strategies and Contemporary Mythology

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Fashion and Cinema

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Introduction

Patrizia Calefato

English translation by Lisa Adams

Source: The Clothed Body 2004

Book chapter

Roland Barthes and the End of the Nineteenth Century

Michael Carter

Source: Fashion Classics from Carlyle to Barthes 2003

Book chapter

Fashion seems to possess two durations.

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